Comments by "Comm0ut" (@Comm0ut) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. I carry an ammo can or two for my loose tools and have a variety of sizes. Ammo cans are gasketed tough storage and work a treat.
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  2. I have a variety of Tektons as does my bro. We use them hard and often in self-service salvage yards and like them. Both of us ran and outfitted USAF toolrooms and have decades of experience with a wide and always growing variety of tools for our personal shops; I would buy anything Tekton makes as they're good value and take abuse well.
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  3. However a dying battery can overload a charging system especially when it has a shorted cell. As a motorcycle mechanic (where batteries tend to be undersized for obvious reasons) I've seen that fairly often. I load test my batteries (load testers are cheap being basically a resistance wire, switch and meter) and marginal ones get recycled. Batteries are expensive but charging system parts are brutal and regulators/alternators never fail at a convenient time.
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  4.  @ProjectFarm  Make the test even more interesting with aluminum pipe wrenches. Most ferrous handled wrenches can take more abuse than is reasonable but alloy wrenches are far easier to work with overhead and for people smaller than my 6'2"/220lb self.
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  5. This is one of the special channels where users willingly accept increasingly clickbaity wording because we want to see Project Farm make even more money for services rendered. That is real status. BTW since there is a farm in Project Farm that's an opportunity to show your personal preferences in tools for the many common repair and maintenance jobs.
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  6. The drill chuck attachment is really best for turning the angle grinder into an angle die grinder. Welders have been making those for years, self-included.
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  7.  @despectablebosshandlemantle  That would be an absurdly niche, highly inefficient and rather useless conversion vs. running a much lighter less complex petrol-engined scooter in the first place.
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  8. A good test of lineman pliers is what I used them for when running a welding school toolroom. We cut TIG filler in half before handing it out (consumables are costly so they were rationed) and that meant hundreds of cuts through 3/32 and 1/8 stainless and carbon TIG wire. While individuals could cut by hand no way was I getting carpal tunnel so I tack welded a Klein lineman plier to some plate and clamped that to the bench. I slid some stainless tubing over the other handle for leverage. I used that Klein for months before the contract ended and I moved on. It's still there years later. Lineman pliers kind of suck as pliers but do well as cutters. The models with splice crimpers on the inboard side of the jaws are much handier than the plain style.
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  9. False choice fallacy there. Replacing sets is silly so most machinists buy bulk packs of the sizes we use most. For example I buy cobalt alloy (I drill mostly steel) five and ten packs especially smaller sizes used for pilot holes. Sharpeners pay off on large, expensive bits. The failure modes of little bits (snapping, annealing destroying the tip) don't lend themselves to sharpening.
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  10. I use pantograph jacks by driving the hex head variety with my impact driver. Light, portable and for jacks like that Torin I cut off the loop and weld on a socket. I collect all the free jacks I can score and have about ten with various top plates welded on like channel iron. Now my big floor jack gets used maybe twice a year. Torin should sell theirs with a hex head.
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  11.  @CheeseMiser  Just buy and inverter like I did and your truck becomes your power source. Great for emergencies and camping too, it's a VERY old idea. I have several inverters in various sizes.
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  12. For those not familiar, angle grinders in welding use often work way harder than suits even good cordless tools. Since welders have power one way or another corded tools are not limiting.
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  13.  @tonysheerness2427  Why am I leaving a tool for 50 years instead of making it pay off? I also have 50 years to solve any battery problems or replace the thing when it like all tools is expended. Serious use wears out corded, cordless and pneumatic tools. I have all three types in abundance because my tools exist to serve my convenience and be productive.
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  14. Chemical "sameness" could be precisely determined by spectrometry tests. Spectrometry has been key to oil analysis for many decades. Similar performance however close doesn't make the oil analysis the same. Spectrometric lubricant analysis is affordable should you wish to use in for future videos.
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  15. How do scientists evaluate fuels? It's fun to roll ones own tests but how do the professionals do it and what might be learned from them?
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  16. One Diablo Auto Dismantling blade will cut the nose and frame rails off a wrecked Silverado or Tahoe. I harvest LS engines and the local pullapart also issues Diablos to their workers (who have to sign for them, they don't for cheaper blades!). Freud-Diablo carbide blades are more money but even better and great in particular for tire carcasses (NOT beads, I use a diamond grit Lenox angle grinde wheel for those).
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  17. How about an electrical tool review with similar goals covering crimpers, strippers etc and a review of both sleeved and bare crimp terminals? There is some great competition between tool makers and a variety of tools viewers would enjoy learning more about.
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  18. Noobs should avoid buying a 4-1/2" grinder for their first since a 6" takes the same attachments and runs the wonderful 6" thin kerf cutting discs. I buy those by the box online but your local welding supply will have them. Their reach and edge speed are so worth it I mod my 4-1/2" guards to 6" by cutting and welding or replacing the guard with one from a larger grinder. The 6" diamond grit discs are excellent too, just be reasonably gentle with the grinder when cutting.
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  19. I POR'ed a sand blasted truck frame before life intervened and it sat outdoors since the mid oughts. Only minor rust were I didn't coat it thick enough. POR rules.
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  20. You are correct! Weak batteries fry motors and solenoid contacts. I don't do it (mechanic since the later '70s, jets to chainsaws and more).
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  21. One problem is their necks are all SHORT. The only decent SLENDER, NARROW angle head in the industry is on the not particularly durable Hercules (the motors get weak over time). If any manufacturers read this how about selling LONG REACH angle head impacts for mechanics who need them for engine and transmission R&I which are very, very common tasks. I take my Hercules to salvage yards hunting LS engines and 4L80E transmissions where it's outstanding but my wallet is waiting for a more powerful alternative. The point of an angle head is to get the damn motor out of the way and a short neck doesn't do that nearly as well as a long neck.
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  22. Early fuels were so varied the T Model Ford had manually adjustable spark advance.
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  23. Destruction tests should ALWAYS be included because mechanics use tools to get the job done compared to which tool survival is secondary. A screwdriver example is forcing a stubby against a fastener with a pry bar then turning it by visegrip which I and others have done to remove aircraft panel screws in tight locations. Automotive engine bays see all sorts of unconventional fastener removal out of necessity with modern engine compartments being quite cramped and awkward.
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  24. If your tire is low or flat, jack the wheel BEFORE inflating so the load on the compressor is reduced! That way you're not fighting the vehicle all the way up.
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  25. Used quality tools make things like Snap-on and Proto flare nut wrenches affordable. Hydraulic nuts and fittings are generally much more expensive than generic hardware and having to replace a line because the nut was damaged wastes time and lots more money. That makes quality flare nut wrenches a bargain. Many lines and hoses are unobtainable and must be custom made by local hydraulic shops. When a shop rate is sixty dollars an hour plus parts the expensive wrench becomes dirt cheap. As for Crapsman the person who murdered Sears is to blame for its downfall. The damage Eddie Lampert did was grotesque.
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  26. Heaters are for comfort and preventing freeze damage to home pipes. CLOTHING and sleeping bags are for survival. That means more than one pair of good boots (how about a rubber boot test since those are common on farms and better than leather to keep feet dry) , multiple pairs of good wool socks, a parka (still have my USAF parka and pants which I Scotchgard heavily) and multiple pairs of quality cold weather gloves (I often use stick welding gloves since I get spares in advance as gloves are consumable).
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  27. Ask whoever told you that for a scientific citation. The mechanic world is full of old Bubba tales. Octane is a measure of fuel's ability to resist knock.
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  28. Rolled steel often has hard areas in an otherwise easy to drill piece which annoys many fabricators. If you want to make all samples consistent a hardness test next to your drilling location would ensure repeatability.
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  29. Many small engine carbs are cast from ZINC alloys which corrode more easily than aluminum. I finally did the smart thing when storing my carbed trucks. I unbolt the carb, bolt on an engine lift plate to seal the intake, turn the carb upside down, let dry then store safely in a sealed ammo can indoors.
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  30. I gave away my jack stands many years ago and use wooden cribbing and bare rims instead. Horizontal rims work on sand and dirt (the reason self-service salvage yards use them) and can be nested small into large for tall trucks etc. Wooden cribbing is also unlikely to tip and doesn't crush (the USAF uses cribbing to store 2000lb bombs at deployed locations because it works). Cribbing is less likely to slide than the ram of any stand and done right no ordinary human can push the vehicle over. I let my ~2ft long 6x6 and 4x4 cribbing marinate in used engine oil because I store them outdoors.
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  31. Next how about a comparison of CARB CLEANING DIP both commercial and classic alternatives like undiluted Pine-Sol, Simple Green, lemon juice and more. INCLUDE INDUSTRIAL CARBON REMOVERS. It will be fun.
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  32. I like the testing to failure because IRL tools get used for what the task requires and that task is more important than tool survival. Keep in mind quality and variety have no downside. Tool prices are modest while someone else's labor is expensive. I put a basic tool kit in each of my vehicles because convenience is worth it. Avoiding one tow buys your tools and over time that really pays off (for example I had surprise alternator death on the road, limped in with aid of my Clore 660 jump pack then replaced alternator and belt (I always do belts then the removed belt if sound goes under the seat) and toddled off happy. When one requires a specialty belt tensioner wrench I leave it in the truck too because belt failures rarely happen at convenient locations.
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  33. Heaters are for comfort not survival unless you fail at clothing. Just a reminder since there is (Texas proved it) always someone who resents planning then dies of hypothermia because they were too stupid to acquire the cheapest warmth there is, clothing.
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  34. A superb stand used in the (many) thousands by self-service and other salvage yards is made of two steel rims. Lay one flat, place the other vertically inside the cup formed by the first then firmly tack weld (for handling convenience, the welds are not weight bearing) then repeat for as many as you desire. They're especially good for trucks and farm equipment. Project Farm's carbide recip saw blade reviews are why I just bought Freud carbide blades to cut off about 20 tire carcasses to make a batch (it was time to clean my back yard....) and the first blade is still in good condition with only modest wear.
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  35. Better cite specific company assertions regarding specific chemical additives because generalizing is often inaccurate. Who is doing the "supposing" and based on what empiric evidence?
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  36. Jumper cables are normally used from RUNNING vehicles so their battery is not run down disabling both. Jumper Cable clamp connections have less conductor interface. It's typical to jump off running vehicles for that reason (and other conductivity issues. Other than motorbikes which should not be jumped from a running car lest the motorcycle regulator be damaged it would be odd to see someone jumping off a non-running vehicle.
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  37. In that case doing what I do and owning a serious manual puller gives you a very useful tool that's portable and more versatile than a powered winch (I also have three Ramsey industrial winches) Wyeth-Scott and Tirfor are worth a look. I have three Wyeth-Scotts and will take all I can score used (parts are available) but would also do that with Tirfor.
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  38. EDIT: In futue it would be useful to have testing advice from engineers who work in the industry and they should be easy to find for the asking since Project Farm has a wide audence. While this is "fun" it's not really science so people seriously interested should be reading Society of Automotive Engineers papers because when it comes to things that appear simple the reality of fuels and engineering is quite complex. SAE octane measurement is interesting stuff but it should be made clear what octane IS NOT. Much love for Project Farm but this particular episode is an example of presumed competence exceeding layperson expertise. Octane is not a matter of "fuel efficiency" nor horsepower IN ENGINES NOT OPTIMIZED BY DESIGN OR TUNING to exploit it. WWII fighter recip engines are an example where high octane fuels permitted optimization permitting higher HP outputs Axis designers were unable to match not due to lack of talent but due to poor fuels. The purpose of octane is DETONATION RESISTANCE which permits higher compression. On vehicles designed for non-ethanol fuel the only point in using higher octane ETHANOL FREE fuel is being kind to your fuel system, for example on vintage engines like my old Nortons. A nice thing about carbs is I can temporarily richen them to use fecal petrol then readjust after fueling with the good stuff. Higher octane on any system not designed for it is mostly pointless. For example the worst modern fuel is often superior to mid-last century fuels which engine ran very low compression ratios to use. Go further back and it's overkill for a T Model or A Model Ford.
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  39. Since getting angle grinders with flap discs I rarely use my multiple bench grinders. Two are old Wens and excellent machines. The other tools my angle grinders made mostly obsolete were my abrasive chop saws. If you're not into heavy DIY you may be better off not getting a bench grinder at all and I would not consider it urgent. My angle grinders with appropriate flap abrasives and thin kerf cutting discs get near daily use.
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  40. If you need a serious cord buy some SOOW cable and quality connectors as contractors do for their cords.
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  41.  @ProjectFarm  You'd likely fun making and using the 240V/120V combo cords that allows. Look over "RV" power cords, receptacles and power boxes to see what suits your desires. For example a 100ft (or two 50ft for less to carry at once) cord can power a 240V welder and provide 120V for heavy duty power tools.
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  42. I've gotten great use from both Lenox and Diablo blades. I suggest cutting scrap truck tire wire beads and other sections for a really brutal test because rubber doesn't shed heat like metal. Cutting truck frame sections as when harvesting engines at self-service and other salvage yards is another place a great recip blade more than pays for itself. It's increasingly common to cut off tires with a recip saw for easy rim handling in subsequent bead breaking, and if a bead is loose it's quick to support it with a tire iron then cut the bead vs. wrasslin' the tire onto a tire machine. I learnt the trick from a big rig tire shop and use it at my home shop freeing up rims now that many recycle centers won't take mounted tires.
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  43. Industrial grade copper and high temp nickel anti-seize work a treat. I've torn down engines I built over 30 years ago with zero problems because I anti-seized all the external hardware. That watery Permatex is mostly decorative as it doesn't last many years. I've used it but it's not for the long haul (which is hard to simulate). I use Jet Lube copper but there are many equivalents. How about an INDUSTRIAL/AEROSPACE anti-seize shootout? BTW throw in Milk of Magnesia for hot work which was famously specified on aircraft engine hot sections. Some viewer might have an old GEK that wasn't shredded (if you fixed fighters for a living that had GE engines you know of the GEK) and could post a pic. IIRC Airbus had it in their tech data too but I didn't work those. Briggs and Stratton quit making their lead anti-seize but others still sell similar to industry. It was a great valve guide/stem lube before the oxygen sensor era. "Briggs & Stratton Valve Guide Lubricant & Anti-Seize Compound 93963" is still easy to find. WEAR GLOVES and discard any contaminated rags etc.
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  44. Don't throw away all your old crappy plastic cans. I saw the tops off with a zip disk then use them as solvent-proof cleaning and storage tubs since they're tougher by far than common tubs which tend brittle.
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  45. Outstanding video! It should be remembered the (aftermarket) electronics industry offshore does not know what a quality ethos even IS, let alone having one. It's a race to the bottom. OTOH I still have a perfectly good Milwaukee M28 battery from 2011.
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  46. @Cerbirt Aircraft generators and hydraulic pumps have input shafts designed with similar shear points to protect the gear box driving them.
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  47. I've done that and more for decades. I'm a mechanic and have assembled several trucks for self and the lot where I worked from wrecks. It's not difficult if you pick a good RUST FREE vehicle. Early 2000s and prior trucks are nearly all practical to drive indefinitely including full rebuilds axle to axle if you do it yourself and it's quite common.
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  48. I've used Lucas Transmission Fix on many vehicles and it gets a good bit more life out of most worn automatics. What it does not do of course is fix broken parts but slipping and slow shifting reflect wear not breakage in most cases.
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  49. I gave my ramps and jack stands away many years ago. I wrench all the time and have no use for them because I use wooden cribbing (see first responder cribbing videos etc) and scrap aluminum rims where useful (trucks etc). Horizontal rims work even on dirt (thousands of salvage yard vehicles are supported on old rims) and with some simple cribbing can support much more than most street vehicles weigh. I can afford to buy or fab any ramps I care to but they offer me no advantages over cribbing which is much safer and doesn't risk low bumper covers striking a ramp or dragging when backed off.
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  50. If you can score one used a Kurt style milling machine vise doesn't need a mill to spoil you, and rebuild kits are available.
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