Comments by "Paul Frederick" (@1pcfred) on "Is Electrolysis better than Evapo-Rust? Let's find out!" video.

Hey Dan. You know a thing or three about electricity, don't you?
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Vinegar is so so. Citric acid is better.
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What should only take a few hours?
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You can and it is.
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@JohnRodriguesPhotographer he didn't say how many amps he was pulling with his setup but I'm going to guess it may have been 4? So 48 Watts at 12V. Or a kilowatt hour every 20 hours. It depends what you're paying for electricity what that costs. I think the average is around 13c a kWh though? So he might have burned up around 65 cents of electricity doing this. I don't think I'd want to even wire up a solar cell to a battery for 65 cents.
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I'm gonna go ahead and ignore you saying that.
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Yes.
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What do you think brass is made out of? Monkeys?
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Sand blasting is a lot less targeted removal than either of the processes demonstrated here are. Sand does not care if it is rust or base metal. You strike me as the type that doesn't care either though.
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Amps is a measure of current flow. How many electrons are passing a given point in a circuit at any time. What determines that value is the voltage and resistance of the circuit. Volts / Resistance = Current So increasing volts or decreasing resistance raises current. As long as you have enough current capacity in a supply how much more you have does not really matter. Because what is going to flow is all that is going to flow. The rest of the current remains in reserve. Make sense?
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@ProjectFarm try citric acid too. Out of all of the weak acids citric acid is the most impressive. You can get powdered citric acid on ebay.
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@jefferythomas4414 no one gives a faf about your rusted gun.
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You can clean the anode to make it conduct better. Usually folks do set it up with a few anodes around work too. They do that for better line of sight with the work.
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I figure he might have burned up maybe 65 cents of electricity in this experiment at the average cost. I doubt he was using more than 48 Watts.
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You are plating rust onto the sacrificial anode. This is direct current so the flow is only going one way. Electrons come out of the negative and are attracted to the positive. Conventional current flow is backwards. They guessed wrong long ago. We've gone with it ever since. Electrons are negatively charged. Everything you've been told is a lie!
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I bet it'd be a great way to make your yard mosquito free. Probably make your neighborhood neighbor free for that matter too.
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Electrolytic rust removal is often claimed to be, "line of sight". It sure looked like you were getting good indirect removal to me. For best effect it is better to have anodes all around work though.
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@ProjectFarm yeah it is a great way to visualize actual electron flow. Conventional flow is backwards to what's really happening. That's why you have to hook the work to the negative and everything flows to the positive. Ben guessed wrong.
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What you're really doing here is plating the rust from the work onto the anode. In the process the rust on your work migrates to the anode. Which is what you want. You want the rust off the piece you want it off of. Supposedly none of the parent metal will leave too. I'm not sure why that is, I just remember hearing that someplace. That's why museums use electrolytic rust removal in conservation efforts. They know they won't lose any of the artifact they want to preserve. Not so much as an atom of it. So there must be some kind of science behind things.
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Evap-O-Rust may be more convenient if you just happen to have a bottle of it around. Washing soap, water and a battery charger are easier for me to get though.
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It has been done. I've heard of people doing it to campers. They put the whole vehicle into a pool and hook a welder up to it.
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@ImTheJoker4u enjoy the chromates that stainless steel leeches into the bath. You've been trolled.
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If you think vinegar is good you'd be amazed at how citric acid works.
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What some do is fill the tank with your water and washing soda then suspend a bolt on a wire inside the tank. You have to be careful to not short the anode out.
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Any conductive wire should work. I've actually always used copper wire myself. Some say to clean the spot where you connect the wire and maybe even solder it on. That will gain you better electrical conductivity.
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Electrolytic rust removal will never take away any parent iron metal. Something about the chemistry of it. It only attacks the oxide rust. Least that's what I've heard.
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you don't buy electricity by the volt. you buy it by the Watt over time of use. Watts is Volts times Amps. Now here he's using a 12V charger. He didn't say how many Amps he was using so we're going to have to guess at that. It was less than 10. I'd say a good guess is no more than 4 with the setup he had going on. So that means he's using maybe 48 Watts. Now we buy electricity by the kilowatt hour. It depends just how money grubbing your power company is what that costs. But the average is 13c a kWh. It is going to take you 20 hours to use a kWh with this setup. So over the course of 4 days that's maybe 65 cents.
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Most chemical processes increase with heat.
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Electrolysis is for hair removal. Electrolytic rust removal is what the cleaning process is called. Using electricity to clean rust has its pitfalls. Some troubles seen here are not connecting the entire wrench to the electricity. The movable jaw was not in good contact. You could see it was not really cleaning like the wrench body was. Also one anode is not good considering the process is line of sight. So to clean a whole part you want anodes surrounding the work. The beauty of Evapo-Rust is you drop something in and it works. So hard to screw up. Mr. Wizard science experiments not so easy.
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This removes rust. But it won't remove rust that's like in seized hardware. It can't penetrate there.
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