Comments by "John Cunningham" (@johncunningham4820) on "Project Farm" channel.

  1. This is called : " Todays Oils , for Yesterdays Cars " . STP and Bardahl had a similar product to the Lucas additive Long ago . Both adhered to metal so well that they would STAIN Stainless Steel . Permanently .
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  2. Oh . And there IS a Specific Product for Exhaust Systems and Mufflers . We call it Mani-Seal here in Australia . Reddish-Ochre colour , and Totally Heat resistant .
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  3. I have to admire your THOROUGHNESS when doing these tests . I realise Time constraints get in the way but Tapping or Die-ing needs Patience . Correct technique is 4 turns in and 1,1/2 back , to break the Swarf , so it clears . Was this done ? Or was this a " Destruction " test ? Just curious .
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  4. OH ! That is such a Great little Story . Hopefully he/she was able to Moult OK . They DO replace their Shell periodically .
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  5.  @tablature6121  . Yes , I know what Keratin is . Just learned something though . Being a Reptile I fully expected SOME kind of Molt process to accommodate Growth .
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  6. Alcohols are not Corrosive as such . They are however , a different category of Solvent when compared to Petrol/Gasoline . I have liked using E-10 periodically , say every three fills , for Decades . The Hydrophilia of it keeps Water out of your Fuel System . Takes it out the Exhaust pipe .
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  7. So when are you taking the Buggy to Willowbank ? lol . Well executed Comparison .
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  8. I totally admire your THOROUGHNESS and Scientific Method on your Testing . Rain -X , the original and way the best Value ,
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  9. The Colour Difference of the Drained Oil is significant . Slick50 engine Oil was virtually Black . The two Mowers are NOT identical I noticed . What was the Age of them each ? The one that got the Slick50 looked the newer . Maybe the Slick50 was helping as a Run-in Oil ? Did run cooler . But so would a Newer Engine . Two scenarios here . 1 ; Slick50 is an excellent CLEANER but not necessarily a better lubricant . Or , 2 ; The newer engine was still too tight to run long Un-lubricated . Older Engines are actually more tolerant to that . Myth Busted I guess . Ideally , should have been Two Brand New identical machines .
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  10. The Stretchier the Rope , the Better for all the other Hardware . Snatch Straps/Ropes are not meant for 100's of cycles of use . Very much appreciate your usual thoroughness in testing .
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  11. I would go for the Rada , for tidying up the Edge and a 3/8 inch X 8 inch piece of Square High-Speed Steel as a Hone . Hand Steeling . Like Whetting , dry . Actual Hand Sharpening does require " Feel " certainly , but can produce the Best Result too .
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  12. This is something I have done for ever . Every 4th Oil change . Complete 100% fill with Diesel Fuel . 15-20 minutes FAST idle . 1500-2000 rpm . IMPORTANT ! ZERO LOAD ! Simply operating . Diesel needs to get hot enough to Drain well . Allow to drain for an hour and then put in your Fresh Premium Oil and a New Filter . Doesn't affect longevity at all and DOES clean everything very well . NO LOAD DURING THE PROCESS .
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  13. I know for a fact that Water does clean the Engine . However , the water needs to be SPRAYED in . Atomised to some extent . Also , Three Gentle Sprays , then a 5 second pause , and repeat for about 1 hour .The Drip feed is what caused the Oil pronlem .
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