Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Project Farm" channel.

Yes even the cheap kits are stronger than the parent metal, especially in aluminium alloys, as long as there is enough metal left around to spread the load. Also works for fasteners that are removed very often, so is very common in avionics as well to have 300 inserts in a unit to hold the screws that are used for hermetic covers, and on aero engines as well, in the assorted aluminium castings. Just have to use the right recommended corrosion treatments when assembling them.
17
They probably look forward to them, a change from the hundreds of normal tests to see if a truck engine oil is still usable for the next 10k miles, or is it time to change it.
7
Use a DOT5 brake fluid will work, as it has a very high boiling point, and is silicone based as well and will not do much to the seals aside from swell them slightly. DOT4 and lower however are basically alcohols and glycols, which is pretty much a solvent instead.
4
Yes, they last well there, and as a bonus the connection is always stronger than the parent thread.
3
Just add water to the oil and you make your own in seconds. Or buy anything with a 1950' design V8 in it and it will do the same in short order.
3
@consaka1 Basically a specially machined bolt and nut, with 2 ends, where one end is the minimum size for that particular thread diameter and pitch, used to check the thread is not oversize, and is the go size, in that it must fit without binding, and must be firm with no wobble. The other side is cut to the maximum diameter, at least just past the first few turns, and should engage a turn or so, so that you are sure the thread is not oversize as it stops going in. For the nuts the first is the maximum diameter, and all bolts should fit with no slop, and the other side is the minimum, and it should not go onto the bolt after the first turn or so. Unfortunately precision parts, and you need one of each double ended tool, per fastener pitch and diameter, so these are not common, normally used only for very close tolerance work where you are running the fasteners at a very close tolerance and at a very high loading. you normally see them in aviation maintenance, where they are used when rebuilding airframe and engines, to determine whether a fastener, which is normally an expensive part, as the cheap (under $5 each) fasteners are simply regarded as a part you throw away each time. These are for the more expensive ones, where you will use the gauge to check the fastener, and the hole, are still within tolerance, so as to allow them to be reused. $500 gauge, used to check a $1000 plus bolt, and the gauge itself has to be calibrated and certified annually, or more often, depending on use. Half of an aircraft repair facility toolbox is special measuring tools, so they use a Snap On toolbox, as that is often the cheapest single part in that tool box. Spanners have serial numbers in a lot of cases.
3
@ProjectFarm My cheapest ones were actually US standard sizes, they had not moved off the shelves for 40 years, since the country went metric, so were finally on sale, for only double of the price in 1970, so I picked all of them they had up. Only 3 sets, but covered all the US standard sizes I used on US built machinery, 1/4, 5/8 and 7/16 standard thread. Also got the 7/16 die nut, so I could make the shear pins that used that thread, instead of ordering them, at a ruinous price. 1metre of 12mm stainless steel hex stock made a large number of those shear pins for use. Machining the pins, plus the tooling, came to the cost of only 1 pin, and I got over 20 of them, with bar left over.
3
Will work for a very short time till it polymerises. even worse will be linseed oil, that stuff will turn into varnish when hot. However castor oil is a very good lubricant, though strip and overhaul intervals will be measured in hours as it leaves so much gum. Grows wild here, the berries are plentiful, but I am not going to process them, I like living.
3
Timesert kit then, as they can be threadlocked into the hole, and also have threads that deform to lock them in. Helicoils you can use loctite to add extra grip, just have to clean insert and hole thoroughly, and use 603 oil resistant lock on it. Insert, then wash again to remove excess, or you will never get the bolt out again.
2
@jpikl1284 Still will hold out, as the larger diameter thread into the parent metal resists the pull, plus it is spread out over a larger area of the very hard wire.12.9 grade yes it will still rip out, but at a much higher load, and you can always use a much longer insert or multiple inserts, as I have done on deep holes.
2
@midnitesquirldog1 Octane booster on the cheap is 10% plain pure methanol, it ups the octane, but does horrid things otherwise. Try to buy aviation spirit, it is 100 octane minimum, but also does funky thing to your engine. We did get a little Passola bike up to over 120kph before the engine seized solid.
2
@jusb1066 Was common to add the peels to differentials to stop the while for a time, as they made the oil inside a lot thicker and more of a gap filler, stopping gear to gear contact till they disintegrated.
2
@ProjectFarm Just remember your cold pour test might take a while, like pouring cold tar.
2
You can do it, I have used epoxy to repair threads, and you can get one or three removal cycles out of it, though best is to wipe the bolt down with silicone oil before putting it in, or use some spray on anti weld splatter spray, and wipe most of it off.
1
Well the castor oil bean does grow wild here, along with the banana, but I know which one I would rather eat.
1
@macgyveratlarge2133 That is why I said 10k, because here that equates to a week of driving between 2 major centres at the regulated speed and regulated hours. you probably want to check the truck at least once a week, because your driver pretty sure is not going to do that. He gets in starts and moves.
1
@macgyveratlarge2133 You are in the USA, I am not. There are large differences between countries and operators. Some hire people off the street to drive, others actually test them even though they have a CDL, some are owner operators. You see a vast difference though, from a small single truck operator who has a shiny well maintained 50 year old Deutz, to a fleet of poorly maintained Actros's, some maintain so that rarely break down, others do it on the "when it stops" basis.
1
Well, at least you can say it was "Head and Shoulders" the worst lubricant around. Now try some good old fashioned coal tar shampoo, the stuff that does not have any fragrance aside from what can be best described as pure crude oil with a touch of smoke thrown in. At least that will fix the compression again as it carbons up the rings.
1
Most of the variation is probably batch differences, as they mostly are all differentiated by the wrap, the internals are made by a few large companies who contract manufacture them, branding at customer order, though there is a difference in capacity depending on customer order as to how much inert filler is blended into the paste they use.
1
Waxoyl yes, but almost as good is plain old linseed oil and kerosene mixed. Works almost as well, but a whole lot cheaper and you can apply it liberally all over, and with a plain spray washing gun get it in all the cavities in the vehicle. Drawback is it will drip for weeks afterwards, so either park outside on the dirt, or put a big used cardboard drip catcher under the car. I love Waxoyl and Tectyl for rust prevention.
1
Wrong part of the banana, you use the peels instead of the inner part.
1
The graphite works, used old vanes from an oil less pump, as they are graphite in some models. Tried it using acetic acid to free up a very rusted 25mm micrometer, got it eventually after about 6 hours to the point I could start to move the barrel and eventually dismantle it and clean it. Full of pitting and marks from the rust, and the rachet at the top rusted away completely, but was able to assemble it again into working condition. Now it lives in an oil bath in the box, so it will not corrode again
1
Just remember that there are multiple formulations for hot melt glue, and that often it is hard to tell them apart as they look the same, are the same mass and even have very similar softening temperature ranges. This also does very from batch to batch, especially on the cheaper ones where the repacker who assembles the retail packs will often just buy a glue on price and, provided it meets the diameter and length required for the pack, and melts within the required range, it can vary quite a lot as the suppliers have excess of one or the other more specialist product that they want to sell for a low price, or have a batch that did not meet the more stringent tests for the speciality professional market. I know from working with local glue suppliers that they have over 100 different glue sticks available, almost all of them having diameters that fit the most popular glue dispensing systems, and with some being almost indistinguishable from each other in melting point, but having vastly different uses and chemical make up. For sticking things like cardboard and paper though pretty much any one will do, but some of there are designed for good adhesion to glass and others are for mirrors, where you do not want any attack of the silver backing long term.
1
Would add the helicoil and clones are really good, but the timesert is the best for handling pressure and liquid. Would say that for the tension tests you really need to not use cheap bolts, but go instead for capscrews with a rolled thread, as I have found the 8.8 capscrews are stronger than the helicoil inserts, and will actually pull them out before the bolt fails. If you go to a M10 thread, go and buy from Ford CVH engine head bolts, as those are incredibly tough, as they are designed to have the shank stretch, but not the threads. New ones should easily be capable of doing the insert to destruction, as the recommended method to repair damaged threads on the block is to tap down to the base of the hole in the block, and run in a few inserts, or a very long one, to provide a large grip area, which will never let go, the bolt itself will snap first, though the torque to do that is to go to 90Nm, then a full turn and a half, instead of 2 90 degree turns in sequence. I have used those bolts a lot in machinery, to have a really good high strength connection, though normally regular high tensile nuts are not up to the task, always have threaded the steel to take the bolt instead.
1
NGLI 0 grease will work, it is pumpable and pretty runny. I used it in 3mm ( 1.16in dia) piping as machinery lubricant, and it was very easy to pump through long pipes, here with splash lube it will work as it will liquify under the shear. Using a NGLI2 or higher grease will just spin a coat on the sump sides and do no lubrication though, a NGLI 1 grease might still work when hot. NGLI 0 grease looks and flows like really old oil even when new, and is runny like honey.
1
@ProjectFarm Beware of the spambot with a phone number pretending to be you, using your channel logo.
1
Graphite can actually increase wear though, especially in bearings, as there is a good chance it contains hard crystals of either calcite, silica or other hard minerals from where it was formed underground from coal deposits. Fine though on slide applications like soft bearings, as the particles embed themselves, and the graphite smears to lubricate and make a film. Only real use is as a conductive lubricant, as it will not allow any static charge to build up in use.
1
Do not think you want to try the oil for piston engine aircraft. That looks like thick syrup when cold, and only gets worse when frozen. You almost have to use a spatula when cold, but after the engine is warm it runs like water. Jet engine lubricant is more of a hydraulic fluid, it has to work well over an extreme range of temperatures, as it will be used both in freezing places, like actuating the cylinders that are on the wings, and the same fluid will also be in the engine cooling down parts that are at 1000 C on the one side, but have to stay cool, so the fluid has to absorb that heat safely. Works because the flow rates there are kept high, so the oil can be moved to a heat exchanger to dump the heat fast. The fluid is also regularly sampled, so that wear particles can be examined, so the condition of the whole system is kept good, plus the filtering is very good to keep particulates down to a very low level. Just do not get it on your skin, the additive packs in jet fluid are very toxic in a lot of cases, and it is incredibly hard to remove from skin without very aggressive scrubbing and lots of harsh soap, and clothing soaked in it is almost impossible to clean without boiling for hours in industrial detergent solution.
1