Comments by "Paul Frederick" (@1pcfred) on "$28 vs $300 Burr Set? US vs Imported Burrs. CLE-LINE, Champion, Grobet, Kodiak, Astro Pneumatic" video.

  1. Carbide burrs can rip through wood. But you're probably better off using a cheap rotary rasp. Although the rasp finish is rougher than the finish a burr leaves. The rotary rasp is like a rasp and the burr is like a file. You're probably going to have to finish with sandpaper anyways. A straight conical rotary rasp can be just the thing for weird wood shaping. I've never found a use for any of the other profiles.
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  2. Carbide is a dense subject. There's so many grades of tungsten carbide. You need a PHD in the subject to even begin to understand it. What I'm saying is not all carbide is the same. The carbide that'd make for a good burr would be a very specific blend. So it wouldn't simply be a matter of here's your carbide burr, have a good time. If it wasn't very special carbide then you wouldn't.
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  3.  @CplSkiUSMC  tungsten carbide is absolutely insane with the different formulations. I doubt if there's many people in the world that really understand it. They've dedicated their lives to the pursuit of that particular knowledge too. Mostly you run into it with inserts. The crazy problems and solutions. Fracturing, cratering, just general wear. What works with what.
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  4. I used to know a machine shop that made carbide tools. Man they were into their ways bellows. Carbide and abrasive grit can tear machine tools up.
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  5. QC actually costs money. Who knew? I worked in a tool and die shop so I know why USA made costs many times more. We actually throw reject product out. Which is something the overseas competition doesn't do. We wouldn't sell it if we thought it wasn't perfect. Everyone had a scrap bin next to them and we all used it. We're Americans! My foreman would be standing right there while I was throwing stuff away and he never said anything about it. It didn't work. Try it again.
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  6. Whatever HF is selling just use the cheapest brand going and that's likely comparable.
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  7.  @athhud  it's been a while since I've been there but it hasn't been long enough. I'd say it wasn't two weeks ago when my last HF purchase crapped out on me. Which was a COB LED flashlight I picked up there. They must know it's a POS too because they quit carrying it themselves. So there goes trying to exchange it. They got a handful of good tools and a raft of crap. It's a crap shoot what you'll end up with too.
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  8. Meh carbide burrs can be delicate. You chatter them once on something hard and they just shatter. So it's down to how you use them.
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  9.  @deltalima6703  boring holes is like everything else. There's two ways of doing it. The right way and all the other ways. With drills it's all about feeds and speeds. Get those wrong and you're going to have poor results.
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  10. Well yeah. There's a lot going on with a burr that makes one perform better than the other one.
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  11. Carbide burrs are more accessories than tools. I have some pretty whipped out Snap-On tools too. That doesn't mean they're bad, just they got a lot of miles on them now.
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  12. That gold coating isn't all the same. There's the good gold coating then the gold coating that comes on cheap tools. The good stuff is usually a slightly darker shade.
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  13. The Torque Test Channel has done some good flashlight testing. They test lumens, run time and drop tests. There is a lot of BS to wade through with the products.
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  14. I've never had much luck using carbide burrs in ferrous materials. One chatter and they shatter. They're OK for softer stuff though. Like say wood or plastic. Aluminum can clog them up. But if you go easy maybe.
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  15. You run carbide dry because steel is a vapor before carbide softens. So the heat isn't an issue for the tools. If they're running fluid using carbide it's just for surface finish. Plus keeping the work cool you can hold better tolerances. They're not doing it to protect the tools though.
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