Comments by "Bond25" (@Bond2025) on "Conquer Driving"
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@ConquerDriving My last 3 cars all had Normal/Comfort, ECO and full load. Petrol and diesels. ECO was 39psi, comfort/normal (up to 3 people) was 33psi and full load was about 44psi. Nothing about 4/5 people and full load.
When i picked the cars up from new they all had 39psi, each time i lowered it to 33psi the garage put it back to 39psi stating tyres were underinflated on the service!
33psi is OK, I used to get 55mpg in a diesel in town, but with a petrol get 33mpg, so very disappointing. The diesel went because the DPF kept blocking despite motorway runs (after 10,000miles) and the dealership set the car to regenerate every 300miles which caused more errors and wasted fuel, also caused more servicing and replacement of glowplugs etc.
39PSI does make the petrol car "bounce" and I every bump and lines on the road, it also feels better cornering at speed - but I never drive it to that extent, it can also mean more suspension damage over uneven roads with holes in as the tyre can't flex and absorb some impact, so you get a harsh thud. At 39psi it is more likely to just burst compared to 33psi.
There is NO difference to fuel economy between 33psi and 39psi in any petrol or diesel i have driven over the last 15years.
I still get the same readings. That is with different sized tyres on the cars.
The only safety difference is that 39PSI can prevent aquaplaning as experienced on motorways, this is due to less of the tyre being in contact with the road. If you run through standing water with 33PSI that tyre works so hard to displace all the water and can't. 39PSI alters the shape and contact and is more effective. Try it in heavy rain.
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Oh dear, another clueless boy racer! Who do you trust more - a company that spends millions on research and development, or a backstreet trader that makes wild claims in order to take your money? The best parts for the car are fitted when you buy it and you're not going to turn a 1.2 or 1.4 or 1.6 in to a racing car.
1. Increased fuelling. Absolute rubbish, you can't as the ECU stops this, so it doesn't matter what you think you are doing to the car or even what you try, it will still go back to what it should be based on the dynamic adjustment from sensor readings. Fuel rail pressures can be messed with using a cheap nasty "tuning box" often costing £400 even though it contains a simple voltage multiplier costing 23p! Those devices take NO input from the ECU or send info back, all they do is increase fuel pressure by a set amount. They go in series with the fuel rail and damage the engine, especially when cold and more diesel is sent in, the box causes even more to go in and causes smoke and clattering. You would need a proper ECU REMAP and who would you trust doing that? Some youtuber that just increases everything from standard without any real knowledge.
Don't forget, those companies will never pay up if you damage your engine! It is also possible to insurance and police investigators to find evidence of using such devices as that info can not be deleted from the ECU - it is accessed in investigations all the time.
Manufacturers also refuse to honour warranty claims and you void your insurance anyway.
2. The air intake! Biggest way to make money from fools is to sell them a tiny mesh/oil or foam filter that doesn't even filter and is a much smaller surface area than a paper filter, so ends up blocking up and degrading performance far quicker, plus it doesn't pass anywhere near the amount of filtered air to the engine. There is also a sales opportunity for cleaning solutions, you will have to clean it every few months. If you had a paper filter it could still pass more filtered air until it was nearly blocked. People will remove resonators due to not knowing what they do, they cancel out noise on the intake, they do not restrict anything. The pipes and inlet are the correct size and the standard system fitted to cars passes more air than the engine requires at full RPM.
3. The exhaust, another way to get money from gullible fools. You can spend what you like and it will make NO difference to performance. All it will do is make the car sound rubbish and everyone will look around thinking someone is driving with a hole in their exhaust and see a small car doing 20mph.
4. Suspension. Don't just throw kits on without getting the suspension geometry checked or you upset the handing. People are so clueless they call a DAMPER a shock absorber. The shock absorber on a car is the SPRING itself, the DAMPER is what keeps the wheel/tyre in contact with the road. Lowered suspension is bad on a family car as it can make handling unpredictable and is often the cause of many accidents. Lowering a ride height might look nice, but does nothing for handling.
Many boy racers grow out of it after being scammed for years. Many feel stupid after spending all that money for years and having a car that is slower and noisier than standard, plus costs more to insure and the handling is rubbish. Use the VW approach and fit a fake engine noise generator - in the Golf it has a thing called a SOUNDAKTOR under the bonnet to make the occupants hear the noise of a V8. Switch that off and the Golf sounds like any other car inside!
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