Comments by "" (@tommurphy4307) on "Does Pre-FILLING The Oil FILTER Cause Engine DAMAGE?" video.

  1. the only thing that was proven is the fact that pre-filling the oil filter makes pressure more quickly upon startup. if it makes you feel better- good for you.
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  2. geez- thats a no-brainer. just fill the filter, let it sit for a few minutes, dump out the extra oil and make sure the seal ring is oily, and screw it on. just make sure the pan plug is in before filling. sounds easy, right?
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  3. i've built 180-cubic-inch V6 motors that have made 275bhp- with a slightly massaged holley model 4412 2-barrel carb- and all motor. lets see mr. goodwrench do THAT.
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  4. i would have learned when i was a kid, too, but all my bikes had 2-stroke motors.
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  5. some guys pick up the habit just thru common sense.....
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  6. i would say your logic and methods do make a difference for off-road motors with increased oil clearances, but in a street motor, you are just staying on the safe side and could very well just be wasting your time- which is ok if you've got the extra time.
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  7. why on earth would anyone change the oil in a brand-new toyota?
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  8. they do it that way to keep the showroom floors cleaner... @JetFire9 
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  9. if you are doing a turbocharged street motor the after-cooler/oiler is an absolute must- especially the smaller IHI units which are more vulnerable to shutdown damage.
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  10. the word you seek is 'coking'.....carmelizing sounds like making an entree on the stove @paulricketts1089 
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  11. not really- a hot turbo can turn its oil into coke and turbos don't like that- it happens primarily after shutdown. @ProudDad1976 
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  12. mobil 1 is a rip-off even at club stores. i use bulk castrol GTX i get from my dealer service department right out of the overhead gun- way cheaper than a name-brand synthetic, but you kind of have to know somebody there.
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  13. of course its possible- most road racers have manual switches controlling the current ground of the coil. the operator can crank until oil pressure is sensed and then flips the switch to light it off. for most carbureted applications, the fuel need not be disabled as long as the operator doesn't romp on the accelerator pump like an idiot. make sure you give the unfamiliar operator a heads-up or in-service so you don't have to deal with a flooded fuel system/run late for warm-up.
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  14. not in race motors- i have a whole box of check balls/springs from the engines i've built- as well as a box of welch plugs..... the 'valve' you speak of is just a metal ball actuated by a bi-metallic spring which usually has some kind of bleed capability so it allows a bit of flow.
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  15. probably a good idea for crappy blocks. when you inspect for metal- inspect for stray casting sand in the filter media while youre at it and you'll see that GM blocks are the WORST
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  16. the bearing shell/journal clearances are all pretty much the same for all motors regardless of when they were built. the newer, finer weights of motor oil are for the lifters- not the cam lobes or bearing shell/journal clearances.
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  17. time for a new one cuz toyota doesn't think you need parts anymore
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  18. i would say chuck the $2 crush washer and in its place use a plain copper washer instead. you can always resurface the washer if it gets gouged/scratched up. this can save $20 or more over the life of your motor. check with your counterman he may have that washer in stock and theyre usually cheaper than the crush-type, sheet-metal washer.
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  19. dontcha hate the sound of your crank rattling? me, too.
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