Comments by "Jack Voss" (@jackvoss5841) on "Project Farm" channel.

I had always found Champion spark plugs to be more reliable and longer lived. Though, that wasn’t under test conditions, and over 60 years ago. My first instinct today would be to at least try the old reliable. Some variables that you hadn’t mentioned, but do bear directly on your results, include: (1) Manufacturer’s heat range: Manufactures recommend specific spark plugs for specific engines. Sometimes they recommend different heat range of plugs for different working conditions for an engine. I didn’t hear you mention whether or not these were the recommended plugs. Maybe I missed it? (2) Plug gap: Each engine and spark plug manufacturer has recommended gaps for their electrodes for each application. I didn’t hear you mention that, nor see you test and adjust for it. (3) The square, corner edges of both the center and side electrodes should be sharp, clean edges. Since you used new plugs, one should be able to assume good, sharp edges. Problem is, that may not be a good assumption. Double checking prior to installation, and filing off rounded edges where spark jumps from and to can sometimes make a difference. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Well, the oil was in the ground for a few million years. Would less than 100 additional years change the oil? Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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There’s a product called Cam Guard. It is designed to cling to metal surfaces. I used it in my Continental, 6 cylinder aircraft engine, added to the regular engine oil. It helps to prevent corrosion on the inside of the engine. An unexpected secondary benefit was an increase in compression. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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The least-worst knuckle buster crescent wrench that I’ve ever found were those made by the Diamond Caulk Horse Shoe Company. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Whenever we glue two things together, we are trying to create a joint that will replicate the parent materials. The typical out comes are: (1) the joint is weaker than the original parent material (2) the overall item is now heavier than before (3) the item is both heavier and weaker It takes a very good adhesive, and a very well made joint to match - let alone exceed - the original parent material. It can be done, and is done. But it isn’t a particularly easy thing to do. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Metals corrode by oxidizing. It is reverting to its original ore. “The definition of corrosion is: metal, returning to its natural state.” Once we know that, we know that all metals, except gold, will corrode through oxidation. We cannot stop it, but we can slow it down. Aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, or ALOX. ALOX is an abrasive; a very good one, as it turns out. Much of the sandpaper that we buy says “ALOX” on it. If an aluminum carburetor corrodes, it produces that ALOX. That carburetor is the one thing that sends both fuel and air into an engine. If the carb has corroded, it will then deliver a great abrasive to the working parts of the engine. Nice, huh? Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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@savage22bolt32 G’day Savage. Wolf’s Head was also a Pennsylvania oil. A very good oil. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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G’day, Buff. I’m glad to hear that SOMEBODY has gotten good service from Duluth Trading’s pants. The 4 pairs that I bought did not last me long. I’ve tossed them out and moved on. Disappointing. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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You can decarbonize that engine by introducing a thin, controlled stream of just plain water into the air inlet too. It comes out in red hot chunks. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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My experience with green slime in bicycle tubes was an expensive disappointment. (1) If the air outside of a tube sets up the slime, then why does the air inside the tube not set it up? (2) The punctured area rotates around and around. The slime does too. But to work well, the puncture is supposed to be down, not up, where slime isn’t puddled. No way of telling where the puncture is, unless a nail (etc) is sticking out of the tire. (3) Slime does from a very poor job to absolutely nothing to seal a puncture. Maybe others have had better experience. I’d as soon carry a forked stick and wave it over a punctured tire. Much cheaper, same effect. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Get American pliers made by Channel Lock Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Bacon grease has salt in it. Salt will hasten corrosion INSIDE OF THE ENGINE! Using bacon grease in an engine is as bad as frying your eggs is S.A.E. 30 engine oil. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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When it takes but a few minutes to sharpen and balance a rotary blade on any standard bench grinder, this seems a pointless exercise. It’s kind of like testing to find the best drinking glass from which to have a drink of water. Does it make enough of a difference to spend the time to find out? Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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I do not have any hard evidence to either charge, or defend the Dyson Company. I do have a strong suspicious opinion, though. In my life, I have yet to discover a competitor who charges that large of an increase in price, and delivered a product that was that much better. Mind you, I’m not saying to buy the cheapest sample offered. I learned that lesson at about 14 years of age. I’m saying that a similar object that has an asking price of, say, 200% to 400% above market price range is likely to be highly, suspiciously, guilty of snob prices. Some people will buy it, others won’t. In a free market, both manufacturers AND customers are free to make their choices on quality, usefulness, and price. I’m in favor of that procedure. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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I used Camguard in an air cooled aircraft engine. It is supposed to prevent internal parts corroding over extended storage. It improved compression. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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Ethanol assists the folks who grow corn. Not much else. It requires more energy to produce it, than what it yields. It is foolishness, similar to spending all of your money to buy a billfold. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
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