Youtube comments of Engineering Explained (@EngineeringExplained).
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*Important Update!* I asked MotorTrend for their 1/8th mile time for the 2023 Porsche 911 Carrera T (7MT). They confirmed it at 8.0 seconds and 93.1 mph. That's FASTER than the Tesla towing a 911 did it (~8.25s), and ~0.38 seconds FASTER than the Porsche 911 alone did it in Tesla's video. This implies the 911 beats the Cybertruck (while towing) in the 1/8th, as well. So... what's up with the 911's slow time in the video?
Worth repeating - 911 T is the slowest current gen hard top 911, so it's the best one to use as reference against the video.
*Important Update 2!* Cybertruck's lead engineer, Wes Morrill, has tweeted additional information: "Love the detailed breakdown @jasonfenske13 - well done! One underlying assumption, which is what any reasonable engineer would assume: the video showed was the best run. It was not. But it was the most dramatic finish. So "why didn't we do a full 1/4mi?" The fastest 1/8mi CT hit while towing on the day was 7.808s at 88mph and the trailer tires were only rated to 80mph so we opted to call it a day before someone got hurt. Our simulations showed the full 1/4 mi race would be close but with the same net result, so no need to risk it. We also had some room to further lightweight the trailer but didn't need to. I'm glad this is so unbelievable that people care to do this analysis." https://x.com/wmorrill3/status/1746266437088645551?s=20
*Edit 1:* Some folks have issue with the assumption of linear acceleration for the remaining 1/8th mile. Let's talk about it!
First off, that's a very fair thing to have issue with. My intention was not to provide an exact measurement of the 1/4 mile time, but rather to show that it is not as close to 12.3 sec as it may seem in the first half of the assessment. Hence, I used a "~" when showing the "final" quarter mile time, though I should have been more clear about this. There absolutely won't be linear acceleration, so there is some play with this number. However, let's use the Cybertruck alone as an example since we have all the numbers. 99 mph at the 1/8th, and 119 mph at the 1/4. We know it did this in 4.06 seconds. Using linear acceleration to guesstimate the time required, you would get 4.13 seconds (0.125 mi / 109 mph avg speed * 3600s/hr = 4.128 seconds). 4.06 and 4.13 are pretty close (both rounding to 4.1 seconds). Using this methodology won't give you an exact answer, it's just closer to reality than saying "it can't do it in 12.3 seconds, the end." Also, this is assuming the towing Cybertruck maintains strong acceleration above 88 mph, a challenging feat when the aerodynamic drag of both cars is going to be very significant. This little tid-bit at the end was meant as a "let's get closer to the real number" so we can confidently say it would or would not win in the 1/4 mile, because 12.2 vs 12.3 looks like it could be a toss up, whereas in reality the gap is more meaningful. Hope this info helps!
*Edit 2:* Some folks wanted to know where 24 FPS (frames per second) came from.
24 FPS is a very common speed for cinema & pro shoots in North America. You can easily download the Tesla video and check for yourself. However, for those who want to see proof, I've uploaded a video so you can see the frames counted: https://x.com/jasonfenske13/status/1746202913712836968?s=20
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*IMPORTANT NOTE* This video was filmed prior to my article being published in Road & Track (link below). Upon release of the article, Ford reached out with additional information. They said the truck was traveling at 4.5 mph when it crossed 1,000 ft. From this, we can calculate power required:
1. We want to know how much power it takes to move 1.25 million pounds at a speed of 4.5 mph in just 1,000 ft.
2. We’re going to assume the truck is accelerating for those entire 1,000 ft, and reaches 4.5 mph right when it crosses the 1,000 ft. line.
3. Power = Work / Time. If we calculate work & time, we determine power.
4. Time can be calculated based on average speed over 1,000 ft. Top speed 4.5 mph, starting at 0 mph. Average 2.25 mph. 2.25 mph = 3.3 ft/s. 1000 ft / 3.3 ft/s = 303 seconds (5 minutes, 3 seconds, to go from 0 to 4.5 mph). T = 303 sec.
5. Work = change in kinetic energy. We start at 0, so kinetic energy is zero. All we need to know is final kinetic energy. Kinetic energy is equal to one-half mass times velocity squared (k=0.5mv^2). 12.5M lb = 566,990 kg. 4.5 mph = 2.01 m/s. KE = (0.5)*(566,990 kg)*(2.01168 m/s)^2 = 1,147,263.561 N-m.
6. Plug in variables to Power equation. Power = Work/Time. P = (1,147,263.561 N-m)/(303 seconds) = 3.786 kW or ~ 5 Horsepower.
7. It’s important to note that 5 HP is the power required to to accelerate this mass assuming zero losses. Heat, friction, aerodynamics, etc. There are also smaller assumptions like not accelerating any rotational masses (the train has wheels, etc). A sanity check using the same math shows a 3,300 lb car requires 240 HP to go 0-60 in 3.0 seconds. We know it’s generally double that in the real world. Even giving the truck a factor of 10 advantage, 50 HP is nothing crazy.
8. The train is very heavy, this is the impressive part. Unfortunately, the duration is very long (5 minutes), and the speed is very low (5 mph). Both time and speed variables work heavily against the power required. If the train were to accelerate to 60 mph in the same 1,000 ft distance, it would take 12,000 HP without losses. Quite a difference, just from changing speed!
Road & Track article covering the stunt:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/a28506476/ford-electric-f150-train-tow-physics-explained/
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Some additional things to think about! First off, obviously you should never downshift if it means exceeding your engine's redline. Also, skipping gears will put an additional strain on your synchronizers, especially for downshifts. Not that double-clutching is required these days (though if done properly, it will save your synchros), but it can help for getting into first gear if you're moving. If you're traveling at say 15 mph/25km/h, and want to be in first, generally the transmission will prevent you from doing so. Let the clutch out, pop the revs up, then clutch in and shift to first - this will often work. Generally not necessary for getting into other gears, again, that's why synchros exist is to ease and allow for that transition. Hope everyone's having a great day!
Consider following on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
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I spoke with Ford Engineers about this regarding GT500: You'll notice the GT500 takes a similar strategy to the new Mustang GT manual gearing. It has 7 gears, but 5, 6, and 7 are incredibly tall. Ford told me this was in balancing for street, track, and drag performance (taller gears for street use, highway cruising). I was also disappointed to hear from Ford engineering (about consumers) that there have been complaints about GT350 gearing, and that people want a shorter top (6th) gear, because the top gear doesn't have any acceleration. No kidding, it's for the highway! Again, GT350 follows the old gearing strategy, which IMO is best. People, if you want to accelerate, put the car in the right gear for it! If you don't want to shift gears, I hear they make transmissions that fit your needs. :)
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My largest skepticism currently is Tesla Semi purchase price: we don't know what it is exactly but reports of $180k for the 500 mi range. If that's true, and it's actually a 1000kWh pack, even at a very good $100/kWh battery price, that means the battery alone for the Semi would cost Tesla $100k (makes the truck the deal of the century). You still need the rest of the truck, and you still need profit (theoretically). If battery cost is $130/kWh, then you're at $130k just in battery! Considering Model X is priced at $120k, and comes with a 100kWh battery (1/10th!!), it's tough to see how for $60k more you can sell a battery 10x in size, and a much larger truck around it. Pricing, for now, is the biggest challenge I see for Semi.
Edit: Some folks have concerns about the "deceptive marketing" comment. Let's walk through it; I don't make this claim because of Tesla missing timelines. Sometimes that happens (though they still do a terrible job with projecting timelines). I say deceptive because they say things like flying Roadster (doesn't exist), Full Self Driving (yet it's level 2, and costs $15k), 0-60 in under 2 seconds (they still haven't done it), Roadster with 10,000 ft-lbs of torque (never mentioning it's wheel torque, which isn't the standard way of presenting it, making the number about 10x higher). Using some 0-60 with rollout, some without, depending on how they want the car to look (but not sticking to a single method). On the same website (tesla.com/semi) you can watch a video that says it has 4 motors, then scroll down and it says 3 motors. Video says 400 mi charge in 30 minutes (insinuating 80% charge), but on the same website 70% in 30 mins. "7 cents guaranteed!" We'll see. Regardless, many inconsistencies exist. Tesla marketing is vague, we don't even get battery sizes or horsepower in specs anymore. They say the media misrepresents them, yet they have differing numbers on the same website, and no PR department to ask questions to get the right numbers. I stand behind the statement of deceptive marketing, and it's not because they took 3 extra years to deliver the Tesla Semi.
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A lot of folks seem to be focusing on the fact that it's a 20 hour test, rather than the results. Yet at 20 hours it shows significant differences amongst the results. Also, 20 hours at a high load is much more pressure and stress on an engine than what you do commuting, which is nearly constantly at a very low load. This is an accelerated test as far as wear is concerned. If there are discernible differences at 20 hours, you can certainly learn from the study. While many YouTube channels simply offer "word of mouth" advice, that's all too often received well, I find it surprising so many are so concerned with a peer reviewed, with controlled variables, published article in what is perhaps the world's most renown journal of automotive engineering. Skepticism is a good thing, we should always question things. This means also not drawing conclusions that the study does not state. It does not, however, mean that the study is meaningless simply because you perceive 20 hours to be a short duration. It's quite common in the industry to run accelerated benchmark tests in order to predict long term reliability. If you're putting out new engines every couple years, you simply don't have the time to run those engines (and all of the individual components involved) to 200,000 miles to see how well they do, so instead you use harsh, accelerated tests to predict future reliability. Anyways, rant over haha, I hope everyone's having a wonderful day!
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*Let's address the common questions!*
1) Does this mean hybrids aren't reliable? No! Just because something is challenging or problematic, does not mean there aren't solutions to overcome it. Toyota has repeatedly proven hybrids can be insanely reliable, as discussed in the video. Good engineering can overcome real problems. In the car world, it's often thought that "simple = better" but you can have something complex and reliable (Prius), and you can have something simple and unreliable (ahem, you know who they are). There's a lot of fascinating engineering that goes into making these things run reliably.
2) Are the problems overblown? It depends! As mentioned in the video, it's completely scenario dependent on whether you build up water/fuel dilution over time. Modern hybrids will have algorithms to address this as much as possible - with scheduled longer run times to help boil off water. For long distances, you can get temps high enough, consistently enough, to get rid of water/fuel. Even still, versus non-hybrids, you will see lower average temperatures, and short trips can exacerbate this issue (especially if the engine is turning on/off during these trips).
3) How do older hybrids deal with these problems? Many ways! One of the easiest solutions to ensuring you don't have too much oil/fuel dilution is a shorter oil drain interval. Changing the oil is a guaranteed way of getting those fluids out. The more frequently you do this, the less of a challenge it is. Modern engines are calling for longer and longer oil drain intervals - the video discusses a product which is designed to handle these longer intervals reliably.
4) What about electric oil pumps; does that help with start/stop? Sure, in many modern hybrids you have electric oil pumps - this can help provide oil flow prior to re-starting the engine. But not all hybrids have electric oil pumps; plenty (especially older hybrids) have mechanical pumps that only run when the engine is running. When you don't have oil flow, you're reliant on the properties of the oil - what film is left behind, as well as additives (like ZDDP, as discussed) to protect the engine in these scenarios.
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*Important Note!* Production cars vs F1 cars: why are F1 cars more efficient? Especially considering my comments in the video about both being impressive, but operating under different rule sets. Several reasons for F1’s efficiency advantage:
1. Quantity - Formula 1 only needs to make a handful of engines for a season. This allows for an attention to detail that you won’t have when producing engine quantities in the millions for production cars. It’s easy to make one efficient engine. Mass production adds complications.
2. Cost - The cost per engine is vastly greater in Formula 1, allowing for opportunities that you don’t have when you’re selling an entire production car for $30,000. Materials, tolerances, difficult manufacturing designs, etc. Relatively speaking, production car engines are very cheap, which limits the design.
3. Reliability - F1 teams are allowed 3 engines per season without penalties, so an F1 engine only needs to last 7-8 races (plus practice & qualifying), meaning about 1,500 - 2000 miles. When your engine doesn’t need to last as long, you can run it closer to peak efficiency, where knock is more prevalent (think high spark advance, leaner air fuel mixtures). It’s worth sacrificing reliability for performance, because the goal isn’t an engine that lasts for 200,000 miles.
4. Rev-Range - F1 engines have a much more defined use case versus road cars. Road cars operate at many different RPM, in many different engine load scenarios. Trying to develop an engine that is efficient across this wide range of use-cases is very difficult. F1, on the other hand, has a much more narrow focus. Create power at full load as efficiently as possible. This means you can pick a region of the engine where it spends most of its time (say 11k RPM) to maximize efficiency.
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*Important Update* Many have asked if the maximum angle the front wheels can turn is limited at higher speeds, since it uses a shorter ratio. I reached out to Lexus for more information. They said "the amount or angle the wheels of the vehicle can turn left-to-right in a vehicle equipped with Steer by Wire is the same at 5mph and 85mph (they are also the exact same angle values left-to-right as on the traditional EPS steering system vehicles). The changes are in the actuation of that steering rack left-to-right and the variable speed that you reach during that turning function as vehicle speed increases."
I have asked some clarifying questions and will provide updates here once received.
*Edit 1:* Here is the clarification they provided. FYI - it does not match what was stated above.
"RZ with Traditional Steering completes a full lock to the L or R turn in roughly 540°.
RZ with Steer By Wire (version in France) completes a full lock to the L or R turn in roughly 150°. This implies the base ratio is 3.6:1, which that for every 1° of driver input at the steering wheel in a Steer-By-Wire RZ, the wheels on the road would operate equivalent to the driver providing a 3.6° input in a traditional steering (540° system).
This solves the question of low speed ratio, but as we accelerate we reach a point closer to 1:1 or beyond, in this scenario if the steer-by-wire driver only has 150 partitions or input angles that can be sent to the computer, at 1:1 ratio – the Steer By Wire system only has 27% potential of available max steering angle (equivalent to roughly 1/3 of a full-lock turn).
HYPOTHETICALLY SPEAKING FROM HERE ON: As we approach exceptionally high speeds, the ratio could become even greater skewed on Input:Output so 1 degree input could mean 0.2 degree of output for the wheels. That means that for every 5 degrees of steering wheel turn by the driver, the wheels at the road would be turning the equivalent of 1 single degree input in a traditional steering vehicle. This provides the feeling of ultimate precision and fun while driving at high speed because you are truly feeling every decimal partition of steering angle so you can very accurately steer the vehicle where you want it go.
540° & 150° are the angles we know and have experienced. The 3.6:1 ratio is a simple calculation that shows the relationship of those values. We have a confirmation but not a provided data sheet, that at some speed beyond 10mph the ratio begins to skew towards 1:1 or more, so the rest of the values (i.e. 0.2°) are completely made up values but the math proves the concept.
Purely for the case of the argument – let’s say the driver is doing 80mph and at that speed every angle of driver steering wheel input is 0.2 equivalent degree of output at the wheels. If we multiply the 150 degrees of full lock input available to the driver at the steering wheel by the 0.2 degree output at the wheels, our total steering angle would be 30 degrees.
As the driver applies the brakes or accelerates, the algorithm of input/output adjusts thus giving the driver “more access” or “less access” to max steering angle.
5mph: 150° Input by 3.6 Output = 540° “full lock turn” equivalent or 100% of max steering angle available
45mph: 150° Input by 1 Output = 150° equivalent or 27% of max steering angle available
60mph: 150° Input by 0.35 Output = 52.5° or 9.7% of max steering angle available
80mph 150° Input by 0.2 Output = 30° or 5.5% of max steering angle available
This may seem strange to think about, but imagine going 80 mph and without slowing down turn the steering wheel of ANY vehicle 540° to the full lock position…… nobody in their right mind would ever do that because it would undoubtedly cause a serious accident. Having access to truly full lock steering ratio at 80mph is not something anyone ever takes advantage of or is physically capable of doing on a road because as you begin to turn that aggressively at speed, you would completely run out of road surface to drive on before being able to even complete the full lock turn. There is also the high likelihood that if a driver attempted to do a full-lock turn at 80mph, the vehicle would have the possibility to flip over. We know it takes about 2.2 seconds for an average driver to make a 540°. At 80mph, approximately 200 feet are covered in 2 seconds. With the average lane width in the US being 12ft (source: Google Search), it would require a road 16.67 lanes wide to be able to complete a full lock turn (without slowing down at 80mph, if that were even physically possible without disrupting or flipping the vehicle over).
Conclusion: The higher speed one goes in ANY vehicle, traditional steering or Steer By Wire, the less useful max steering angle becomes, if even physically possible to achieve. So the Steer by Wire system mathematically limiting access to max steering angle becomes a non-issue from a drivability or experience standpoint. Having an inherent base ratio of roughly 3.6:1 and (a hypothetical) 0.2:1 at high speeds provides extreme ease of use at low speeds in parking lots or u-turns while providing an exceptionally precise feeling when steering at higher speeds and provides a complete range of differing input:output ratios to match the situationally indefinitely. (The faster you drive, the more precise the steering ratio)."
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The challenge with this kind of video is always that people will translate this to: EVs aren't ready, EVs are too complicated, etc. The purpose of this channel is education at a deeper level than you'd get from an owner's manual. Cars, whether ICE or EV, are extraordinarily complicated. Most people don't think about their ICE car's best practices, and yet they can still last a very long time. The exact same is true for EVs. As mentioned, cycle life of LFP is very good, even under challenging conditions. You don't have to think about it. You can just drive it, and it will last a really, really long time. EVs have much less regular maintenance, you really don't have to think at all to drive these cars. But if you're a dork that's way too curious about cars (that's me), then this is the kinda content that satisfies my curiosity. There are ways to make something that's already going to last a long time, last even longer. There are practices that can dramatically decrease life as well (same with a gas engine, don't hold it at redline, change the oil regularly, etc). My '18 M3P is six years old at this point, still under warranty, and still has great capacity remaining. I also have a new 6-speed coming to the garage soon - stoked to have a manual back in my life! 😎
*Edit 1: Does it even matter?* Many are asking what actual difference does it make between the different strategies, which I should have included. In the study, the worst strategy (75-100%) with the worst variables was at 90% of the original capacity in under 1500 hours of the 2500 hour study. At 1500 hours with the best strategy (about ~800 charge cycles) the capacity was still at 98% (really impressive!). Both of these numbers are fine; 800 charge cycles of a 250mi EV is 200k miles. As you can see, it's still a meaningful difference between the different options. With that said, these are at elevated temperatures, which accelerates degradation, so real world you could expect better results in both cases.
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*Important Note* Lots of questions about the materials for each pad! It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out. Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were "semi-metallic" (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are "ceramic." There's a wide variety of what can be included in pads, regardless of the material stated. Also, material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
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Clarification! There still seems to be confusion about the viscosity decreasing with heat, yet the number is higher, for example 5W-30.
1. This is explained from about 1:05 to 3:05.
2. All motor oils (basically) will decrease in viscosity as they heat up (become thinner).
3. Motor oils will increase (become thicker) in viscosity as they cool (as demonstrated in the video with graduated cylinders).
4. A 0W oil has a lower viscosity than a 10W oil when it is cold (the number is lower).
5. A 40 grade oil is thicker than a 30 grade oil when it is hot.
6. A 10W-30 (as shown at 2:28) will be thicker at cold temperatures, but thinner at high temperatures, versus a 0W-40.
7. The rating is temperature dependent! There is a cold rating, and a hot rating, which comes from tests (shown at 3:17).
8. Even though the number increases as it gets hot (like 5W-30), the viscosity decreases. It means the oil behaves like a 5 grade oil when cold, but a 30 grade oil when hot. How?
9. Viscosity modifiers are molecules that expand as they heat up, which decreases how much thinner the oil gets as it heats up. It still gets thinner, but not as thin as it could get if the viscosity modifiers were not in there. This is what makes it a multi-grade oil. Because it behaves like different oil grades depending on temperature.
10. In summary, a 5W-30 will decrease in viscosity as it is heated, however its hot rating is a thicker grade oil than its cold rating. See plots in video (2:28) to see what this looks like.
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*Additional information!* Something I forgot to mention in the video - obviously, torque is down from the previous generation Z06. Power is ultimately the important figure, because you can make up for torque with aggressive gearing. You can get away with short (high torque) gearing because the engine revs high. New final drive ratio is 5.56:1, previous Z06 was only 2.41:1 (we don't know transmission gears yet). GM engineers say the engine really comes alive above 3,500 RPM. Below 3,000 RPM, not much torque, but part of the reason of keeping the engine large (5.5L is still very big) is so that down low it still has useful grunt.
Edit 1: It's "Helmholtz" resonance not "Hemholtz." Words are hard for me.
Edit 2: Should have mentioned, but two of the three center valves (intake manifold) share a common shaft (so they open/close together). So that gives you four possible combinations (all closed, all open, one open, two open).
Edit 3: At 3:31 I state the naturally aspirated engine will have better air density (for its given pressure). To be clear, the supercharged engine will certainly have a greater air density than the NA engine overall, however it's not as simple as looking at a ratio of the two engines manifold pressure, because the supercharged air will have a higher temperature, reducing oxygen density. Also worth pointing out, it takes power to run superchargers, so some of the additional air going into the supercharged engine is also being used to power the supercharger.
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Thanks for watching my *1000th video!!* Y'all the best. Now, onto a few common questions:
1. Truthfully, looking at the patent, I don't see how it could operate as naturally aspirated (NA); however, they allow a lot of leeway in the patent for how this cycle works (for example: fresh air from the overhead intake valve during the scavenging event, exhaust out the ports in the bottom or top, a combination of intake/exhaust ports at the bottom, etc). NA two-strokes generally use the piston going down to pressurize the air going in, in combination with exhaust scavenging, which doesn't seem to be the way this operates. I think the safest assumption is it will be boosted (super or turbo/e-turbo), to easily force in air, but I didn't want to rule out NA as the patent doesn't explicitly rule it out.
2. Regarding balancing, I kept this discussion fairly short mostly because I truly don't know how it can be done. I spent way too much time drawing out all the different options for a 3-cylinder, and none of them seem great. One idea was lining up the more powerful first stroke with the next cylinder's less powerful stroke, so you always have 1 high power, 1 low power together. But in reality, these can't actually line up (you can get two cylinders line up, but then the next two that fire are offset, then the next two are offset even further - this requires drawing out the sign wave shown in the top of the board to visualize - three times, offset ~360º so peaks align-ish). This also means you have pistons acting with different primary forces at the same time (and technically, different times). Perhaps a balancing shaft can cancel this out (or perhaps an equal and opposite opposing cylinder bank), but the patent makes an I3 seem fine and I don't know how that works out. But again, regardless of all of this, the firing interval will be intermittent and sound quite unique, no matter how you time it. *makes cars sounds to self*
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*Common Question!* Why would a range extender (engine + generator) need to operate at different RPM?
Realistically, the option for a single RPM is there, and as stated in the video, there's likely an RPM that the engine spends the vast majority of its time at. There are reasons, however, why you might want to occasionally run at different RPM. For example:
1) Engine startup. This engine makes peak power at 4500 RPM. If peak power is needed to recharge the battery, you probably don't want to go straight there on a cold engine.
2) Battery charge rate. Batteries are able to charge faster at lower SOC (state of charge), vs higher SOC. This could mean at low battery, the engine output would be greater, and at higher battery SOC, the engine output drops because the max charge rate of the battery is lower.
3) If the engine is capable of high output, it likely exceeds the max charge rate of the battery. For example, the battery (relatively small vs dedicated EVs) is capable of 36 kW fast charging (it's a small battery so this is a normal number, despite sounding low). The rotary engine has a max output of 74 HP (55 kW), thus exceeding the max charge rate, so there are likely times where it runs at lower loads, and times it runs at higher loads, depending on the battery's SOC. So why does the rotary have more power than needed? At times, it is used to not only power the generator, but also to send more power to the driven wheels. If you ask for full torque (floor it), the battery and engine+generator are both sending current to the drive motor, giving you more power. In this state, it would make sense for the engine to be generating max power.
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UPDATE! There was another engine which had variable valve duration (Rover, 1995). I asked Hyundai about this, and from one of their presentations: "Such method, which allows change in valve actuation by altering the rotational speed of cam, is thought to be devised by Mitchell [2, 3]. The Rover first launched the engine to the market in 1995 [4]. The Rover’s VVC (Variable Valve Control) system was applied to 1.8L inline 4-cylinder engine in order to change the intake valve’s timing and duration. VVC system requires four camshafts to drive the intake valve; two of the camshafts are driven by timing belt at the front of the engine, while the other two is driven at the rear of the engine by the exhaust camshaft. Because of such feature, VVC system cannot be used with CVVT simultaneously, impeding the independent control of the valve opening and closing timing."
So in this case, the "world first" is the fact that it is the first production engine to combine CVVT with CVVD, as the Rover mechanism did not allow for variable timing. Thanks for commenting about the Rover engine - fascinating to learn about!
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UPDATE: You can adjust the Forward Collision Warning sensitivity. It's under the AutoPilot menu (which I don't have, probably why I never saw it). Mine was set at "Medium" and was definitely over-reactive. I have set to "Late" now, and will see how it goes. There is also an option to turn it off. So, ignore that complaint, because Tesla accommodates driver preference, wonderful!
UPDATE 2: Things keep getting better! Using the Tesla phone app, you can select the exact battery percentage for charging. Not sure why this isn't the case on the car, but the good news is you can do it with the app - thanks for letting me know!
UPDATE 3: When I bought my car battery coolant interval was every 4 years. This has changed, and is no longer a required service interval. From latest Model 3 owners manual: "Your Battery coolant does not need to be replaced for the life of your vehicle under most circumstances. Brake fluid should be checked every 2 years, replacing if necessary."
If you hope to see more of Bucket the cat, follow on Instagram :) www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained
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*Important Note!* If the engine makes 420 lb-ft, and the e-motor makes 110 lb-ft, why isn't peak torque 530 lb-ft (420 + 110)? Instead, it's 449 lb-ft. This is all about when & where peak torque occurs, and it is different for the engine and the electric motor. At low RPM, before the engine is making it's peak torque, the electric motor can provide its maximum of 110 lb-ft, giving you a huge boost in torque, but at an RPM where the engine can't provide much. As you get to higher RPM, you become more reliant on the engine (rather than the e-motor) for torque, so the peak value is 449 lb-ft. For power, the peak engine power (478 HP) and peak continuous motor power (54 HP) do line up, so you have 478 HP + 54 HP = 532 HP peak total system output (at 6,500 RPM). I should have included this in the video, hope that clears things up!
Edit 1: For clarity at the end regarding does Lambda = 1 mean less power, my response of "no" is in response to the target power Porsche is aiming for. Could running rich mean more power with an aftermarket tune? Absolutely it could! Running rich is a tool of reducing combustion temperatures. This means you can potentially further advance ignition timing, and thus make more power. My statement is simply regarding Porsche's goal for the power output of the unit. The previous unit was already capable of running in the vast majority of use cases at Lambda = 1, yet it wasn't a talking point regarding the "low" output of the engine based on it stats. This segment was largely to address the innaccurate reports of this engine running higher boost, and being larger, and yet only making 5 HP additional, which is not true. The engine is ~20% larger, and runs ~10% less boost, so there's roughly a ~10% power drop relative to airflow. Thus it seems the peak potential is held slightly, but only slightly, not a massive deficit as some outlets are reporting. And the fact that Porsche was already running Lambda = 1 (in most use cases) further solidifies this; they were already capable of it, they just covered up some edge cases with the new strategy on the 3.6L.
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The audio sucks, I know! I’m very sorry about this. As a one man show I always do my best to check focus, lighting, white balance, audio, etc, but sometimes things slip through. In this case my lapel microphone failed to record audio, and I did not find out until editing the footage weeks later. From a time perspective, reshooting really wasn’t an option to maintain my schedule. It’s quite reasonable for audiences to expect a certain level of quality from established channels, and for that I do apologize as this was never my intention. I will do my best to ensure this doesn’t happen again in the future, but I’m sure I’m far from being done with making mistakes. I hope you all can enjoy the cool technology that Volvo packs into this engine, and thank you all so much for your continual support of this channel! I hope you’re having a wonderful day!
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Happy New Year everyone!! 2017 was truly an amazing year here at EE, and I just want to say thank you all so much for continuing to watch, share, comment, (and even criticize occasionally, I deserve it haha), and most importantly maintaining your curiosity. Personally I think education is one of the most important things in order for people to progress and move forward in a positive manner, and I'm happy you've all joined along with me on this adventure. Don't stop learning, whether it's from your teachers & professors, friends, family, or even some nerdy kid on the internet who's greying far too early. Let's have a great 2018!!!
https://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
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*Looks at like/dislike ratio* Uh oh!!! Sharing opinions on the internet is dangerous! 5 major points here to the folks saying I've lost it! (Maybe I have).
1. Lots of people saying this isn’t even a luxury SUV. Huh? You mean you can spend $120k+ on an SUV and you’re still not into “luxury” territory? Price tag doesn’t always indicate luxury (like track oriented supercars), but when it’s a 7-seater SUV, it’s clearly not going for the driving enthusiast crowd, and certainly not the family SUV crowd. It’s a luxury vehicle.
2. People saying “you think it’s the best luxury SUV because it’s the fastest?” No, it being the fastest accelerating SUV wasn’t even one of my five reasons! Quiet, smooth, effortless acceleration was the first reason. All luxury cars aim for this, as an SUV, this does it quite well (and happens to be the quickest).
3. “I’m a tesla fanboy.” I guess that’s why I made a detailed video breaking down all of the many flaws on my Model 3. Unfortunately, had this video been about the Lamborghini Urus, the enthusiast crowd would all agree; there’s a world of hate for EVs; many enthusiasts will never get behind them, simply because they’re different. That’s fine, but don’t assume that the same logic applies to all luxury SUV buyers.
4. Objective versus subjective luxury. Mentioned this in the video. The vast majority of the comments saying this is a bad luxury SUV are basing it on subjective criticism. As mentioned in the video, there are better SUVs on a subjective basis, as that comes down purely to opinion and feelings. Hardly any in the comments have stated why other SUVs are objectively better. I’d love to see more discussion around this, differing opinions is a good thing!
5. Thanks for being kind! For the most part, most of the disagreeing comments are at least being kind about it. I appreciate discussions where we can have differing opinions without pointlessly insulting each other. Thank you!!
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Hello all! Addressing common concerns:
1. Per the title, this video is not answering a question about vehicle costs. EVs today are generally more expensive up front. Here's a video diving into more details about EV cost, if interested: https://youtu.be/7bIBs8GuUYY
2. Yes, the Tesla Impact Report is used as a source in this video. Obviously, this should be approached with skepticism. As stated in the video, their numbers line up with real world estimates. Most studies I find cite ICE production emissions around 10,000 kg, and Tesla shows 9,000 kg (lenient towards ICE). This is also why I provided a scenario where you double the EV emissions, and it still wins out over 7 years. Actually really cool to see a manufacturer provide production numbers, because it's rare information to find. More here: https://youtu.be/6RhtiPefVzM
3. I hope this isn't conveyed as me telling you what to do haha. My only goal is to answer the question of the video title. You can do whatever you want! I have three cars. One is a supercharged MX-5. It's definitely not green. It's yellow.
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The video demonstrates the problem that's likely the most difficult to solve relating to hydrogen combustion vehicles, though there are other technical challenges. The fueling infrastructure doesn't exist, but it could. Most of today's hydrogen comes from natural gas reformation (hence, carbon emissions), but it can be made cleanly with electrolysis, if the energy source is clean. Making clean hydrogen energy requires tons of energy, but if you're able to generate abundant clean energy, it's slightly less of an issue (efficiency will always matter). Combustion inefficiency makes hydrogen driving quite costly considering it's the equivalent of paying $15/gal. Hydrogen combustion also has NOx emissions, despite no CO2 (okay, a little CO2 from engine oil). NOx is difficult to avoid with combustion engines. Realistically, today's hydrogen engines are less efficient than gasoline/diesel (meaning the bucket situation is very likely worse than shown in the video), but they haven't been perfected as much as gas/diesel. Still, fuel cells & EVs will always be more efficient. And you still need to make sure the 10,000 psi pressure vessel has a safe location in the vehicle. There are many challenges, but it's an interesting subject. Below are related videos, if you're interested in learning more!
Gasoline vs Hydrogen Engine Differences - https://youtu.be/l6ECwRnJ0Sg
How Toyota's Hydrogen Engine Works - https://youtu.be/3IPR50-soNA
Mazda's Rotary Hydrogen Engine - https://youtu.be/U-n5L0cXcpg
Why Hydrogen Engines Are A Bad Idea - https://youtu.be/1Ajq46qHp0c
How Hydrogen Fuel Cells Work - https://youtu.be/0jnZFGx_4kY
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Thanks for watching everyone! I think one question that may come up after watching this is "Why does maximum acceleration happen at peak horsepower, rather than peak torque?" It's a fair question, because in a single gear ratio, peak acceleration (the force pressing you back in your seat) occurs at peak torque. I have a video explaining this in great detail: https://youtu.be/cb6rIZfCuHI
Edit: Also, if you're confused about the equation for Horsepower in this video not including 5,252, I did this to simplify the video. 5,252 is a scaling factor only appropriate for imperial units, it is not useful if you use kW or N-m, so it's inappropriate to use 5,252 in a general equation. I will include a video in the future explaining exactly where (through derivation) 5,252 comes from.
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*Won't constant clutch slip create a ton of wear?!* Before you consider the system to be unreliable and inefficient, take a moment to think about what's happening inside an engine. You have a metal piston, sliding against a metal cylinder wall, thousands of times per minute, at ~60-90 miles per hour. And none of the comments seem worried about this? Rightfully, because cylinder walls use oil spray to minimize the friction and reduce the wear. In this clutchpack, we're talking about different materials, designed for the application, bathed in oil, with a massive surface area thanks to many clutch discs (spreads out the friction, minimizing wear). 0.7% slip is extremely low, and the friction created causes a torque to be sent to the rear wheels, thus most of the energy still goes towards powering the vehicle, with a tiny amount lost as heat.
Still not convinced? Prior to this YouTube thing, I worked in the forklift industry. Some forklifts use the transmission to brake, rather than wheel brakes. These are wet, multi-plate clutch packs, exactly like you see here, and they do nearly all the braking for a 4-5 ton forklift. That's real heat, because brakes (in this case a clutch) are designed to turn kinetic energy (the forklift's movement) into heat. These clutches can last the life of the truck, thousands and thousands of hours. It's very cool, and pretty incredible! Not to mention, pretty much every multi-speed automatic transmission is using clutches. Heck, a single-disc, dry clutch inside a manual transmission, can also last the life of the car! 100,000 miles no problem, if you're not abusing it.
My only point here is, before you assume it will fail, why not wait and see how it turns out? Toyota has a reputation for cranking out reliability. Why assume they haven't done the testing and validation this time? If there's info on GR Yaris burning up these clutch packs (it's been out for a bit now) - definitely let me know, and I'm happy to share information on it! I'll remain skeptical that the clutch pack is the big reliability concern for this vehicle.
Edit: If anyone is curious how this differs from Golf R/Focus RS, I have a video explaining here! https://youtu.be/2-_Dzd74GUE
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*UPDATE* MotorTrend has released the final info. On a prepared drag strip the rollout was 0.15 seconds, at which the timing clock starts at 5.9 mph. So, you can correctly state that on a prepared surface, the Model S Plaid true 0-60 is 2.13 seconds (not 2.2, as shown in video), or you can correctly state that on a prepared surface, the Model S Plaid 5.9 mph to 60 mph time is 1.98 seconds. Personally, I think 0-60 is more interesting/meaningful than 5.9-60. And to be clear, Tesla forced MotorTrend to run the test on VHT (glue). They would not have done it otherwise, and don't use VHT with production car testing (ever, in their 72 year history of testing).
*Original Comment* Elon Musk said Model S Plaid would have a “MotorTrend spec” 0-60 of 1.96 seconds. Well, as MotorTrend tested per their spec, that was not true, and it was not under 2.0 seconds. Watch the video for all the details (and then get wild in the comments)!
Edit 1: Fair point regarding Dodge Demon, per MotorTrend: "For the timed performances claimed in its press releases, Dodge fitted pizza-cutter front tires, drag racing slicks, ran it at 147 feet above sea level at 8:34 p.m. with a 40-degree ambient temperature on a fully prepared surface, and used 100-octane fuel to allow the 6.2-liter supercharged V-8 to make at least 840 hp and 717 lb-ft or torque." So while they don't delete rollout, they don't use street legal tires or pump gas, so it's in no way a production car IMO at that point. Dodge could have claimed 2.1 seconds (deleting rollout), but they went with 2.3 instead. It's neat that Dodge supplies all the stuff to actually do it, and regardless, the Demon never took the 0-60 production car record at MotorTrend, which was the 2017 Model S P100D, until this Model S Plaid.
Edit 2: MotorTrend has shared more data! Bonkers that the car sustains 1g of acceleration until 68 mph! And it goes from 0-60 in 98 ft, vs stopping in 104 ft. Read more here: https://www.motortrend.com/news/tesla-model-s-plaid-test-data-analysis-milestones-records/
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*UPDATE* Now that MotorTrend has tested, here's an updated video on the subject! https://youtu.be/HAmv2IO9row The new video will not address much of the how/why, as this video does, so both will remain up as they explain different aspects.
*CLARIFICATION!* Two major points, as there is some confusion:
1) Drag strips don't measure 0-60 mph. They do time the first 60 ft. When I reference "when the clock starts" (after the tire has moved 1 foot, once the stage beam reconnects), I'm referring to when the clock starts for auto magazines. They delete this first foot in their 0-60 times (though this is done with GPS, rather than stage beams at a drag strip).
2) Many people asking about why you can't accelerate faster than you can brake. This is assuming you have a car with modern brakes and properly serviced, well maintained brakes. Pretty much all modern cars can lock up the brakes, that's why we have ABS (anti-lock braking system). The job of ABS is to keep you as close to peak braking deceleration as possible (maintain a high static friction, so the tire does not lock up and slide). This allows the car to stop as fast as possible, and this also informs you what your average grip is during an emergency stop. Grip is ultimately the limiting factor for acceleration in very powerful cars (like a Tesla Model S Performance). If you know what your peak grip is, you can assume you will accelerate at that peak grip, so long as you have enough power to do so. You cannot accelerate faster than your grip allows! (Unless you use rockets, as the video states). That's why I find it fair to use braking as a way of predicting theoretical acceleration, with the disclaimers discussed in the video (discussion labeled "Why Trust Me" on the whiteboard).
Edit: 3) If it wasn't abundantly clear, this video is talking about road legal tires on a flat surface, not drag tires (which aren't road legal) on a prepped surface (sticky drag strip). When car companies quote 0-60 times, unless otherwise stated, it is the former (road legal tires, road surface) they are quoting, not the latter (drag tires, drag strip). Obviously you can improve 0-60 times of traction limited cars with drag tires, hence top fuel cars are hitting 0-60 in well, well under 2 seconds (under 1 second!).
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*Important Regenerative Braking Comment!* Many have asked why I didn't discuss regenerative braking (which all EVs have). It's a great question! Regen puts energy back into the battery pack, and slows the car down. Sounds great, right? The problem is this isn't perfectly efficient, so that means the battery pack heats up. In a track environment, it's far too much heat, so the mechanical brakes are doing the vast majority of the braking because they dissipate that energy outside of the vehicle (to the air). For road driving, it's no problem, but road cars don't tend to provide more than 0.2 to 0.3 g's of total deceleration using regen, anything above this (remember these cars are stopping at nearly 1.2 g's) is done by the brake pads & rotors. So in an emergency stop, or track driving, the mechanical brakes are the ones doing all the work. For casual road driving, you often don't need the mechanical brakes, because 0.2-0.3 g is plenty to get you to a stop. Both the Tesla & Porsche have regen, but Porsche sizes their brakes significantly larger, even though their vehicle has a lower top speed and accelerates slower (though still very quickly).
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*Lots of discussion in the comments, let's address the major points!*
1. To be clear, as stated in the video, this is about applications where the OE specifies mechanical attachment (heavy duty trucking, towing, some track cars, etc). You can see an image of these types of vehicles at 12:40 in the video. If the OE does not specify it needs mechanical attachment, I'm not here to say it does! I think OEs are smart and know what they're doing. The tech (mechanical and adhesives) has been around long enough for them to decide, based on the application.
2. How often does failure occur (for the "I've never seen a brake pad fall off" queries)? Safety is a probability game. Even if the chances of failure are very small, when you're talking tens of millions of vehicles, getting different quality replacement pads, then it becomes a reality. NRS gave a presentation at SAE where they pulled numerous examples from NHTSA where pad separation was failure point and cause of the accident. Unfortunately, it does happen.
3. 8 Day Oven Test (addressing "my car doesn't drive downhill for 8 days"). This is providing a method for understanding adhesive failure over a long period of time. It doesn't happen all at once (you could get 50,000 miles, or more, on the pads). In high heat applications, that heat can break down the adhesives, as the data showed. Edit: Worth mentioning, as the adhesive breaks down on the backing plate, this makes it easier for rust to creep in behind the friction material. This leads to rust jacking (as shown in the video), which eventually can fully separate the friction material from the pad.
4. What's the point? The point is for these specific OE applications, there are aftermarket brands saying they're essentially OE replacement pads, yet they're not playing by the same criteria as the OE. There should be an easy way for consumers to know. I found that fascinating, so when NRS approached me about a video on it, I was in.
5. Lastly, I appreciate all the pressure in the comments; it improves things long term! I do think I could have explained certain aspect better, after reading through here. Also, I think it could be a really interesting test to put the pads from the video through the 8 day 550ºF test. For what it's worth, I take sponsorship very seriously, and turn down probably 95% (if not more) of the offers that come my way. I thought this was a really interesting subject to learn about, and I have worked with NRS in the past, so I was happy to work together on this video.
What would make things better for next time? I'm open to your feedback, thanks!
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WATCH PART 2 AFTER! It includes an efficiency discussion: https://youtu.be/oJL9MasBFvM
IMPORTANT NOTE: Obviously, I should have discussed efficiency, as I have in almost every video where I discuss EVs. EVs are often 3-4x as energy efficient, meaning you need less energy total to move a certain distance (compared to the very best diesels, they're about 2x as efficient). That's why a "3 gallon" tank Tesla can drive 350 miles. Again, as mentioned in the video, the sweet spot right now is EV passenger cars. When you talk about towing, freight trucks, trains, planes, etc, the weight gain is not offset by the efficiency gain. Don't believe me? Here's the math: https://youtu.be/S4W-P5aCWJs
UPDATE TWO: I hope no one interprets this video as electric cars aren't cleaner/more efficient/better for the environment. They most certainly are: https://youtu.be/6RhtiPefVzM. Also an important consideration if you're in the market for an EV is buying the range that you need. A smaller battery has a significantly lower impact than larger batteries, and will offset its carbon footprint much faster. Obviously, this will result in lower range (city commuting, multi-car family, etc).
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IMPORTANT NOTE There's a lot of confusion about the engine size and how many cylinders are required. While the example I showed is four cylinders, you only need one in the simplest form. You can have any style air compressor beforehand (superchargers are air compressors), and you could have the combustion cylinder simply be larger to increase its expansion ratio. Four-cylinders is a logical way of explaining it, but as far as how the tech can be implemented, you could use 1, 2, 3, 4, however many cylinders you like. Also, both of the last two cylinders do useful work, not just the first combustion cylinder. As it is two-stroke, this will increase energy density relative to a 4-stroke engine design (double the power strokes per RPM).
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Math is hard, but if you follow along till the end, some really really cool conclusions about the Roadster! 0-60, braking distance, cornering capability, hovering, etc. Thanks for watching everyone!
EDIT You can play with downforce numbers if you'd like too! For example, if you put all of the rocket thrust as downforce (point the thrusters up), you can increase your grip (meaning better acceleration, braking, cornering IF you have the power/brakes to do it). For example, if the car only has 10,000 Nm of wheel torque, and it can put all of it down, increasing downforce won't make the car accelerate any quicker. But if it does have the power, you could theoretically shave a fraction of a second (0.05 - 0.15) off the 0-60, or a couple feet off the braking distance, as the tire is capable of accelerating greater than 1 g, meaning you have a multiplying effect from downforce in terms of grip. A reason why you likely wouldn't want to use the rockets for downforce, is you'd need to have springs resist that force, so you'd have really stiff springs, and it would potentially ruin your ride quality (this is why race cars have such stiff suspensions).
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If it wasn't super obvious, I wanted this video to explain the logic behind rear-engine placement, rather than history, heritage and tradition of the 911 (I think I just yawned). And while I didn't mention this in the video, I did in the video description "Porsche decided to put the 911's engine in the back, behind the rear axle, way back in the day when the 911 was first designed. Since then, that engine has remained there, and while some might say it's out of stubbornness, there are legitimately wonderful reasons for having a rear-engine car." Again, the focus was to discuss from a performance standpoint why rear-engine sports cars make sense. There are other reasons for rear engine designs, like improving passenger space vs a mid-engine layout. But you don't want a history (nor English) lesson from me, because it would probably be terrible. Hope everyone's having a wonderful day! If you think the shirts I'm wearing would increase your chances of driving a Porsche (who knows, stranger things have happened), I wish you the best of luck wearing it: http://bit.ly/2BHsiuo.
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To address the comments, so that it's absolutely clear, yeah, I personally paid for the truck - this is not sponsored by Ford. Let's break this down:
1) If a video is sponsored, I always disclose that it is sponsored and say who the sponsor is. I intentionally am very obvious about this - I'm happy to be transparent; it's how YouTubers should be (and it's the law, if you're into that). If you're ever wondering "is this sponsored" on my channel, it's probably not, because I will make it painfully clear when it is (this video is sponsored by Continental, as disclosed in the video and in the video description).
2) Yeah, $40k (what I paid, before taxes) is a lot for a Maverick. Inflation also sucks. $40k today is $30k in 2016, which is when I bought my Crosstrek for $25k. This is a lot more vehicle than a mid-trim Crosstrek, for what is effectively $5k more. If you spec a bare bones 4-door F-150 with 4WD, it's $50k today. That's the absolute minimum, with only base features. Truck prices do be crazy. If you're concerned about price, get the XLT Maverick - as mentioned in the video it's the smarter buy.
3) I bought the Maverick because I think it's a cool product and it's useful for what I want in a vehicle. Ford as a company had no sway on my decision. I did reach out to Ford PR for X-Plan pricing, they helped me with locating a nearby dealer and settling on price - but you can go on the configurator yourself and see I am basically right at MSRP. Early days, sure, getting Maverick at MSRP was difficult, but the automotive space is catching up and gouging isn't as effective anymore. You can get these at MSRP now, if not under.
4) If you genuinely believe I'm going to try and sell a product to you without disclosing it, well, that's a bummer! I'm not here to trick anyone. I simply like the truck. I get that plenty don't. Options in the automotive space are a good thing. I buy what I like. You should do the same!
5) I just tested it and it turns out I am able to fit four bags of mulch in the bed, not just three (in case you were on the fence). That's a lot of mulch! Fun fact (for real) - Maverick actually has more payload than F-150 Raptor!!!
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*NOTE* A couple interesting points not discussed in the video:
1). Toyota looked at other pump options (turbo pump w/ spinning blades, versus reciprocating piston). They chose the reciprocating option.
2). Why do you need a pump at all? Why not rely on the pressure generated from heated hydrogen as it changes from liquid to gas? Well, because the flow requirement is way too high. You're using a ~150 liter tank in the course of about 30 minutes. At 80% fill, that's over a gallon of liquid hydrogen per minute. You need a pump to flow that much liquid to the engine.
3). Why does it take so long to replace the pump? ~3.5 hours!? It is not at all a simple process. Toyota describes what must happen. Remember, the pump is inside the hydrogen tank, so the process is as follows: drain the remaining hydrogen from the tank, fill the tank with an inert gas (nitrogen, in this case), replace the pump, remove the nitrogen, fill with gaseous hydrogen, then fill with liquid hydrogen. The process is very time consuming (took 4 hours the first time, 3 hours the second time, during the race).
If you enjoyed this, I have numerous related videos on the subject to learn more!
Toyota's Gaseous H2 Engine - https://youtu.be/3IPR50-soNA
BMW's V12 Hydrogen Engine - https://youtu.be/AouW9_jyZck
Toyota's V8 Hydrogen Engine - https://youtu.be/vJjKwSF9gT8
Hydrogen Engines = Bad Idea - https://youtu.be/1Ajq46qHp0c
Gas vs Hydrogen Engines - https://youtu.be/l6ECwRnJ0Sg
Hydrogen Rotary Engine - https://youtu.be/U-n5L0cXcpg
The Problem With Synthetic Fuel - https://youtu.be/0d0MPg7DxbY
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*Some additional important information!*
Modern turbocharged engines are based on absolute pressure, so they will attempt to match the cylinder pressure when at elevation to that of sea-level by providing more boost (with a lower baseline atmospheric pressure). Because you have the same amount of air in the cylinder, but are using a lower grade fuel, you can run into knock issues - hence, this is especially important to avoid doing with modern turbo engines. That said, even the engines tested from 1987 showed that the Octane # drop requirement was significantly less for "modern" engines (again, 1987), regardless of induction method, so this is not an exclusive problem to turbo engines.
Does Europe have higher octane fuel? No, explained here - https://youtu.be/zf-OYXlhJis
Is premium gas actually worth it? Not always, explained here - https://youtu.be/dxAQmj3P8xs
Octane vs Cetane - what's the difference? Explained here - https://youtu.be/OqV5L70-MUE
Is Ethanol bad for your engine? Explained here - https://youtu.be/ATGSBi1kBl0
Important Edit: E85 gas ≠ 85 Octane gas. E85 is 85% ethanol and has a very high octane rating (100+). 85 Octane gas is at max (if sold as regular gas) 10% ethanol and has an octane rating of 85. Do not use E85 if your car is not made for it (generally these cars are labeled as FlexFuel).
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*Note!* The weight for the previous generation (2016) BMW M2 was pulled from the global media site, which lists it at 1,495 kg (~3,300 lbs, as stated in the video). However, the US media site lists it at 3,450 lbs, and initial weighings from Car and Driver / Motor Trend put it at 3,415 lbs / 3,411 lbs respectively. All of this is to say, despite conflicting info across media sites, is that the likely weight difference is closer to 400 lbs than 500 lbs, as stated in the video. Regardless, a hefty weight bump for the latest generation.
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Okay, I hear ya guys, 250 HP may not be low, but we're talking relatively here. I live in the US market, and in the US market when you spend $35k on something sporty (domestic or not), you can get a lot more than 250 HP. Can we all also agree that it's neat that the 240i can match the Mustang GT's 0-60 with 100 less HP? Yeah yeah, underrated, but no one is going to underrate their engines by 100 HP in a market where HP sells cars. My point was the car is cool, and makes do with less. It's neat, I enjoyed it, and I hope you all did to. Have a solid day!
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*Metric Folks!* Here are some conversions, in order of appearance, from the video:
60 mph = 96.6 kph
86 ft = 26.2m
4,000 lbs = 1814 kg
2,200 lbs = 1 metric ton
4,400 lbs = 2 metric tons
170 lbs = 77 kg
30 ft = 9.1m
300.8 mph = 484 kph
70 mph = 112.7 kph
I understand the frustration if you're not familiar with the units, however I'm simply using the units that the source material (Motor Trend) publishes. In addition, I do my best to get everything in terms of "g's" rather than "feet," so that it's universal and easy for everyone to understand. That said, your concerns are noted, and I'll keep this in mind for future edits! I have plenty of videos using either unit, and generally choose based on the context of the topic. 60-0 measurements would equate to 96.6 kph - 0 measurements, which doesn't seem like it'd be intuitive to anyone (versus 100 - 0 kph, which would have longer stopping distances). By using g's, we avoid this unnecessary confusion.
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Let's clear up some confusion! First off, the reason the max temperature shown is 160 C for the tires is due to the camera setting. There are modes for different temperature ranges, and the mode I recorded in offers the best images for lower temperatures. After the burnout, I quickly switched to a higher temp mode to read tire temps and brake temps, though the tire temps never read over 160. I imagine they were a little bit hotter, but it seems much more than this and the compound simply melted and spit off. In the higher temp mode, you can see the brake temp readings exceeding 300 C. In order to do a stationary burnout, you must of course use the brakes - this is why the rear brakes are so hot. The engine is overpowering the rear brakes during the burnout (intentionally, have to balance brake pressure and throttle), but there is still significant pressure on them. For drag cars, "line lock" is used, where you have a separate brake system for just the front tires, so that you're not killing brakes or making the burnout any more difficult for your engine. Traditionally, cars have a split brake system, (Front right and rear left linked, front left and rear right linked - safe to do incase one circuit fails), so you can't simply disable one brake circuit to complete a burnout without rear brakes.
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How cool is it that such a simple part swap can have such a dramatic impact: it enables more power, decreases wear, improves reliability, reduces friction, and can help improve emissions. Engineering is awesome! This is my last video of the year - hope you’re all enjoying the holidays and have a Happy New Year!!!
Edit 1: As several have pointed out, and was not discussed in the video (though it should have been!), some flat tappet designs use a tapered cam and a specific shape on the tappet to encourage it to spin as the cam rotates against it, reducing wear. It isn't as effective as a solution as a roller, since there's still going to be relative motion between the two parts, but it certainly does help with wear. A roller takes this idea much much further, reducing the relative motion between the cam and lifter as much as possible.
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There's a lot of info I wasn't able to squeeze in the video, click "Read more" for fun facts!
Get 15% off your Carly purchase with code "Explained" (auto-applied) until September 10, 2024 when you click: https://bit.ly/Carly_EngineeringExplained
Carly's scanner and free version of the app with standard OBD features are compatible with cars that have an OBD2 port. To see if Carly's advanced features — like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics — should work with your car, make sure to check out their website. To access these additional features, you'll need to get their yearly license.
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Edit 1: Up until about 8.5 minutes into the video, the bottom left corner reads 760 HP for the Z06, rather than the correct number, 670 HP. I eventually noticed I wrote this incorrectly, but not until halfway through filming. :)
*FUN FACTS*
Hard to make everything fit in one video!
- Why turbo vs supercharged? This maintains the rev-happy nature of the engine, without bolting on a huge spinning mass (supercharger). Also has greater efficiency, and 1,000+ HP would require an enormous supercharger.
- Why 1,064 HP? Why not some rounded, clean number? Corvette engineers state they're only goal was to make as much power as possible from this engine on pump gas. 1,064 was that number! No weird rounding, just aiming for pure performance and hoping to push it into four figures, which they exceeded nicely!
- Top speed is over 215 mph (it has the power to do way more, so I expect this number is higher!
- The car has 1200 lbs of downforce at top speed with the ZTK package aero - highest ever for a 'Vette!
- It's RWD, did I mention that? Ha!
- The exhaust alone produces 37 pounds of thrust!
- The turbo wheels are made of MAR, and can see a steady state of 1,000ºC!! They see peaks up to 1,030ºC. That's hot.
- As far as fueling strategy, port-injection only is used at idle & light loads. DI is blended in for mid & high loads (and of course very important at high loads). Using DI-only is rare (without port), but is used on cold-starts.
- There are 15 heat exchangers on the vehicle to handle all the cooling needs.
- It has a new J58 braking system, and 'Vette engineers say there is magic in the rotors, which have better heat rejection and better durability.
- The standard ZR1 is a softer version (ride dynamics) of the Z06. When you go ZTK package, it's no compromise, and all about lap times. Stiffer, more downforce, track weapon!
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Track Day Update! Spent today out on the track - this thing is an AutoX killer and feels right at home on the track as well. It's fast; I was on a track I'd never driven, and the experience wasn't terrifying. It's approachable and quick, which is a tough combination to execute. Part of this means the handling characteristics cater to who you're selling to (turns out they're not all race car drivers). There's adjustability in the suspension, but out of the factory it has a touch of understeer which you'll notice if you push it hard. Phenomenal grip, good rotation, and a little bit of push (which again, I believe with some quick adjustments to the suspension for a track day, you could tune how you'd please). For me, the fit is a little tight (I'm 6'1"). Steering wheel all the way up, seat all the way down, knees very close to the wheel, occasionally touches. I'm also not sold on the steering wheel, I think I'd like a circle a bit more, but the ratio is fine for track use, and tight corners.
Also learned some cool tidbits I'll likely be sharing on Instagram after some chats with engineering if you're interested!
https://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
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IMPORTANT NOTE: Vehicles like the Mercedes G-Class blur the lines between what is “technically” 4WD vs AWD. Today, to call something 4WD traditionally means it has a transfer case and can switch from 2WD to 4WD, as well as having a low speed range within the transfer case. While the G Wagon does not have the ability for 2WD, it does have a hi/low speed transfer case, as well as lockers front/rear/center. For these reasons I’ve included it in this discussion, since like the Jeep Wrangler and Ram Power Wagon, it is designed with offload capability in mind. Like the Jeep and Ram, the center lock in the G-Wagon should not be used on road, since it will cause binding (assuming the road isn’t covered in snow, ice, etc). For what it’s worth, Mercedes currently refers to this system as “Permanent AWD with 2-speed transfer case.” The same terminology is used for the more serious G550 4x4 with portal axles, a machine clearly built for off-road use.That said, according to MotorTrend, in the 90’s Mercedes referred to the E-Class with 4Matic as 4WD, not AWD like it is called today. It’s important to know that ultimately these terms are founded as marketing differentiators rather than technical differentiators to explain how the 4WD system works. At the most basic level, 4WD simply means all four wheels receive torque. If you’re interested in more detail, below are a bunch of related videos. :)
Best AWD System - https://youtu.be/TotrUUuYOM4
AWD - https://youtu.be/UL9LmT3fzbQ
4WD - https://youtu.be/ZN6xHc7Nz-E
Transfer Case - https://youtu.be/K1qj8dHTmP4
Torsen LSD - http://youtu.be/wiq1Rk5wqds
Viscous LSD - http://youtu.be/w2bRb17jJ1U
Clutch Type LSD - http://youtu.be/ujsxq9WBllU
Torque Vectoring Differential - https://youtu.be/qwwFZAbYGW0
Differentials: http://youtu.be/Hv0jYDWp0ZA
Open vs. Locked Diff: http://youtu.be/gwJEU7p9U2Q
Open vs. Locked Diff Part 2: http://youtu.be/_HOa0aRZYpw
Multi-plate Clutch: http://youtu.be/SQvFg4WbdZ4
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Lots of questions/comments about the intercooler. Yes, the intercooler will help bring temps down after the supercharger compresses the air, however starting with colder air means the air entering the intercooler will be colder, and thus the air exiting the intercooler will be colder as well.
Edit - Additional note: The air temps are generally high because the air is heated by the radiator prior to being drawn in. I assumed there would be a bit more "fresh" air than there actually is. When I started driving (before the thermostat had cracked, meaning there was no coolant flow to the radiator) the intake temps remained nearly the same at the front and back of the intake versus ambient. As the engine warmed up and the radiator cracked, temperatures started to rise. This implies that the proper solution would be to have the intake pull air that has not passed through the radiator, whether that means moving the intake forward, or creating a box around it that pulls in air from the front. Looking back, I don't think a heat shield would do all that much for intake temps. Perhaps a small benefit for the back of the intake closest to the exhaust.
And if anyone's interested in going back to the Acura Integra days, I have a video testing if cold air intakes actually work: https://youtu.be/llKZdUyoz14 If you want to know the science behind why they work, here's a video on the math: https://youtu.be/Hiod1c2Py70
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She's supercharged!!! A couple comments to address many of the common questions below. First, engine horsepower vs wheel horsepower. S2000's are 240HP at the crank from the factory, probably around 190-200ish at the wheels (my stock car measured in the 180's). Explained more here: https://youtu.be/BOFVnkrkQ6k. Second, saying "other kits get you more HP reliably" is just regurgitating marketing talk. A kit's purpose is to provide packaging assistance, and ultimately boost. Any kit can do this. It's how fuel, air, and ignition timing are controlled that ultimately dictate reliability (doesn't matter if the kits home-made or $20,000). And comparing kits at different PSI is silly. With any of these supercharger kits (regardless of who makes it), additional power is easy to achieve by swapping supercharger pulleys. If I put on a 9 psi pulley, it has 9 psi at the top end. It would need standalone ECU and new injectors, but from there you're really just choosing a pulley size and picking the amount of boost you feel comfortable throwing at the engine. Hope everyone's having an awesome day!! Loving the supercharge kit, and a video driving coming soon! Instagram is a great place for intermediary content: https://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
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The car is incredible. I think there are very good reasons why it won Road & Track's performance car of the year. Apologies if you felt it was unnatural, but like all my sponsored videos I like to keep the content objective rather than subjective, so that it doesn't feel like you have to question or interpret what I'm saying. Acura was looking for a YouTube channel to help explain the cool engineering that went into this car, and I thought EE was a perfect fit. There's some fun stuff left out, not everything makes the cut (like the torque info, how they essentially always have peak torque available, or how they engineered the brakes to always have consistent feel, regardless of if it's using mechanical brakes, electric motors, or experiencing brake fade), but overall I thought it was a pretty neat idea, and fun video to make and publish! Always appreciate considerate, constructive feedback. Thanks!
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Was the the vehicle in this video at capacity? Yes, but it’s rather confusing how we get there. The combined truck + trailer weight in this video is 39,840 lbs (with no people). The combined weight rating is 43,000 lbs - which you’d reasonably assume we’re down 3,000 lbs. However, the vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (just the weight on the truck) is 14,000 lbs, and we’re at 13,700 pounds (without driver, but with the tongue weight of the trailer) in this vehicle, so we’re hitting max GVW before hitting max GCW. Why? Because this is a Limited truck, not the base truck, which will have a lower curb weight with few features, smaller cab, 2WD, etc. So while the base truck would have a GCWR of 43,000 lbs, you would never achieve that with the Limited version due to the base weight of the vehicle. Meaning? Your truck has a maximum amount it can weigh, your trailer has a maximum amount it can weigh, and your truck + trailer has a maximum amount it can weigh. In this video, the limiting factor was the truck’s 14,000 lb GVW, which allowed for a trailer weight of 30,645.
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If anyone is interested in the full warm up - no time lapse, no voiceover, no music; just pure data shoved at your brain for a continuous 15 minutes, I’m here for you! Here’s the link: https://youtu.be/W6_lv2UNQAg
EMISSIVITY NOTE: For anyone concerned about emissivity and the temperatures you're witnessing, I just did a quick test in my kitchen to verify the temps we're seeing. I took a sheet of paper (emissivity ~0.9+) and a sheet of aluminum foil (emissivity ~0.05), while the camera was set for an emissivity of 0.95. The camera accurately read the temperature of both items (about 20 deg C). Then I switched the camera's emissivity to 0.04. The aluminum foil's temp then varied widely, from 0 deg C to 50 deg C (it was still at 20 deg C, the temperature inside my home), while the sheet of paper now incorrectly read 30 deg C. To me, this shows that with the camera set at 0.95 for emissivity, readings will be accurate, and it has a way of calibrating for various emissivity coefficients of what's in view. This video was recorded with emissivity set at 0.95.
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UPDATE! Big thanks to those who have been in touch to help me get these pads. Tesla has been in touch, and provided the following information for ordering (when calling a service center).
Track Pads:
8008243-00-A BRAKE PAD KIT - SERVICE, FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, TRACK MODE PACKAGE ONLY $495.00
8008247-00-A BRAKE PAD KIT - SERVICE, REAR BRAKE CALIPER, TRACK MODE PACKAGE ONLY $495.00
Model 3 Performance Pads:
8008242-00-C BRAKE PAD KIT - SERVICE,, FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, SPORT $330.00
8008246-00-A SVC RR BRAKE CALIPER, SPORT, LINING KIT $330.00
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*UPDATE - WRONG INFO* Clarification as there is some bad information at 5:13 (as pointed out by Cory Engel in the comments). The bypass valve operations is as follows, as per Ford:
1. When the engine is at WOT, the bypass is fully closed, and everything goes through the rotors, charge air cooler and into the cylinders.
2. When the bypass is fully open, say at idle, when no boost is required, then the majority of the air goes through the bypass circuit. The engine air flow demand is not very high, and it takes the path of least resistance. It still goes through the CAC.
3. At part throttle, part loads, the air can recirculate in the unit.
Regarding 3 above, this means at part throttle (highway operation, etc), the airflow still goes thru the rotors, but the excess pressure actually is bled through the pass and recirculates (unlike what I state in the video, that airflow skips the rotors - it does not!).
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Important Note! Corrected Video: https://youtu.be/7E-LSkwmBvk. This video is partially incorrect, as has been accurately discussed in the comments below. It is not correct to add resistance to the normal force on the rear tires to determine if the wheels can spin. A vehicle sitting stationary in strong headwind could still do a burnout (assuming the headwind doesn't create a bunch of downforce). The only thing that matters for spinning tires is whether or not you can exceed F = u*N (the maximum force the tires can apply, based on available traction). N, however, gets a bit complicated, and is dependent on at least four factors: 1. Weight distribution. 2. Load transfer due to acceleration. 3. Downforce on the car. 4. Load transfer due to wind resistance. Ignoring aerodynamics, the vehicle needs to exceed a rear wheel force of 2368.7 lbs (10.54 kN) to spin the tires, regardless of vehicle speed. Because the engine alone can create 90% of this force at 100% throttle at 5300 RPM (engine speed at 160 mph), adding in electric motors will be more than enough to spin the tires at 160 mph, even accounting for downforce (which, ironically and completely coincidentally, is very similar to the air resistance forces calculated in this video).
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Lots of folks disagreeing on the assessment, which is fine! Plenty of the other journalists disagreed as well which was part of why I brought that up. But... I will continue to disagree that just because the LC500 is a grand coupe, it has to weigh more and sacrifice performance, all at a higher price point vs the GS F. Let's not pretend the GS F (a sedan, it's a sedan!) is not a luxury car first, with performance as a bonus. It is. Both have amazingly quiet, comfortable rides, and beautiful interiors. Both have some of the best sound systems in the automotive world. But 250 lbs extra for a two-door? $30K more than the RC F Coupe which is also luxurious, and has the exact same engine? I just don't think there's a $30k difference in luxury (and certainly not performance). I wanted to love the LC500, expected to based on the praise I'd heard, but after driving it felt differently. The LC500 is better looking, with a better transmission, and moderately better interior. The GS F is more practical, and ironically better performing, all at a lower price point. The RC F is the bang for your buck story if you're into the Lexus line-up and want the best of both worlds (performance and luxury). Hope everyone's having a great day!
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Good questions!
Regarding brake squeal, this is generally more a pad related issue than rotor related; there are quiet pads and more track oriented pads which aren't as focused on minimizing brake noise. And with any rotor, there are many options as far as what pads to use with it.
Regarding brake feel, again the brake pad is pretty critical; a high temp pad won't bite as much when the brakes are cold, but it will feel great once everything is up to temperature. The rotor itself is an incompressible surface, so as far as feel, there shouldn't be any difference between an iron or carbon rotor (if both are within a proper operating window).
Regarding damage, I don't know. It's a good question for me to follow up with!
Edit: I followed up w/ Brembo regarding damage, here's what they said: "Carbon ceramic is definitely more brittle than iron, and there is some risk of damage if handled inappropriately.
I’ve never seen a disc damaged by a rock. I think the likelihood of that happening is very low. Rocks getting lodged in the wheel usually damage the caliper, not the disc.
I have seen, however, discs get damaged when people remove wheels and let the wheel contact the edge of the disc. This results in a chip. A small chip <10mm isn’t necessarily reason for replacement, but anything larger could require replacement. Some manufacturers, like GM, provide a foam protective cover that should be wrapped around the disc during service. If the mechanic is careful there is nothing to be worried about, but it’s a risk nonetheless."
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Let's address some common issues in the comments! First of all, if it wasn't apparent, I'm quite happy with how it came out, and as such, was absolutely fine paying $2,200 for the repair. I am grateful for the work they did, it's something I don't have the talent or ability to do myself, and they're professionals. With that said, us engineers are a finicky bunch. We like deals, and we like efficiency. Do I want the shop to make money? Of course! That's why I paid $1415 in labor alone. Do I think it's fine for a shop to charge a 43% markup on a fender? To me (fine for you to disagree), that seems excessive. Before you say "but that includes them fixing it if it's damaged, or time spent dealing with Honda if it comes in incorrectly." No, it does not. The shop explained to me that if they get a damaged part in, they will bill Honda for the repair. The mark-up doesn't pay for fixing the fender if it's damaged in shipping. I'm paying the shop for their expertise in craftsmanship, in painting, etc. And for that, I'm quite thankful, they did amazing work.
If you like pictures of stuff, I have an Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
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Generally speaking, cars are tuned to deliver maximum power at wide open throttle. In this scenario, efficiency is sacrificed to give the driver what they want - torque. So the air/fuel ratio goes rich, meaning fuel consumption increases. When you're not asking for full throttle, the transmission will keep RPM lower, shift sooner, and generally apply a leaner, more efficient fuel map. That saves fuel. That doesn't necessarily mean engines are more efficient at partial load, and the discussion can get pretty deep from here, but generally speaking accelerating slower than WOT will save fuel. If nothing else, it means your average speed is lower, which tends to lead to higher MPG.
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Fair feedback! Answering your questions:
1) Because they have expertise, knowledge, data, and testing that I do not have. I think if you go through the video and ask yourself "what has been stated that is factually incorrect" you'll come up blank (if not, please point out errors, my intent is never to misinform). IMO, it's packed with good info, and that's a result of discussions w/ Mobil 1's engineers, and seeing testing information they shared with me in developing the product.
2) Of course I think engineers have thought about these challenges! Hence, Toyota is able to make some of the most reliable vehicles on the market, and many of them are hybrid. Challenges existing does not mean solutions do not exist.
3) I do agree, it'd be cool to see some data on engine wear on a hybrid/non-hybrid running similar duty cycles.
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I'm with you! I prefer physical controls for certain functions (wipers, climate control, volume, etc). But, to be fair, companies like Tesla (or is it just Tesla?) have figured out ways to make touch screens much less painful than you'll see from other manufacturers. For example, I really don't mind Tesla's climate control, all via touch screen, because the auto settings are really really good. BUT - the wipers are a disaster, and doing that with the screen is awful (they've updated it now, so you can use steering controls for wipers, but still would be better to have stalk switches).
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@dusselElite I don't say that Tesla has deceptive marketing because of timelines. I say it because they say things like flying Roadster, Full Self Driving (yet it's level 2), Cybertruck glass (then breaks), 0-60 in under 2 seconds (they still haven't done it), 10,000 ft-lbs of torque (never mentioning it's wheel torque, which isn't the standard way of presenting it). On the same website (tesla.com/semi) you can watch a video that says it has 4 motors, then scroll down and it says 3 motors. 400 mi in 30 minutes, then later 70% in 30 mins. Inconsistent. There's a long list. Tesla marketing is vague, we don't even get battery sizes or horsepower anymore in specs. They say the media misrepresents them, yet they have differing numbers on the same website, and no PR department to ask questions to get the right numbers. I stand behind the statement of deceptive marketing, and it's not because they took 3 extra years to deliver Tesla Semi.
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"Do your own homework, you can back up my facts." Right from the start, this statement is so critical to listen to. You can't say a bunch of "facts" and then put the onus on the viewer to determine if they're correct or not. Cite sources!! This is a very poor way of presenting information, and a lot of the statements made in this video are incorrect or highly misleading.
Yes, EVs have problems, lots of them! But videos like this are like political discussions on the subject, binary, without leeway for the grey areas that exist. EVs are not perfect, but let's not pretend ICE is, nor synthetic fuel (at $4/gal, show me where?! Porsche even admitted it was something like $40/gallon today - https://www.motortrend.com/features/porsche-supercup-efuel-direct-air-carbon-capture/). Are there massive negative environmental consequences of electric cars? Yes. Are they objectively cleaner over their lifetime versus the average combustion vehicle? Most certainly yes. Here's a video breaking it down, with cited sources so you don't have to guess where the numbers came from: https://youtu.be/6RhtiPefVzM
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I will have a video explaining this is greater detail soon, but for now, a simple example. Yes, it's always 50/50. Let's say one wheel has enough grip for 5 units of torque, the other for 10 units. Max you can apply is 10 total, 5 to each tire, limited by the tire with less grip. However, if you apply 20 torque units total to the system, and use the brakes to remove 5 units from the wheel with less grip, now you can apply 15 units of torque, rather than just 10. Both wheels get equal torque, but more torque overall reaches the ground.
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It's a tough statement to rebuke in a few sentences, but look at HCCI, SPCCI, RCCI. These are the future techs that are looking to improve on the efficiency of gasoline engines, and they're only cresting 50% efficiency, when electric motors (today) easily exceed 90%. It's physically not possible to use combustion to turn 90% of a fuel's energy into useful work. There is an insane amount of energy lost as heat (this is why fuel cells are used with hydrogen fuel, rather than combustion). The very best ICE are combined cycle turbines which can maybe crest 65% efficiency, and that's by use waste heat to convert steam into useful work. But you can't simply throw on another engine on a car (steam generator). It's heavy, it's not practical, and the weight can offset the efficiency benefits. I'm all about challenging that status quo, but stating "nah ICE will get better" without reasoning as to why, is no better than me stating "we're reaching peak ICE efficiency" without stating why.
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Sure, but this isn't how it works with body shops (at least the one I went to). They explained to me if they get a damaged part in, they will either have Honda send a new one (and bill them), or fix the one that arrived (and bill Honda). Either way, if Honda messes up, Honda pays for it, not the customer. But the shop still makes that $120 profit no matter what - and then some if it needs repair. (The repair work, I agree, should be compensated. The markup, personally, I find excessive).
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***** A great discussion, and I think there's a fairly simple explanation that covers the majority of it, starting with the question, why should one (and should they really?) add sandbags for better traction?
Adding sandbags to a RWD car increases the maximum force that the rear tires can put down without slipping. NOTE - this obviously does not mean the car can accelerate faster (quite the opposite, as it has more mass). The benefit of this is that many drivers don't really know that flooring it in loose conditions isn't in their best interest. When there is more weight over the rear tires, it's more difficult for them to break free from acceleration, which makes the car seem to be easier to drive. That said, if you simply ease onto the throttle, and accelerate very lightly, the same result could occur with a vehicle without the sandbags. You're essentially making your throttle pedal less aggressive.
Now if your vehicle is FWD, AWD, or on a non-loose surface, you certainly shouldn't add weight to your vehicle. Worse acceleration, deceleration, handling, and fuel economy (everything).
Regarding narrower tires in the winter, I asked Bridgestone and this was their response: "There is no perfect answer, but it is common practice with tire and wheel packages to go down a wheel size and section width. Part of the reason is the cost of the wheels and tires will be cheaper. This can be beneficial in deep snow. With deep snow environments wider tires will have more of a plowing effect, where narrower tires will get deeper down."
Basically, narrower tires can be beneficial under deep snow conditions (emphasis on the word can, not will). On packed snow, having a wider tire is fine.
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I am no aerodynamicist either, only took one class of fluid dynamics, though this is more about statics. Would you agree that a rocket powered car, with wheels on the ground, but a rocket behind the center of gravity, would indeed have no weight transfer onto the rear wheels from the rocket's thrust? The same would apply for wind. If you had a car sitting in neutral, no brakes applied, and the wind blew directly at the center of mass, the car would move but you wouldn't have load transfer. Let's go back to the book analogy. If you apply a force to the very bottom of the book from the front, you would have load transfer and the book would fall forwards. The reason is because you're creating a moment about the center of mass. Here's another example. Let's say the driven force is slightly above where the wheels touch the ground, but not much. Would you still have weight transfer to the rear tires? Yes. So what if the opposite happens? You have a stationary vehicle, in neutral, and a wind blows on it from the rear, with the center of pressure just above the ground. Does it again have weight transfer to the rear tires? Yes. A force is a force, we're just using wind instead of a rocket or an engine in this case. So if that force comes at the car from the opposite side, the load transfer will be on the opposite side of the car as well. Referencing Physics For Gearheads (http://amzn.to/29ipxCw), this is a "quasi-statics" situation. Because of this, we must always sum the moments about the center of gravity. If you sum the moments about the center of gravity with a force in-line with gravity, it does not affect load transfer. Going back to our example, if you have a book floating in space, and you press on the bottom, it flips one way, and if you press on the top, it flips the other way. It doesn't matter if the force is instant or continuous, the book rotates based on where you apply a force in relation to the center of mass. That got a bit long winded... apologies. Hopefully helpful?
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Okay, let's bring math back into it, and include both forces as you suggest. Imagine we have a rectangle, 10 meters wide and 4 meters tall. Center of gravity is in the center, 5 meters from each side, 2 meters from the ground (drawing a picture may help). The car's normal force is 10,000N. To the bottom left of the rectangle, we apply a 2500 N force at the very bottom. If we sum the moments about the center of gravity, this will give us an upward force on the left of the rectangle (image it rests on the right and left points touching the ground) of 5500 N, and on the right of the rectangle 4500 N. Load transfer has occurred. If there were no force, each side would have a 5000 N force. Now, let's add wind, first at a height of 3 meters, to the front of the box. A wind force of 2500 N. Sum the moments at the center of gravity, and we have 5750 N on the left, 4250 on the right. Cleary the wind has caused load transfer to the left side of the rectangle. Now place the wind force at 2 meters, the height of the CG. Sum the moments about the CG, and we're back at 5500 N on the left side, 4500 on the right. The same as if there was no wind at all (from a load transfer standpoint). Now place the wind at 1 meter, 1 meter below the CG height. Now we have 5250 on the left, and 4750 on the right, meaning the load transfer to the rear is less than if we just had an acceleration force. Finally, place the wind force at the very bottom. Now the loading is 5000/5000 or a 50/50 split. The wind force completely negates any load transfer as a result of the acceleration force. If the wind force did not exist, the rear would have a 5500 N load. In other words, the load transfer is less if the wind is under the CG, more if it's above the CG, and equal if it's applied at the CG. I now understand why this is confusing, however, because in the video if we assume it's holding a constant speed at 160 mph, we would have to assume there is load transfer. As stated in the video (though admittedly, it was brief), I'm ignoring this load transfer, and assuming that momentarily, in order to spin the tires, throttle is released, you have no load transfer to the rear, and then you slam the throttle and apply a shock load causing the tires to spin.
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Roshsun Stewart I know you think I have no idea what I'm talking about, and that's fine, but you just agreed with someone who said
" In the case of a fixed axle, there is a constant torque through the axle, but the two wheels can be applying different torques to the ground, depending on what surface they are in contact with."
You do realize he's saying torque can be split between the two wheels, and is not always equal, even though you've been disagreeing with this point since day one. Also, I'm a graduated mechanical engineer, I have a bit of a knowledge base of understanding torque, moments, and static forces. This understanding is important for understanding differentials. But by all means, please don't waste any of your time.
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Hey! Let's discuss what you've written:
1) It doesn't matter how powerful the electric motor is that is starting the engine - metal on metal contact is what is causing the wear, not how powerful of a starter motor you use. As discussed, this is less of an issue once it's warm. I'm not sure why you're insinuating I said something contrary, as I said exactly this in the video...
2) Lower average temperatures is a fact for hybrids. See the graph at 3:49. I know it looks like chicken scratch, but it's actually just a simple whiteboard copy of what a hybrid's oil temp looks like over time - this is real data pulled directly from an operating hybrid; you'll see these spikes and drops in the oil temp. As mentioned in the video, subsequent starts will be operating at higher temperatures, so it's less problematic as the oil circulates more quickly.
3) Start-stop faces the exact same challenges, as you point out, but it's far less frequent than full-time hybrids, and only happens when you're not moving. Hybrids will shut on/off regularly, even on the highway.
That's all to say, I'm not sure what "blind lies" I'm repeating, as nothing in the video is stated to the contrary of your comment.
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Depending on the circumstances, if aluminum was naturally black, but carried all the same properties, it could dissipate more heat via radiation. But, like I mentioned in the video, intercoolers are designed for convection, not radiation, and ultimately a black intercooler will likely just absorb more heat from things like your exhaust manifold, turbo, engine block (or the sun, if it's visible), etc.
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+André Catani When you start back after letting it rest on a hill in park, put it in the gear that will travel the opposite direction of your hill. For example, if you park with the front of the car higher (uphill), put it in drive, and slowly inch forward so the pawl can release. If you park with the front of the car down (downhill), put it in reverse first, slowly inch back, and this should allow the pawl to release. Then put it in drive and head off. Basically there's a force holding the pawl in place, and it can't release this until the gear moves, but if you move in the direction that's preventing it from moving, it has to snap out of the gear teeth (using the curvature of the pawl pin). Hopefully that makes sense!
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That's a great question. I definitely, 100% made progress from before day 1, to end of day 3. In the real world, when conditions are poor, you drive much slower, rather than pinning the throttle pedal haha. That said, the trail braking turn in technique was fun to learn - I'm not sure you'd use it in real life unless you ended up having way less grip than anticipated coming into a corner (because if there's snow on the ground/ice/etc, you should probably keep your speeds low enough that you're always in control and sliding is minimal). I would guess that doing one of the shorter experiences (2 hour to full day), perhaps not much retained long term (unless you learn very quickly!), but definitely a fun experience. For the longer experience, there are definitely some skills you can pick up. I didn't really do any left-foot braking before this, and I found it pretty natural by the end of it.
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If it took responsibility away from the driver, I'd say it's much more than that. It's not that Tesla isn't capable of greater features, but at this time AutoPilot is pretty limited. It keeps you in your lane, and it adjusts your speed, when you're on the highway. You still have to hold your hands on the wheel, and you're still responsible for everything that happens. To me, that's fancy cruise control. It's better than regular cruise control, but it's not necessarily a generation ahead of everyone. Nissan's ProPilot in the Leaf will also adjust speed, and keep you centered in the lane. Tesla adds lane changing to that, and a more advanced view of what's going on around it, but to the driver, in most scenarios, they're going to feel quite similar. When full self driving is out, I'm on board. It's game changing.
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That's fair, but this stuff has been researched for decades, and still not really any commercial applications. Lots of companies (VW, Mercedes, Nissan, Mazda, Honda, Hyundai, GM, and on and on) have put effort into research/development, but decades later still not large scale applications. Mazda seems closest with their SPCCI engines, but even that has been delayed for US release.
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I spoke with Generac about fuel consumption (again, 2.37 gal/hr was for a 1/2 load system), and also scoured forums to see people's real world use cases. 500 gallon propane tanks (holding 400 gallons total), last about a week to power a home. These engines seem to be designed to operate at high RPM to maintain the ability four high output. I couldn't trace down a true idle consumption, but I don't think it's very low. These are surprisingly thirsty engines (I did the same kWh of burning fuel per day calculation, which is initially what told me nah). But after chatting w/ Generac and looking over consumption tables, it seems 1-3 gal/hour is a very realistic estimate. Crazy, because sooo much energy is wasted. Seems like they need to come with a battery pack (they now offer this, but $10k for the battery alone), so the generator can charge that as needed, and then have the battery power the home.
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Hey there! Yeah, I mean from my perspective anytime I'm positive about something, there are a lot of comments I'm unbiased. I think the tech is cool, so I talked about it. It's not a negative video. Sometimes that happens. This isn't a review, either, it's purely about the AWD system. The Rivian has flaws. It's heavy, the navigation kinda sucks (search is terrible, can't find trailheads or off-road parks), and on-road there are definitely more comfortable trucks out there. I'm not sold on the throttle tuning either. But again, this isn't a review, and the AWD system is genuinely super cool, and functionally very impressive.
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+drunkandgreasy just FYI, if two motors have the same efficiency, and one makes 100 HP and one makes 200 HP, yes, the 200 HP motor will make twice the heat. The amount of useful power (thermal efficiency) an engine creates is it's horsepower. This is generally about ~30% of the total power the engine is making, but the majority of it is lost as heat. So for example, the Bugatti Veyron has 1000 HP, and yes in fact does produce about 2000 HP of heat, for which it has many large radiators to compensate for. Of course, about half of that heat is shot out the exhaust, so it's not as difficult to manage as it might sound, but there's still another 1000 HP that the cooling system has to take care of. In my short lived engineering days I used to work on cooling system design.
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It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out. Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were semi-metallic (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are ceramic. But the material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
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When you brake the rear tires, you slow down the drivetrain, starting at the wheels, which are connected to the drive axles and thus the differential. By braking the tires, this force does pass along to the differential. A clutch, torque converter, system of clutches in an auto box, etc... is the link where the engine and wheels are no longer connected. So to slow your car down, you also must slow down rotating components such as the driveshafts, transmission gears, and diff gears.
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Andy Negenman I post an explanation video every Wednesday. The past two Friday's I've shared an additional video relating to LMP1 and the engineering behind it, and I'll have another this Friday. I've been posting car reviews since September (over 8 months now). I truly appreciate your subscription, views, and for sharing my content. If you're not interested in videos like the car reviews, the great news is there will always be at least one explanation video a week (which I've consistently done since this channel started).
Regarding car reviews, there are a lot of reasons why I do them. First of all, I certainly enjoy it. It's fun to test out different vehicles and you can learn a lot from it. For example, I never would have known CVTs are much better suited for paddle shifters than traditional automatic gearboxes had I not had these cars in for review. I think there's a lot of value in having experience with vehicles on the market in order to understand the technologies out there which I'm attempting to explain on my channel. I have a video on cylinder deactivation, but I've never driven a vehicle with it. This time I had, and it was cool to see how often it would switch between V8 and V4; it was seamless, not a harsh transition. There's a lot I learn from these reviews, and in addition it can help those who want a more technical explanation of the car than you'd probably get at a dealership. I also include links to explanations of the technologies used, if there's something specific, in the video descriptions (see this one).
Edit: Let me also add that I do not get paid for these reviews. There's no reason for me to be dishonest. If I get banned from reviewing a certain brand due to publishing a review they were not fond of, so be it (though I doubt this will happen). There are other companies which admire the honesty.
My 2 cents; again, if you don't like the car reviews, there is always another video each week. Thanks for watching!
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+FCustureri The internet certainly made it tough to find answers - hence I had a couple discussions with Mitsubishi engineers to clear it all up. Answering your questions:
1. There are many, many reasons why a car might oversteer. Admittedly though, braking into a corner understeer is much more common. I would blame it on other things (tires & suspension) before thinking about the ACD's intervention. Under heavy braking, it wants to lock. In a corner, it wants to open. When you combine the two, I imagine it probably wants to open since you're turning. When it does open, if you're mid turn, I could see this causing some instability. That's assuming it isn't caused by other reasons (though it may amplify it regardless).
2. Nope. The easiest way of thinking about it is that when it's locked, it's trying it's hardest to be a locked differential. Locked diffs can send 100% of the torque to the wheel with traction, if the other has none. If one axle has more grip (ex: when you're accelerating the rear is loaded), it gets more torque. When the diff is open, it acts just like an open differential, splitting torque 50/50 between the two axles, always, until it locks again. In the video description I have a lot of content which explains this further.
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Okay, quick clarification here. It's possible you're correct, but I don't believe it's the case. You have the bevel box turning the rear driveshaft, and then the rear driveshaft turning the final diff. If these gear ratios match (one speeds up, one slows down), isn't that 1:1? Further context, this transmission has two final drive ratios. One for gears 1-4, and one for gears 5-6. This indicates there are two output shafts in the transmission which mate to the front differential (bevel box, here), thus allowing for the two final drives. Then you have the gear ratio of your rear driveshaft at both ends. If those match, wouldn't it balance out?
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Thanks for sharing all of this, great information. As far as changing my oil, cost is actually the reason I don't change it myself. It costs me $30 for an oil change, vacuum, and car wash, or I could buy the stuff myself for $25. For $5, I don't have to do it myself, or bring the oil to a shop, my car gets vacuumed, and washed. To me it's the best $5 I could ever spend. Of course, they're getting the oil for much cheaper since they're buying in vastly larger quantities.
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I know many will disagree, but I'm in the camp that believes this isn't necessarily true. Yes, to me, the sound, the vibration, the entire experience is absurd and my brain eats it up, I absolutely love it. But also, I grew up in the peak era of combustion cars. It's what I know. My first four cars had manual transmissions. But if you're born today that might be a very different story. I drive a Model 3 Performance and I'm yet to have a passenger that doesn't burst into laughter from the acceleration. If you grow up with it, it may seem better in many ways. When engines went from steam to gasoline, a lot of folks didn't like the change "loud, slow, smelly, etc." So I think a lot of it is what you know. But for me, yeah, an engine like this is hard to beat!
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Roshsun, I understand that it's not intuitive, but these are the facts. If it's not the case, there should be plenty of sources defending what you say (logic aside - as logic would agree with what I've stated). A wheel in the air will spin, but it's spinning because it's connected to the wheel on the ground, which is receiving the torque to rotate the axle. Find one source (not a forum, maybe an engineer), that agrees with you. I've said the same to everyone who makes your argument, and am yet to have a single source disagree with what I've stated. I have sources in the description, if you're curious. I make mistakes, and create footnotes when I do, and add notes to the description. I will gladly correct my mistakes, but this is not one of them.
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My goal certainly wasn't to make social class apparent while purchasing tires; it's one of few scenarios where I truly believe it's worth the extra money spent. There are places in life where saving money is justified (I use cardboard boxes as a tool box, and half my tools where quality isn't all that important are from Harbor Freight). Cheaping out on tires isn't safe. If you get in an accident, the deductible and increasing insurance premiums are going to cost way more than the extra cost of the tires, not to mention sourcing another vehicle if it's badly damaged, so it can save you money in the long run. It also helps aid your safety (as well as, potentially, your life). 36 feet is the difference between slamming the car ahead, and not touching it at all. The ability to swerve out of the way when needed, rather than simply understeering into whatever is ahead. From an accident avoidance standpoint, a cheap car with a working brake system and good, new tires is safer than an expensive car with poor tires.
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Yep, unfortunately it's not as simple as F=uN. The tire sinks into the pavement, and the more tire that sinks in, the more grip you'll have overall. As you go around a corner, the contact patch changes shape, and different parts of the tire are on different surfaces (bits of dirt, debris, etc.), and so you have some slip in some areas and grip in others. Temperatures of the tire change, and thus do the frictional characteristics. It's really a complex issue, but it can be oversimplified for a basic understanding to F=uN.
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There are restrictions for certain countries. Here's full details on eligibility: "You must be at least 18 years old to win. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. If Winner and/or Guest reside outside the country where experience will take place, Winner and/or Guest must have current, valid passports, and be able to travel to the experience location(s). If they are unable to travel to the experience location(s), they will forfeit the prize. Winners must not be residents of Africa, Asia, Belgium, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Italy or Syria. In certain countries, local rules and laws may restrict or prohibit the award of certain prizes or impose additional restrictions on participation. In addition, certain countries prohibit the importation of a previously owned vehicle. Entry is subject to all local laws. See our Sweepstakes Official Rules for more details. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. Individuals may not receive more than one major/grand prize and one minor prize within the same 18 month period."
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To my understanding, it goes as follows:
- EVs much better with regards to brake particulate matter (most braking is regen, so they use very little brake pad materials).
- EVs have higher tire wear, as a result of weighing more (but, for example, a 7,000 lb truck will have a lot of tire wear, regardless of EV or ICE). Need to compare identical segments and look at overall weight comparison.
- EVs have the upper-hand as far as greenhouse gas emissions, easily. In some situations where states power grids are heavily based on fossil fuels, hybrids can have the upper-hand. But ICE alone never wins, because hybrid is always a net emission reduction over the life of the vehicle.
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You're listening to the starter motor rotate the flywheel (and thus the crankshaft and pistons). There are many, many reasons why the car might not start, but the majority of the time it's an electrical issue. Dead battery, bad alternator, could be a bad starter/starter solenoid. But the list goes on, could be the spark plugs, distributor, wires, even the fuel injectors/fuel pump, or carburetor depending on the engine. A list that inspires confidence in your vehicle, right? haha
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A rolling start does not tell you how much the car pushes you into the seat. Rolling start introduces all kinds of delays (is RPM too low, below boost threshold, how much turbo lag is there, does it downshift, etc). Example, a naturally aspirated engine will go from 0% to 100% torque very quickly, so rolling start number might be good from say, 30-40 mph. Vs a Bugatti, which will take some time to spool up turbos, maybe the 30-40 mph time is slow, but once boost is there, the force you feel is enormous.
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Really appreciate it! I can't speak for Jason, but I do not consider myself a journalist (content creator, automotive media, car YouTuber all apply). Journalists generally have separation between themselves and the ad/sales portion of their businesses (MotorTrend, Car and Driver, etc). Since I'm a one man show, I do all the tasks, which blurs the ethical lines of journalism, hence why I say I'm not. But we all have our biases, I try and keep things as objective as possible - subjectivity is where you have to be careful, easiest to simply avoid!
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2
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2
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2
-
It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out. Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were semi-metallic (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are ceramic. But the material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
2
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1
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Roshsun Stewart Thanks for the sources. I agree with them, the first doesn't state how the torque is distributed, the second doesn't state anything about torque distribution, and the third doesn't say how the torque is split. So none of them disagree with what I've stated. Honestly I'm not trying to prove anything by saying "I'm right" I'm just trying to tell you that what I state in this video is accurate. If you'd like some sources from my end, click the second link in this video description, and go to the video description of the linked video, where I've jotted down a few sources. Also, in the comments you'll find a quote from 2 PhD mechanical engineers in a book on automotive engineering. Here's another fine quote: "By contrast, a locked differential forces both left and right wheels on the same axle to rotate at the same speed under nearly all circumstances, without regard to tractional differences seen at either wheel. Therefore, each wheel can apply as much rotational force as the traction under it will allow, and the torques on each side-shaft will be unequal."
Like I said, I know it's not intuitive, because it seems if two things rotate at the same speed, they'd receive equal torque. But this is not true, as the resistance at each tire (via friction with the ground) can differ.
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If I were torn between the STI and WRX limited, it'd be no question for me as they're close enough in price to justify. If it was between the base WRX and the STI, it'd be a much tougher call as the price gap is much larger.
For the few extra grand, you get a better transmission, 40 more warranted hp, different turbo, larger intercooler, exhaust valve timing, brembo brakes, different suspension, 3 limited slip diffs, one which you can control, better control arms/bushings. It's a big difference for the money.
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Dae Jin Kim It has to do with slip angles, and perhaps I'll make a more detailed video eventually, but think of it like throwing an arrow. The heavier part wants to stay in the front. This isn't entirely representative of what happens, but a simple idea. Also, as tires are loaded more, they tend to have a lower peak grip. That is to say, if you have a car sitting on a bank at a 45 degree angle, and it holds it, as you add weight, eventually the car will start to slide. It's complex, and I may make a video on this eventually, but basically the coefficient of friction decreases as the vertical load increases.
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buildmorefarms100 Just Lexus, Toyota, Scion, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Volvo, Volkswagen, Ford, Nissan, Mercedes, and Chrysler. Probably missed a few others. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2ir4svMoaYhRAuKykEGRgsrCk__OJRz3
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First off, thank you so much for your continual support and viewership of this channel, I really appreciate it!! As to your questions:
1. I don't know the real answer, but I'm pretty certain for legal reasons Mobil 1 keeps the vehicles and does not sell them to the public. Also, the engine parts are kept (for analysis, educational tools, etc), so the vehicles won't have engines.
2. Yes, a similar process is in place for their other products. That said, the testing requirements will be different. For example, they wouldn't necessarily run MADS testing at 20K intervals for products they didn't aim to sell with a 20K oil drain interval recommendation.
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Here's who's eligible according to the campaign:
"You must be at least 18 years old to win. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. If Winner and/or Guest reside outside the country where experience will take place, Winner and/or Guest must have current, valid passports, and be able to travel to the experience location(s). If they are unable to travel to the experience location(s), they will forfeit the prize. Winners must not be residents of Africa, Asia, Belgium, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Italy or Syria. In certain countries, local rules and laws may restrict or prohibit the award of certain prizes or impose additional restrictions on participation. In addition, certain countries prohibit the importation of a previously owned vehicle. Entry is subject to all local laws. See our Sweepstakes Official Rules for more details. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. Individuals may not receive more than one major/grand prize and one minor prize within the same 18 month period."
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Torque doesn't decrease because HP increases, it decreases because losses increase with higher RPM, there is more friction, and less time for combustion, and less air available as you get to higher RPMs, so torque decreases. HP is directly related to torque and rpm, so if both go up, HP increases, if both go down, HP decreases. If it's a combination of the two (one up, one down, like most cases), it's a balancing act of how to increase power. Some choose high revs, some choose high torque.
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I spoke with a controls engineer to discuss how quickly, after requesting a change, can you get to the desired target on EV vs ICE. He said on the cars they tuned (OE manufacturer, but this info is ~10 years old), an EV could get there in ~60 ms, a similar ICE vehicle would have a lot of variance (~100-250ms). The EV was very repeatable, where as the ICE took more time and was more variable. If you think about how the torque is requested, it makes sense, in an EV you can change the torque output from the battery nearly instantly. On a combustion engine, you have pistons moving up and down, and you're reliant on the next power cycle to do something about power. Say you're at 3,000 RPM, you've got 50 crank revs per second. So 25 power strokes. Say it takes 5 power strokes to get to your desired torque output, well, 5/25 is 0.2 seconds, or 200 ms. When you think about it, it's still very fast! But not as fast as EV.
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Depends on the country, here's who's eligible: "You must be at least 18 years old to win. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. If Winner and/or Guest reside outside the country where experience will take place, Winner and/or Guest must have current, valid passports, and be able to travel to the experience location(s). If they are unable to travel to the experience location(s), they will forfeit the prize. Winners must not be residents of Africa, Asia, Belgium, Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Italy or Syria. In certain countries, local rules and laws may restrict or prohibit the award of certain prizes or impose additional restrictions on participation. In addition, certain countries prohibit the importation of a previously owned vehicle. Entry is subject to all local laws. See our Sweepstakes Official Rules for more details. Employees, officers, and directors of Sponsor, Charity, or Prize Provider, and members of their immediate families and households, are not eligible to win. Individuals may not receive more than one major/grand prize and one minor prize within the same 18 month period."
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Copy and pasting a response to a similar comment below. Thoughts? "Would you agree that a rocket powered car, with wheels on the ground, but a rocket behind the center of gravity, would indeed have no weight transfer onto the rear wheels from the rocket's thrust? The same would apply for wind. If you had a car sitting in neutral, no brakes applied, and the wind blew directly at the center of mass, the car would move but you wouldn't have load transfer. Let's go back to the book analogy. If you apply a force to the very bottom of an upright book from the front, you would have load transfer and the book would fall forwards. The reason is because you're creating a moment about the center of mass. Here's another example. Let's say the driven force is slightly above where the wheels touch the ground, but not much. Would you still have weight transfer to the rear tires? Yes. So what if the opposite happens? You have a stationary vehicle, in neutral, and a wind blows on it from the rear, with the center of pressure just above the ground. Does it again have weight transfer to the rear tires? Yes. A force is a force, we're just using wind instead of a rocket or an engine in this case. So if that force comes at the car from the opposite side, the load transfer will be on the opposite side of the car as well. Referencing Physics For Gearheads (http://amzn.to/29ipxCw), this is a "quasi-statics" situation. Because of this, we must always sum the moments about the center of gravity. If you sum the moments about the center of gravity with a force in-line with the center of mass, it does not affect load transfer. Going back to our book example, if you have a book floating in space, and you press on the bottom, it flips one way, and if you press on the top, it flips the other way. It doesn't matter if the force is instant or continuous, the book rotates based on where you apply a force in relation to the center of mass. That got a bit long winded... apologies. Hopefully helpful?"
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It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out. Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were semi-metallic (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are ceramic. But the material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
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1
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1
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1
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1
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1
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1
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1
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It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out (materials). Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were semi-metallic (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are ceramic. But the material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
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It's honestly a very difficult thing to determine, which is why I left it out. Regulations allow for such a wide variety of materials that unless you do some sort of chemical analysis, I'm not sure there's much meaning behind it. For what it's worth, the cheapest pads were semi-metallic (again, vague, but that's all they tell you), while the other four pads are ceramic. But the material alone doesn't show a strong correlation with all tests (both ceramic/metallic can do poorly in sound, corrosion, shear, etc), so it's difficult to determine what's the cause for doing well/poorly based purely on material.
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