Comments by "Paul Frederick" (@1pcfred) on "Which Drill Bit Sharpener is Best? Let's find out! Chicago Electric, Drill Doctor, Bosch, Goodsmann" video.

Freehand sharpening bits is definitely the fastest method going. Also the trickiest. I guess you just have to understand the geometry of the bit? There's angle relationships between the cutting lips and the chisel point that you have to establish. It's easier to see on a big bit. Your other important angle is the heel relief cut. If the cutting edge isn't over the heel the bit will just rub. Get all of that right and bits drill.
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I already own two of the toys he's testing here so it's not making me want to run out and get anything now.
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@ProjectFarm If you dress your grinding wheel to have a crisp edge you can split points by hand. Or thin the web. Can web thin with a cut off wheel too. Just zip notches out.
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You best bet is bentonite clay. Just let it sit and it'll suck the oil up. Bentonite clay is the cheapest kitty litter going. Sawdust don't work too bad either. But "Speedy Dry" is basically repackaged kitty litter. to really suck a stain up expect it to take a few days. It helps to sweep the stuff around some now and again too. Past that to really rip stains you want to use muratic acid. Well I never want to use muratic acid. But if you really want clean give that a shot. It'll resurface your lungs while you're using it so it's a twofer deal.
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I got a Drill Doctor. It sits on my shelf and collects dust. I don't have the patience to use it. By the time I do one bit in a DD I could have sharpened a half a dozen by hand.
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Drilling is some pretty boring work. So you really haven't missed much.
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@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co I was classified mill and drill in the International Association of Machinists and Aerospace workers so I have a free pass for that one. I've literally drilled 5,000 holes in a single day. Then did it all over again the next day, and the day after etc. So when it comes to boring I am literally a professional.
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Hand sharpening drill bits is practically the stuff of party tricks today. I do think it is a worthwhile skill to develop though.
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His flange washer is covering up the label but it looks like 120 grit to me. Which is fine for a bench grinding wheel. It's a closed matrix too. So he was just asking to burn that bit. He should get a Norton white wheel. Maybe 80 grit?
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The biggest challenge hand sharpening is keeping both lips even. The only way you can really tell is using a bit in a lathe. Otherwise with the bit spinning I can't tell which one is cutting and which one isn't. But if you're cutting and you get two curly chips out of a hole you're good.
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@justanobserver530 I just looked. I have a 350X Drill Doctor. So it's their low end model. Can't say I'm a fan of it.
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Try following Harbor Freights instructions for their half blind dovetail jig. The old manual was actually flat out wrong. Those things are notoriously hard to get to work. But when the instructions are telling you the opposite of what you should do it is really challenging.
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I use Rapid Tap because it has the best smell. I just love how Rapid Tap smells. I could use it as a cologne. It's nicer than WD-40!
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@ProjectFarm if you rate cutting fluids smell had better be a criteria you judge by. The olfactory is important. I only use that dark sulfur cutting oil threading pipes. Gawd it stinks to the high heavens! Make some emulsified oil yourself too. You mix oil into soapy water. Use alcohol as a defoaming agent. If it feels slippery between your fingers then it is slippery. If not you need more oil. If it rusts stuff you need more oil too. But you really don't need much. Somewhere between skim and 2% milk.
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@Blogengezer well good on you for picking it up. Skills are good to acquire. The ability to pick up and master skills is a skill itself. Not everyone seems to be capable of it to me. Not going to speculate as to just why that is. I'm sure there's a variety of reasons. Just wanted to point out that's how it is. Many things are beyond many folks for reasons. There's certainly things beyond me.
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@ImJeremybear there's no one correct way to recut teeth. There's only whatever works for you.
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@ImJeremybear well I've seen people do it two different ways and I have my way I do it which is different. That's three ways right there and I don't imagine I know every way it can be done. Which is where you and I differ. I don't think that when Moses came down from the mountain one of the commandments had anything to do with setting saw teeth.
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@ImJeremybear I am referring to recutting saw teeth myself. Setting the offset is another thing. You can set a saw different ways too. Just a punch and hammer can be used effectively to set saw teeth. There's again no universal right set for saws.
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@ImJeremybear believe whatever you want to believe. But know this, just because you cannot do something does not mean that others cannot. Each to their own ability.
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Who cares? If you want a precise hole then ream it.
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@shadvan9494 no twist drill bores a particularly round hole. Bits I hand sharpen drill holes round enough to tap though. There's quite a range of diameters when it comes to tapping. I usually go for 75% thread myself. although there's times I've had to go below 50%. Just try tapping 6-32 threads into stainless steel and let me know how that works out for you. It'll give you an education in threading that's for sure.
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If you have to grind a lot off like let's say you're repointing a snapped drill I'll rough it by hand before I put it into the jig. You can just grind a cone pattern then sharpen it from there. How you mount your General sharpener has a lot to do with how it's going to work. How they tell you to mount it isn't the best way. Just the easiest way. Doesn't give the best results though. Try to figure out how it has to be to make perpendicular grind marks to the cutting edge and mount it that way. That's ideal.
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@_P0tat07_ with careful use I can get the cutting edges of twist drills more even with a jig than freehand. Grinding a twist drill freehand and getting it perfectly even is difficult to do. If you're not getting two even shavings out of a drill using it then the edges are not even.
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@ShainAndrews a day will certainly get the surface oil up. I find to suck a stain out of concrete takes a bit longer. I've heard about some kind of a powder painters use to suck stains up. But what that actually is I've no good idea.
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@ShainAndrews clay works. I've just never seen it work 100% in just a day. I've never seen clay completely remove discoloration either. All of that said clay still does an impressive job. I am also open to the concept that something out there in fact works more thoroughly too. I guess if you wanted your concrete perfect you probably should have been more careful about spills on it.
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@ShainAndrews powder would have the most surface area. What I'll do is I'll mix the clay up occasionally. Go there and sweep it around and spread it out again. Get some fresh clay on the stain, you know?
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@SteveJ328 some days I'm faster than others. Sometimes its me and sometimes it's the bit.
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I have a General bulldog style bit sharpener. I was not keen on mounting it flat so mine is mounted at an angle. That makes for perpendicular grind marks to the edge. In theory with a perpendicular grind the edge is less susceptible to fracturing. Calculating the angle is a bit of trial and error. You basically have to put a bit in the jig and hold it to the wheel then figure out how to make some kind of a bracket for it. Here's a picture of mine https://i.imgur.com/aVKd3I9.jpg
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@Francois_Dupont my chainsaw is really finicky about 40 to 1. Any less and it don't want to start hot. Took me so long to figure that one out. It runs good on a leaner mix but just will not hot start.
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@Francois_Dupont the mix screws are good on it. I'm telling you it's the oil mix. More oil makes all the difference with it. That saw may actually be a factory reject. I got it off Harbor Freight years ago so it was some buyout they got in on. It's an old Mac 30. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't just buy a lot of returns and resell them. Years ago HF did stuff like that. I ain't complaining. That saw don't owe me a dime today. It's like 28 years old now.
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@harleyhawk7959 I don't think there is any "right" ratio. There's just too many factors combined that would determine what's optimum for any situation. What isn't optimum tends to work too. I'd say if the engine isn't seizing and it's running then whatever mix you're using is "right". Most of the equipment I have is happy with 50 to 1. But my chainsaw won't hot start on 50 to 1. It wants a touch more oil. Maybe there's a scientific explanation? Maybe it's cursed? I don't know. What I do know is there's no mixture setting that changes that. It wants the oil!
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I use chainsaw stones in a Dremel tool. It came with some kind of a jig too but I never bothered with that. The angle it's supposed to be looks obvious. Now you're supposed to take the links in front of the cutting teeth down some also. The lower they are the more bite your saw will have.
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@SignorLuigi what would happen if your teeth were different lengths? I've never sharpened chains enough to remove an appreciable amount off a tooth. I only chainsaw for property maintenance. Which for me is still fairly frequently but not what one would do for firewood.
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@SignorLuigi people must sharpen chains differently than I do. I don't file chains first off. I use a rotary stone in a rotary tool. Which is real grinding as opposed to filing, which is filing. I also just grind the leading hook edge. So I don't see how that affects tooth height. As I'm only grinding the front of each tooth. The top of each tooth gets ground back but not down. In a hand saw different tooth heights is called calves and cows. When you sharpen a hand saw you file at an angle that does affect tooth height. Chainsaw teeth are much different than handsaw teeth. I sharpen hand saws too. But those I do file. I have a saw now that I have to retooth.
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Here's a test idea which bench grinding wheel is the best? Because the one you burned that bit up on is lacking as far as sharpening bits goes. Try a Norton white wheel. They run cool.
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