Comments by "John Burns" (@johnburns4017) on "The US electrical system is not 120V" video.
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The comments on UK Ring Circuits (sometimes called Ring Mains) for socket outlets shows great ignorance. Plug-in portable domestic appliances in the UK cannot draw more than 13A (approx 3kW) as the plug has a maximum of a 13A fuse - can be less right down to 1A, depending on the appliance. Subsequently washing machines, dishwashers, etc are limited to 13A - most draw far less. The rings were designed during WW2 anticipating the post war construction boom, being limited to 32A on the ring. A ring takes less cable than a number of radials and less breakers at the main panel. One ring can replace four or five radial circuits.
The 13A fuse in the plug is specifically designed for rings. In the UK you do not have to use rings, nothing says you have to. Many install radials, but the appliance off the ring is still limited to the 13A plug. If you say want a 16A appliance (usually brought in by an individual), it has to be a permanently fixed, not using a plug. A ring also can be installed in any country.
One down side of a ring is that if the two cables forming the ring on the rear of a socket become loose, as the screws loosen over time (expansion-contraction). The current may be sent predominately down one cable (one side of the ring) with a max rating of 27A on a 32A ring circuit. The use of push in Wago service free, screwless connectors eliminates this problem, making rings even more attractive. Germany now is selling sockets that have push in connectors behind - expected in the UK soon. This means that apart from the main panel's breakers, no screwed wire connections are used. Many electrical fires are because of loose connections.
Rings are only generally feasible when the plugs and spurs off them used have fuses. In the UK the plugs ensures rings are safe.
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@billelkins994 wrote:
"In recent years the British standard for new ring installations requires a wire size equivalent to a radial run so the ring's big advantage of using smaller wire is no more."
Nonsense, you made that up.
Many clearly do not understand what a final ring circuit is. The ultimate system is to have a radial circuit to each socket outlet on its own fuse at the main panel - the optimum solution of course. This means you will need a very large expensive main panel and lots of fuses/MCBs (one for each socket) in the main panel. Impractical of course.
🎊🎈 BINGO 🎊🎈
A ring gives this by distributing the main panel around the house via a ring cable, distributing the fuses from the main panel around the building to each socket. The ring is a busbar. This saves the vast expense of a plethora of radial cables back to the main panel and also a plethora of expensive fuses/MCB's/RCBO/AFDDs at a very large expensive main panel and expensive labour to install.
a) A ring uses less cable and gives a longer route.
b) No limit to sockets on the ring, but total is limited to typically 32A.
c) A ring uses less copper for a given load/area.
d) Rings rarely have voltage drop as it is fed from both ends.
e) Rings have lower impedance, less volt drop is less waste! They are more efficient.
f) No single point of failure for the protective earth.
g) If you are covering all rooms in one floor then a ring can do it.
h) An appliance and its flexible cable may have a fuse sized to its rating inside its plug.
1. Ring final 2.5mm cable, 32A B-curve MCB, length 106m on TN-C-S.
2. Ring final 4mm cable, 32A B-curve MCB, length 171m.
3. Radial final 2.5mm cable, 25A B-curve MCB, length 33m.
4. Radial final circuit, 4mm cable, 32A B-curve MCB, length 43m.
If a ring is in 4mm cable protected by a 32A MCB/RCBO, then no problems if the cable is broken - which is a very rare thing. The ring can be partially 4mm to heavy current appliance sockets and 2.5mm for the rest
The ring final circuit is safe, simple, and highly effective after 80 years of use. The introduction of MCBs/RCBOs/RCDs/AFDDs, and Wagos on the ring, has made the ring even safer.
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