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Rainman Ray's Repairs
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Comments by "" (@mph5896) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.
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Get that guy a Cobalt. Maybe that’s more in his Budget range
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Wonder if it was an internet/basement dweller that made that comment or a real life person😆
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I started working on a few of those Subarus as of recent. A couple friends cars. I can't believe how easy they are to wrench on.
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A Vw with broken plastic, imagine that🤣
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Unfortunately the housing is not usable in current form. Used or reman entire axle assembly is what will happen.
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Simple, tell service advisor cel was already on and for them to deal with the customer. Done...
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or a voltage drop from bat + post to starter lug. Volt dc setting and attempt to crank. Voltage should be very low. same with ground
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Yeah, guy is beyond ignorant if he thinks his 8-9 year old car is going to be lemon lawed. Car sounds/looks fixed to me. Keep driving it and move on with life.
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I would have gas tested it. That would have at least ruled that out.
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@dannylinc6247 First repair could have been perfectly done. Then with a fully functioning cooling system, the 15 yer old plastic tee that was brittle let go.
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Sometimes you gotta do what you Gotta do.
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@LeewardStudios You may have had a leak in the system or the seal on the radiator or tank was leaking. Never had an issue with mine besides 1 leaky system
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I can't tell you how many tips and tricks I have learned from South Main Auto. "MY GUY" is a master at rust and electrical diagnostics.
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Joseph Duda it needed control arms anyways. The ball joints would not stay in with a press fit, so he had to tack them
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@trevormangus7832 some do, some don’t. Dealer also sells components such as a pulley, clutch plate, clutch, but all combined equal an entire assembly. Since it was already aftermarket junk, I would not even bother trying for a clutch kit. It might not even go onto an aftermarket compressor.
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Sucks when you come up with a couple short and hope they did not go somewhere expensive.
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Auto mechanics/diagnosis is getting very complex. It takes a ton of skill/knowledge to fix these newer cars. Mechanics/techs can't always dial in and get it fixed right the first time. I work on cars, and also work in the medical field. Medical field is the same way. Plenty of comebacks.
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I have never torqued a drain plug with a torque wrench and never will.
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I used to do a TON of those LIM gaskets, coolant elbows, valve cover gaskets, upper plenums on the 3800 series 2 engines. I haven't seen one of those cars in my area (rust belt) in years.
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Engines have timing chain issues as well. I just did a friends kids car. Had a sloppy secondary timing chain, busted primary chain guide, plugged pcv port on the intake, bad cat and oil pan leak. $700 in parts and about 7-8 hours labor. Runs like a champ now.
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MattExzy it has an aftermarket block under the spring.
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Yikes. That could have been a simple bearing/seal job if they would have had it serviced when it started howling. Now its $$$. I guess winging in a salvage yard unit with some new seals in it will suffice.
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Yup. I would have just replaced the seal if could not or would not paid up for a quality part.
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IDK, I had a 2007 Tahoe with 230k and currently have a 2014 with 125k. I have to constantly tinker with them to keep them going.
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Best advice on buying a used car, buy a car in which they made a TON of them and they are common in your area. This is so you can actually get parts for it at a reasonable cost when the stuff breaks. And local mechanics know how to wok on the stuff since they have fixed that particular model in the past. I have a friends Infinity in the garage. I cant get aftermarket ball joints for it since they are built into the control arms. I need new control arms, but can only get OEM at a cost of $900 for the pair. Same with struts, it could use new struts, but I can only find OEM at a cost of $400 per strut. 🙄If it were a common Toyota or Chevy, I would be at $400 into parts as opposed to $1700.
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@Paulyy_D On a perfectly new system, yes. brittle 15-20 year old plastic will not hold up to 15 psi anymore.
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Honestly, I would pad slap those rotors. If they are OEM, they will be WAY better over any "new" rotor you put on there.
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@name-ob6np Doubt Brian would be doing a timing job on a 200k 5.4 3v. He would sell a reman engine.
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I have worked on a bunch of those f150/expeditions. Rubber hoses restrict and make it seem like a stuck caliper. Also those pads can be put in incorrectly. If they are, the caliper will hang up on the actual wheel
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Bunch of different possibilities. It does have a newish radiator cap on it. The old one may have not held a decent amount of pressure. Throw a new one on with the radiator job and its working properly again. Then the brittle plastic fitting lets go.
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@Bryan-Hensley You are correct. A stuck rich 02 sensor could cause an ecm to pull a lot of fuel from the engine. It would be nice to be able to see that data. BUT the coolant temp is setting a code. That sensor is critical along with the map on that engine for fueling. If the computer thinks the engine is -40, it will run really rich. If it thinks its 280f, it will supply less fuel. At least get that sensor working properly before moving on would be key.
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I’ll go with the manufacture of the tires recommendation of new tires in the rear.
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Machine shop around me would have it for 2-3 days. That is a no go. Get it best as possible and use an MLS gasket for any inconsistency.
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HA, to funny. I used to be the same way. Now if I did a repair on the cooling system I catch the old coolant in a bucket, run it through a paint strainer and reinstall it. Its to much effort to dispose of the old stuff properly. I'll change it out if its old and nasty.
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That Suburban needs lots of money spent on it. Trans is on its last leg, brakes pulsating, ac inop, lock cylinder, oil pressure switch. And I bet the fuel pump is sticking and in need of replacement. It was constantly running before with that jumper wire, let it sit shut off for awhile and it may intermittently not start up again (fuel pump).
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@CptSideSlider what ray is showing is cringeworthy. Nothing armchair about my comment. I just dropped a flex pipe for a ptu job. No drama, no broken studs. Done in a very reasonable time.
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@jeffmcgrath2202 Ray is an entertainer first, mechanic second today. I would say he is either breaking stuff on purpose for content, or very incompetent when it comes to basic skills such as removing an exhaust fastener. FYI, I have plenty of 10+ year old videos I posted on YouTube. Definitely not for entertainment, but to help out people. 😉
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Doesn't look like its necessary where he is from. Parts literally fall of tapping with a plastic hammer. Need a 50lb sledge and a torch to remove stuff from the north.
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Yeah, looks like the fan assembly and upper radiator hose is getting d/c to pull that alternator. That's pretty bad they declined the work😅. Any shop around me, they would be charging $800-1000 for that job.
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Ignorance is bliss. Guy got a free diagnostic labor repair for being ignorant on the matter.
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Wrenching on cars, the nuts and bolts part about it is easy. It's how you deal and overcome the problems you encounter that makes you a mechanic master or a rookie.
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Factory service information specifically states you need to torque the drain plug to 16.75 ft lbs with a Kmart beam torque wrench.
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CMP will not relearn with a cam code.
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Unfortunately, that repair adds the possibility of litigation on the shop. Headlights are a safety issue. If that repair failed, the headlights could go out and cause an accident. Thats a no go repair.
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Van made it to 250k, Its at the end of its life. Nothing shown on it looks rigged, just old with a few things needing attention. Prob not worth fixing the seepage on the power steering line/oil pan.
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@SouthMainAuto They have their boy scout soldering badge to prove it.
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GM used the 5.5mm to bolt the coils to the modules on the old stuff. 3100, 3800 v6
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Not sure why the customer did that BUT Its really not the first shops problem the car broke. Not really their responsibility to warranty the ladies entire cooling system. If the customer brought it back to the first shops, I could see the shop fixing it no charge for good will. BUT to cover another shops bill for something they didn't touch is not their fault. I get it, customer service with reviews today.🤨
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Anchor mounts, No thanks. I only cry once every time I buy OEM motor mounts.
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ITs already diagnosed with the chem test. No need to go any further.
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