Comments by "Comm0ut" (@Comm0ut) on "FordTechMakuloco" channel.

  1.  @mikelemoine4267  Preach! Gullible aspirational chumps buy used German cars in 2022. The glory years of mechanical injection Mercedes diesels (and Airhead BMW motorbikes) are long gone. I worked at a used car lot where we never bought them at auction and if we got 'em as a trade they went to salvage.
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  2. Suggest that to Fel-Pro. That could work well for them.
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  3. A1 series single cam VW four bangers easily go over 400K like my '81 Scirocco. Manufacturers only care (slightly) about getting past warranty today.
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  4.  @tcmtech7515  Word! The only people worth listening to are experienced mechanics so I ask on forums. I don't buy new trucks like most mechanics because it's better to let rich folks beta test.
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  5. That just puts off failure since no waterbased coolant mix will remain uncontaminated over time. That tells me never to buy one.
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  6. The public are increasingly tech-illiterate (the computer age didn't really change automotive literacy from the era of points and carbs when I started wrenching) and fail to demand anything more than Shiny Features. They deserve everything that chosen ignorance and passivity gets them. They CHOSE TO REWARD unaffordable feature-bloat and that's exactly what they got. Vehicle theft will be even more profitable.
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  7. Frame swaps are surprisingly easy to DIY. I did many on SUV and pickups at my last job with a used car lot. If that truck were my problem to fix I'd harvest or buy a clean salvage frame or chassis from out of state. Our order of operation was pull the cab and bed, then crossload whatever we were saving from the damaged frame to the donor, then reinstall cab and bed.
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  8. A metric Gearwrench set is gold for these jobs. That utterly retarded double ended stud used for the ground cable is never reinstalled on my Fords. I make a fresh ground cable from battery to an alternator bolt (old cables can age internally including corrosion one doesn't see) which is both electrically sound and a breeze to connect and disconnect. Every threaded electrical connection gets a dab on silicone dielectric AKA "spark plug boot" grease. If a starter is known bad and not being reinstalled and the cable nuts to the solenoid are stuck I shatter the plastic cap with a long punch, remove the starter then disconnect the cable from the studs by holding then with visegrips. That makes them easy to remove and solenoids are not reused by rebuilders so no core issues either.
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  9. I leave the tie rods connected if not replacing then and support the spindle on whatever is handy like an upside-down bucket or wooden blocks since they swing forward and out of the way. On a lift a motorcycle tiedown holds them nicely.
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  10.  @tcmtech7515  That's why my Millers are old transformer machines that cost less than a new circuit board for anything else. I scored a 340AB/P for $250 because the seller thought it was three phase only. Over 500A out means I'll never max it and the arc is sweet. It's the size of a fridge and weighs ~1200lbs but well worth it. The 330AB/Ps and the rebadged Miller Airco versions kick ass too.
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  11. Failure that early is absurd and the reason I only buy proven drivetrains a few years into a production run.
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