Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs"
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Center piece is there to keep the coupling from collapsing, easier to make it a separate part, than the make the more expensive mould, that you would need to have the polymer injection work, and not fill it with the green damper as well. Solid center on the mould to hold the part in place for the second run, making alignment easier for the robotic arm placing it in position. Likely made on a fully robotic plant, so as to keep consistency, and only a few workers who take the finished parts, do a final fettling and QC check, then place it in the bag, seal it, and apply the label for it.
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My father had a garage in Central Africa. He had a customer who would send his Citroen 900 miles, on the back of a heavy duty truck, for every service. Truck needed because the roads in the wet season (half the year) were impassable for any passenger vehicle, even the Deux Cheval, with it's impressive off road handling. You are not going to drive when the mud is deeper than the height of the vehicle, and going off road involved a few axes to remove the trees, and possibly blasting as well, for the more obstinate ironwood and other hard wood trees. Dry season you has dry rutted road, which is why so much went via rail. Freight in very cheap, deadheading on the cars coming in to load up on copper anodes for export. Now they go via truck, and come down to South Africa to get to port.
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Diesel oil in a petrol engine is fine, the extra detergent will remove a lot off sludge and varnish off the engine, though you would be advised to do a second change of oil and filter after a short interval, probably around 300 to 500 miles, as the oil filter will be full of all the sludge and junk removed if this is the first time. Lots of farmers only keep one oil on the farm for all vehicles, and it will be for the diesel engines, the rest get the exact same oil. Knew one who when we looked into the cover that top end looked like it was barely out of the factory, despite the vehicle, VW Golf, having been driven for over 200 000km already, and it had been getting farm oil changes only for the last 3 years or so, being a second hand vehicle bought for the son, and had come with a lot of sludge in it. 20W50 was the oil needed, but all got the same SAE30 HD3 diesel oil, that arrived there in 55 gallon drums.
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Had a similar thing, except the refill was a blend of colas into the tank, to get enough to get to the shop down the hill, where water was available. Sad thing was that there was an urgent "DO This NOW" recall for the hoses, and the vehicle had been at the dealer for a month already for other things ( minor things, like oil leaks, seat failures, failed electronic modules), but the urgent recall was not done, despite the hoses having been sent already to do it. You know you have a lemon when the dealership people thought i worked there, because i dropped it off so often, and also that it had it's own demarcated parking bay, right by the office in the workshop, right at the front of the long rows of Freelanders, all stripped, awaiting new engines and transmissions to arrive.
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Yes, and the 70 plus reading is probably from a failed pressure transducer that lost a bond wire off the MEMS sensor, giving a more than full scale high output, which the ECM interprets as over 70PSI, as that is the full scale range it has. Tiny little 3mm by 3mm silicon sensor in there, made from 2 wafers that were bonded together under high vacuum and heat, and with the middle having a small cavity etched in the silicon, and on top a set of diffused strain gauges that measure the flex of the silicon, plus a diode that is used to compensate for temperature.
Absolute, so the cavity is a vacuum, otherwise the ones meant for gauge pressure have the bottom silicon wafer have a hole etched through to allow connection to the other side of the thin diaphragm, and these then get bonded to a reference port. Yes a fab that costs billions of dollars to build, and almost as much to operate, but the sensors coming out are in the cents price each, due to the massive volumes made. Make the sensor a little larger and you can integrate the entire electronic system on it as well, and by making the membrane thinner you make a MEMS microphone, that can be placed in a phone, and give you a complete microphone and conversion electronics, giving direct to digital output, only needing 3 connections to the outside, and capable of handling from a whisper to a scream.
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Yes, did my drivers with a Datsun 680 pick up, with column shift, all 4 speed and reverse on the tree, and with the full Nautilus package, of no power steering and drums all round. Then owned a VW Beetle, same thing, just gearshift on the floor. Currently drive manual as well, simpler to maintain, no trans fluid to get dirty and die, and a clutch is cheap as well.
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Yes a much better option over a 100A relay, that will both not be rated for full time operating, and also as they normally come with always being able to remove the key in the off position, it is easy to see when the key is in use, and also have a convenient way to disable the system when not in use. Though if you are putting in the deep cycle batteries a much better option is to get a dual charge controller, and leave them always in circuit and charging when the truck is running, so you will both never have them not get a charge, but also they cannot discharge through the truck itself if the main battery is flat for some reason. 150A dual charge controller, that attaches in the lead out of the alternator, and gives 2 heavy duty feeds, one per battery, will work much better, and less problems. Will still be a good idea to have a disconnect switch there though, inside the box, just in case, and also a 120A fuse in the battery lead for protection. Car audio can supply all these parts, just beware of the cheap ones with CCA wire leads.
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Yes exactly that, granite floor tile (not reconstituted quartz stone, but the real cut out of a mountain slab, and checked for it being optically flat) on a plywood base, and it works for me as a good enough for the stuff I do block. Got a second one just in case, that is still not used, but there are 2 granite offcuts, counter top reconstituted stone, that I use for a mouse pad. Big, heavy, works well with optical mice, and does not move, plus easy to clean. A third gravestone offcut, mostly polished before it cracked, got repurposed, along with a dial indicator stand I got cheap, as a microscope stand. Reminds me of the optical test benches, which used a massive granite block beam for the frame, for rigidity and temperature stability.
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I guess his parts store is local to him, and has deliveries out 3 times a day, so as to allow this. By me that would be a guy on a bike, something small, around 80cc, and with a driver who occasionally uses the road to drive on. As we joke, the biggest biker gang in the country is the 60-60 gang, which delivers for the one nationwide chain. My friend knows all the drivers in her area by name, and they greet her all over as well. They get around $1 per delivery, so do around 60 deliveries a day, but do not own the bikes, so maintenance is not their problem, though fuel is.
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Having come close to clocking one, yes that is a good thing. though that was the least worry of that night, further on came across a hippo, and definitely did not want to be involved with that. Emergency stop, and a very rapid reverse, because a hippo is quite capable of biting thorugh sheet metal of a car, or even biting through the radiator as well. Hitting not good either, 2 tons plus of by now very unhappy critter sitting on your lap, and they are, despite the massive bulk, both very fast and very agile. Elephants give them a wide berth, along with rhinos, and crocodiles, and all of those are very capable of defending themselves.
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Oh yes, please remember to get your shop a Recoil/ Helicoil set, with a pack of 50 M6x1mm by 1.5 length inserts, because you will be needing it for the Rubasoo timing belt covers, as those little M6 bolts get stripped out by the dealerships going in with the ugga dugga method, and tear the threads loose. Done a good number of Recoil inserts into either aluminium alloy valve covers, or on VW carburettors, where the centre bolt comes stripped, and there is only room to do the Recoil insert. Drill down deep, and put in 2 of the 6mm inserts, to get enough thread engagement to keep it from stripping out, and clean the hole, plus use green oil resistant threadlock on both insert and the stud.
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Because the manufacturer gets one fewer oil change they are required to do under warranty, and they also know the vehicle will be traded in at a big discount for a new one, right at that time, so will be either exported or scrapped. Export it likely will fail soon after, but again not the manufacturer problem, out of warranty, and then they get to sell a new engine. The less oil changes in warranty the lower total cost of ownership they can prove, so they will go for 20 000km or 25 000km soon, knowing full well the engines will self destruct typically at around 200 000km, outside of warranty, which is typically 120 000km or 5 years by me, though some only are 80 000km or 3 years for some models. Only manufacturer that offered a 1 million km 12 year warranty is Chery, on the top range hybrids, wonder how that is going to turn out.
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@bobbykozak6032 Works well, and braze adheres to cast iron well if it is clean, and you use a decent flux. Yes it will melt if the exhaust gets hot enough, but running a cast manifold at red heat is already a serious fault in the engine.
Did see that once on an Atlantis diesel, we guessed that truck, with the coolest part of the exhaust being the tip at dull red, with some really nice Mach diamonds, would not make it to the top of the hill. Turbo was white hot, bright enough to actually cast a shadow in the twilight, and was visible to us from 2km away as a bright light. Engine was breathing well, and no shortage of fuel either, though that turbo was likely also acting like a combustion chamber of engine oil.
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@EudesRJ Saw a fluke 77 the council arctricians attempted to measure the voltage on the primary side of a transformer, and applied 11kV AC to the input side. Meter stopped working, and the inside of the case was nicely coated with a thin film of copper, evaporated from all the PCB traces on the board of the meter below the display. Display still worked, placed in another meter to test, as that one had a cracked display, from the same group of low IQ techs, and the 9V battery was also placed there, and was fine. 11A fuse was the only intact fuse, the other 440mA fuse got blown, with the rest of the carnage, as the plasma arced through the inside of the case. However nothing escaped blast wise, very tough cases they have. Meter leads were a lot shorter from the arc as they got close, well cooked and in any case they had already broken the probes off, using the bare cores of the wire instead.
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Still got the Gedore socket set I bought when I was 18, and it still has all the sockets and drivers, though I did add in both a wobble extension, and a regular swivel as well. Got a toolbox with the rest of the sockets i got over the years. Most used though is a cheap Chinese special, on sale because it did not come with a 13mm socket, so my father bought it, and simply added a 13mm Gedore socket in he picked up on a flea market. Tough set, been abused a lot, and aside from scratches nothing else damage wise, just keep the ratchets lubricated, and clean then every so often.
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At least this did not involve removing the engine to get to it. Oh yes you can see where the wires go to, but to get there you drop the engine out, and then remove a few minor parts, inlet, exhaust, couple of shields, then you can change it, only 2 bolts and a almost welded together connector, plus a bolt for the battery connection. Mercedes with the A class, where remove engine is standard, for things like changing oil filter and plugs. Undo 4 bolts and place engine in service position using MB special tool, or a jack and block of wood.
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Yes but the bearing is only a tiny bit cheaper than the whole assembly, and once you take into account the 15 minutes of time to press it out and the new one in, it is cheaper to replace the whole thing. Yes doing it yourself the labour cost is lower, but Ray has to make a profit on the job, and the 30 minutes to swap versus spending 30 minutes on another billable job, is making replace the whole thing look a lot cheaper. I have done a repack on noisy ones, but once noisy the bearings are already toasted, but more grease from new will help with longer life. Bearing packer that gets the extra bit past the seals works well, especially on ZZ bearings where that is just a dust seal, and not so well on RR ones, where you might pop the seal getting more in.
Have done gearbox bearings, where the new ones came in as RR, and I removed the inner seal, so the gearbox oil could lubricate the bearing as well, much better life over the original. Those with an outer seal both got removed, so the seal got lubrication.
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So, if you are in an area that is prone to flooding and storm damage, get out of there. If you are in an area with high elevation, and does not get storm surges and flooding, get yourself stocked up, put storm shutters on, and strap down things that will blow away, and help those who are going to get washed out. It would be good to keep water, spare fuel, a generator and fuel, and probably also a month's worth of dry food there, along with a few spare mattresses and bedding, plus some old clothing, because you are going to be a shining beacon of salvation to the area. Let the neighbours move cars to high ground, and lett them stay with you as well.
Above all don't be a Karen. Be kind, be polite, and keep a pack of candles handy, along with waterproof matches. Plus a few packs of tea candles, because that, plus a bit of stiff wire, can be used to heat a can of beans in emergency.
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@RainmanRaysRepairs LOL, better than a narrow minded "name the party" person. And yes very likely those corn dogs do suck, mostly because they are both mass made, and also probably have sat in a warmer for 2 days already. Should come visit by me, you can find out that fuel station convenience stores can actually have good food, because here the biggest differentiation for fuel stations is the store, due to fuel price, and full service, being regulated. Only thing they compete on is location and service. Best coffee I ever had, being made to the same standard, was at a fuel station, getting there for the first brew of the day, in clean cups, and a totally clean brew machine. They also do pretty good fast food as well.
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Yes, and as the vacuum cleaner is a bog standard Karcher unit the vacuum pump assembly is also a very cheap item, and easy to replace. Just a non standard bucket with the added mesh inside and the media removal port. But the rest looks like off the shelf, so the wheels, which are always the first thing to go on these, are a very cheap and easy fix. Pop off the broken one, and press on the new ones. Plus also get a spare filter, as that one will get dirty with carbon build up, and they are washable, but having a spare one around means no downtime while it sits in a bucket of engine degreaser overnight, and then is left to dry for a day.
Ray should get a set of them to keep, because, in a garage use, they wear fast. But buying another identical Karcher will also have as a bonus the tools it comes with, which includes the crevice tool, which is ideal to remove the media in the inlet, after a little work with a plastic welder to make it a little shorter and skinnier, and it plus right on the hose end. Plus also can be used to clean engines, and cars, unlike blowing air and sending stuff flying, it pulls it all into the bag.
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Bypass filter with only 2 lines, oil from pump, and oil return to block. Needs to have a third line to return the bypassed and filtered oil to the sump, because all that does is have 2 filters in parallel, so in reality you can put 2 of the finer filters in, and still get full flow, as the drop across them will be a lot lower due to the lower flow. Plus really needs as well a differential pressure switch or gauge, to light up and show you time to replace the filter, before you get low oil flow and pressure in the engine. Does need calibration, using a graph of flow across the filter versus blockage, or using minimum oil pressure at idle versus turn off pressure of the oil light, so that when drop gets within 5PSI of turning the oil light on you get a light to change filters.
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Still plenty of those running around by me, in various stages of body ventilation. All the way from being near showroom condition, to those held together with body putty, to those that are rust in close formation, but still the engine and drivetrain are going, even if the whine of the diff is loud enough to let you hear it coming a few blocks away, and the stop at the fuel pump is to fill up the oil, and check the fuel, because the gauge stopped working in 1999, and ever since then the standard has been to have a 5l oil in the cab, and another 5l with diesel or petrol for the tank.
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30 odd starts with no run will take any battery out to below start level, especially if the car has been sitting for a while, and the battery already was low from not running. Newish clean battery, though checking electrolyte level would also help, and topping up, but a nice equalising charge will work wonders on it. At least GM on my car did a lot of work on battery maintenance, it does a top up after starting, and then drops down to an equalising charge, and every few cycles does a desulphating charge, though I do have to watch electrolyte level and top up. Sealed for life battery just means it fails outside warranty, because the cells are all dry.
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Funny enough we call the one neighbour's car the Valdez as well, though that one is called the Laurel Valdez, as he generally fills it up with kerosene, not the diesel the manufacturer designed the vehicle for. Thus it leaks a little, oil, water, kerosene, and possibly brake fluid and transmission fluid as well, though hard to see against the big pool of oil and kerosene it deposits where it parks, leaving a visible pool on the floor. Laurel as that is a trade brand of one of the suppliers of illuminating kerosene, which is a little cheaper than diesel. Of course he has to let the car warm up, at a minimum of 15 minutes, and it apparently also has to idle when he washes it, to prevent the water getting into the engine.
Only good thing is it will probably never rust, though the alternator is having a hard life, swimming in fluids is not exactly good for it, as proved by it needing to be jump started recently, a few times, and a dragging starter as well, for the same reason.
As to doing it twice, that was me Monday, changing the timing belt on my car. Did it so well i did it twice, because after the first 20 minute struggle with the tensioner, no way to set it other than brute force, we were one tooth out, so, with the experience from the first time, it was done again, and this time the marks all aligned after the belt was on, and still so after 4 times around the combustion cycle to get the marks we put on the belt again to line up. Belt changed at only half of it's life, because a mystery screw, that must have been rattling up top for the last 30 000km, finally made it's way into the cambelt housing, and landed up carving a horrid notch in the belt when it landed up at the bottom. Plus replaced original serpentine belt and the very noisy idler it had on there, as they came off, so new was cheaper to put back on.
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Was doing that this weekend, not to replace the struts, but to replace the top mount, as the one was noisy, so both spent a few minutes out of the car, and the compressors were used for the 30 second swap action required. New ones mean the springs are now at the right height, as the old ones had collapsed about 30mm on each side. no more noises now, along with the cleaning of the carburettor and adjusting mixture as well. This weekend the water pump and thermostat are going for a change, standard VW Golf service part, easier to do the lot than the parts, 4 bolts as opposed to 15.
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Especially extended warranty on things like household goods and electronics. Here there is a statutory one year warranty on all new goods, and thus the warranty company knows that, in year one, where most factory defects will show up, they will use the factory claim process, and not actually have to cover anything. Then for say the common 2 year extended warranty they know there will be little claims, all of them invariably from the owner doing something wrong, or from the manufacturer doing a recall, and thus again no payout, or only part payout. Basically the extended warranty is almost useless, because it either will not cover all parts, or will not cover labour, or will have hoops that are near impossible to jump through to get it right.
Knew a salesperson at one of these places, and half of his commission came from the selling of these, for the above reasons, they were a massive profit for the selling dealers.
Cars the same, sold used with a limited warranty, and if there is a balance of factory that will do for a lot, so the extended warranty is there as a way to make profit, because the dealership gets the sales commission up front, after the new owner has paid 3 months of premiums, and then the owner is paying off this warranty at whatever interest rate for the full period. So whatever was down on paper as the amount of the extended warranty the buyer now pays at least double that over the life of the loan, and every month as well pays a "facilitation fee" of some sort, again a profit, for the extended warranty, plus a charge for taking the payments.
If you have to loan to buy, but not the highest you can afford, and buy cheaper, and for as short a period as you can, and with as big a deposit as you can. That makes it easier to finish the loan, and have the car serviced, and keep it for as long as possible. Having a car loan for 7 years, on a vehicle already 5 years old, in say the rust belt, where the chances of the entire bottom rusting out before that 7 years are up, is very high.
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Well, Fiat is known for great mechanical design, impeccable precision in the components, and assembly by whoever was walking past the factory that morning who could not run fast. Also repair does always involve a lot of talking, shouting, and expletives in Italian, along with a lot of hand waving, and the obligatory garlic bread, a few bottles of Vino, and an afternoon siesta as well.
Best thing is the brakes are good, as Italian roads are rather well known for the designers being, unlike their Roman ancestors, completely against anything like straight lines.
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Pulley diameter not really going to do much, slightly lower RPM on the compressor, so slightly lower flow, so slightly lower cooling efficiency in traffic at idle. Belt tensioner will easily take up the extra throw with no problem.
AFAIK the variable displacement system is a bolt on, that simply bleeds back from the hot high pressure back to the input, so as to allow modulation of the flow from the compressor to allow control, so it will, with no power applied, default to full flow of the system, so putting it in and not connecting will do nothing. The lower RPM will also help, so full flow will be at higher RPM slightly, probably just off idle, and the system will then simply act as a regular unit. Variable displacement works with electronic expansion valve, allowing control of evaporator pressure so as to allow simpler orifice plate expansion, and strict control over high side pressure using a pressure transducer in the high side, so you need less power to run AC at full power when off idle, improving fuel economy.
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@bobbg9041 Not in the USA but by me there are only a few companies that recycle batteries. They take them, split out the acid for cleaning and reuse, and the same for the lead and the plastic of the case. The paste from the cells also gets reground. Then they make new cases from a blend of old reground PVC case and new, which are black. White cases are all new plastic. The lead is melted down, mixed with new, and cast into the plates and terminals, and then pasted and placed into new separators, then assembled into cells. Acid is filled, a mix of old filtered acid and new, which by me is a product from recycling mine dump waste.
Some batteries are imported, but a lot of car manufacturers buy locally made, and they also specify the quality they want, so yes they are different, even if supplied by the same manufacturer, and they are sold aftermarket as well, though at a much higher price than what the OEM price is to a vehicle manufacturer.
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The flush is needed because the bean counters wanted the least number of oil changes that would get 99.5% of engines out of warranty without them grenading, as the cost of doing those changes could be a negative factor in TCO during warranty. By me now the warranty is still enforced, even if you do not go the stealership route, so long as the service station is registered with the RMI, and stamps the book, the warranty has to be honoured. Losing stealerships the gravy of doing oil changes, charging the customer for oil, plugs, filter, fuel filter, air filter, pollen filter and a 100 point inspection (then claiming all that extra back from warranty from the OEM), while in reality only doing oil and possibly filter change, then pocketing the extra. Oil change because it is the only thing easy to check, unless you have no dipstick, in which case they might only reset the service light, and clean the car, as you cannot check without removing covers and draining the oil.
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Would add a mechanical thermostat to the radiator, and put in a thermal switch there, that allows the fan controller to only get power when radiator temperature is above 150F, which will allow them to run on for a while when the engine is turned off, allowing the engine to cool down and not heat soak. Under $10 on the river store, and with a 25A rating from Senasys, which will handle the load of controlling the temperature sensor, though probably not the fan load itself. Look for "Snap Disc Thermostat Switch - Circuit On at 120°F and Off at 105°F" and you will get them. Flange mount you put so the base is on the radiator header tank for good temperature sensing. A good extra is to add a small lamp in the cockpit, to show they are on, possibly even using an existing bulb that is otherwise unused in the speedo, that can act for this.
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EPS flexible coupling in the top of the motor is faulty. There are some bushings there that are known to fail, so look up the Hyundai parts list for the EPS, and you will find them there, as a known issue, plus the top bushes also wear. Had exactly the same on a Kia, and they use the same EPS motor and drive, so the universal was not to blame, but you need to look a little further up the shaft to the EPS unit. You need to pull the steering wheel, strip the column to get to them, but otherwise not too difficult, and all you need to do is an EPS relearn afterwards (lock to lock to get it to figure things out) to finish the job.
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Yes had an industrial one. Used 44 gallons of tricholethane, and would clean things in seconds. We used it to clean PCB's, and that was a fine balancing act between stripping off flux residue, 2 seconds, and stripping off the conformal coating, ranged from 5 seconds to never, depending on the exact conformal coat used, of which there were 3. Leave a board in for 10 minutes and the resin bonding the actual fibreglass weave together left, which was useful for some boards, where we were robbing parts off them, and did not care for the actual board itself, though it did a number on component markings, so they were all labelled again afterwards to identify.. Hot solvent was also great to remove potting compound from the high voltage assemblies, it took around 1 minute cycle to soften the surface, and then you could pick out the soft resin without damage. When finished pot the assembly again to keep it from arcing over.
Friend would bring stuff over for cleaning, though I told him when to bring dirty things, like carburettors, valve assemblies and such, when it was getting time to replace the fluid due to it being too dirty. Then all those went through in an hour, and then dump the hot dirty fluid into a drum for disposal, and fill with clean new fluid. Carburettor, put in black with dirt, and it comes out looking like it just came out of the casting mould.
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Blaster is also very good at cleaning EGR tubes, as it simply has to have the suction attached at one end, probably using some duct tape, and then blast from the other side, so you do not waste the media, and get it Noisse and Shiny as Ray wants.
To blank off parts that do not need it best to use duck tape, and it will hold up well to the media, unlike painters tape. For the media valve simply get a large diameter water valve, exactly like the air line one, and put it a little further down, and use it to turn off the walnut flow. Large diameter valve, also called full bore, so that it does not clog, and probably best to use a ball type over any other as those at least do not clog up easily, while others like butterfly will, and the only one that will work with mud and muck is a pinch type, which closes off the hose by compressing it.
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US engines are typically much higher power output, so the oil is run harder. Note this is a 3.3 l engine, when the corresponding model in the EU area would be a 2.0l engine, in the same block. so the US engine has higher power output compared to the EU block ,and also has much more severe operating conditions, because of long distances traveled every day, and because of this and lots of short drives, because in the USA you drive to the local stores, while the rest of the world you either walk 3 minutes, or have a once a week shop habit. Remember in the USA you often have people commuting 4 hours a day, often in stop start traffic, as there is little to no public transit, and thus a vehicle has a cold start, then run foot flat for 2 hours, then from that to off and cool, down, and repeat. Much more aggressive drive style as well, almost binary in pedal position, either foot flat, or hard on the brake, because there is no defensive driving taught, or any sort of care for fuel economy, because USA fuel is cheap. Leads to fuel dilution, high engine loads, and also because of higher internal stress early failures
By me that same Sedona comes with a 2.0l 4 cylinder engine, as there are not many V6 and V8 engines, and also most vehicles have lower power ratings compared to the US model. Yes much lower power, but they then again also last a lot longer as well.
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That bushing looks like it was made from polyurethane. Cheap urethane will disintegrate with time alone. Had one that went, and, rather than replace it with the same junky urethane, I decided instead to make a new one out of some scrap rubber belting. 3 small strips, held together with 3 small nails used as rivets, and it was a "never bother with you again" fix.
Did later have to replace the motor, it decided to burn out, running around 6 hours a day, after another year of abuse. But I had a spare motor, only lightly used, from having to replace the previous pump because of that exact coupling failing. So put it in, same coupling half, with the same rubber coupler, and it ran till the machine was sold off. Coupler used to keep the pump from having axial thrust, because a vane pump has bugger all tolerance of end float, and will eat up an end of the rotor and the end plate. Less than a thou of clearance is the difference between work and does not grind into mush, and not pump at all, with the oil film providing the seal. Yes those pumps did not live a merry life.
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Military with drums of fuel always left around 30l at the bottom, because of the chance of water contamination. So those drums always came back to depot, where they got properly emptied, and then refilled. Friend was doing that run one week, and found out he could not fill the truck at the depot, refused as the bill was unpaid. So took down a drum with the crane, and emptied all that ullage from other drums till it was full, and lifted it back up till it was back in position, above the fuel cap. Then hose into it, and siphon onto the tar till it was running jet fuel, then filled the tank. Hose was the depot watering hose, not fuel rated. But that truck ran very well on the jet fuel, lots more power and pep, before you rowed the box at any incline, now it did not need any gear changes at all, and easily kept to the speed limit.
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I have set timing by ear, then checked later on with a timing light, and it was pretty close, so it never got adjusted, as it was close enough to correct, and within the timing error. New distributor, or rather new to me, because the original distributor got stolen in the street. Toyota engine, and that is a very expensive distributor, and was also only available as parts, and half out of stock. New was close to $400, used one, from a rolled vehicle, was only $25, and came complete with the plug leads, clamp, vacuum lines and the bolt.
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Or just contaminated gun, because the shop does not pay for 3 rinses in the gun before you change paint. Dump out the little bit of left over, wipe with a not solid yet rag, then a rinse with a tablespoon or two of solvent, then the next one goes in. Yes might be bubbles because the clearcoat ran out, but also probably old flakes of other paint that peeled off finally. Also a rant about body shops, modern paints can go on and be gloss straight off, why does every paint shop put it on to a matt finish, then buff the hell out of it. First time I ever used a spray gun with epoxy based paints I only had a slight matt finish on the first coat of primer, and the second coat was dull, because i used a fast thinner on it. Then the main coat i used a retarding thinner for all 2 coats, so that I would not have that. Yes did have a little bit of fisheye to fix, because I was learning just how bad silicone can contaminate, but that was doable with sanding down, and a redo a week later on after it had cured. Then we did a friend's car, where we got both coats done using only 1l of paint, and 2l of retard thinner, we just made it to the end before running completely out of paint. Had a few dust spots, but no booth either, just Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning, under cover as best as possible.
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Inner side of those pass through actually needs to be soldered, or you really need to have used ring terminals there, as that thin piece of garbage plate is actually the highest resistance of the entire setup. Those little bits of metal will rob you of around 10% of the power output, and will run really hot.
Power wise at least they used real copper cable, not the more common and cheap CCA wire. Easier for the power wires to get bootlace ferrules, but as you rarely do audio expensive for the tooling, unless you use it for battery terminal crimps as well, which also benefit from the same crimping. Alternative is some copper AC line, which you cut a small length to fit, and solder on using something with a little more power, like a propane or MAPP gas torch. Been doing that for a long time, that heavy cable sucks the heat away, especially if you use 0 gauge wire, like I did to make decent jumper cables. 5m of PTFE insulated cable per side means the majority of loss is the clamps on each side.
Alternative source for the sleeves is to buy inverter welder plugs, and use the thin copper sleeve they come with. Battery side would have replaced that connector with a new one, one that actually has copper in decent thickness, unlike the cheap one made with a thin copper alloy, that probably has 0.5V drop at full power across it.
Amplifier itself needs to have a proper mounting, not hidden under the seat and not allowed to cool by be buried under carpet, which will make it run really toasty. Mounting behind seat, with the correct hardware ( no drywall, proper rivnuts through the steel) to hold it both vertical and able to have airflow, and with the carpet under it cut away to provide metal to metal contact to get some of the heat out, and it will last a long time. Old one was cooked to death there under the seat and carpet.
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Best you can do with that is fill the oil, and start it, put a brick on the loud pedal, and leave it till it does a rod toss. Might get better range than a T72 does in Ukraine....
Valuable parts on it, that adjustable hand mangler, the mirrors still work, and the 4 doors are worth money, plus the rear panel glass, provided you strip the sticker, as spares. Sound system worth a whole $20, some install required, and then the rest can be placed on the scrap trailer, and you will get a few dollars as mixed scrap.
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My father ran a garage, and in the 1950's, it was accepted that a 3000 mile service interval was maximum, and a rebuild every 15000 miles an absolute need, as the old oils and engines would get severe sludge. He did love Galion equipment though, as an overhaul was very simple, the spare parts came in a single cardboard lined envelope, and were a big collection of various size copper seals, and a few neoprene gaskets, as the head used them for sealing, and they rarely failed. Pack of copper rings, and valve stem seals, and some valve grinding compound, oil, filters, and possibly braze up the exhaust manifold because of cracks, and see you again in 2 years, running 24/7 underground in a mine. They dewatered an old digging, that had been abandoned with low price of copper, and found an electric hauler that had been left down there in the 1930's. Pulled to the hoist and brought up, and washed down, then left in the sun to dry for a week. Battery pack taken to the battery shop, where they drained the old acid out, washed the cells, then filled them up and charged for a week slowly to reform, and that battery came back. Loco drained all fluids, washed out with petrol, and refilled, then repacked all bearings, put the pack in it, and sent it back down under. No electronic controls, just resistor speed controls, and DC traction motors that were fine in the high lime water.
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Same here in South Africa, though only Audi, VW and Seat used to have a few models sold here, though pretty much all the VW Golf models here have the plastic mouldings internally stamped with Seat, as they use the older EU models as basis for the locally made models, reusing the trim parts a lot. Common parts are very much a thing, though you often can save a lot buying from the VW spares department by using the VW part number instead of the Audi part number, despite being the same part, in the same bin, the end use vehicle determines the price. Or go to one of the many aftermarket places that can basically sell you the entire vehicle, less only the VIN plate.
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Walls pressure cleaner with industrial detergent, and then rinse, then you spray top with white, and bottom with the gray. Floor hit with the detergent as well, it will help a lot with dingy. Holes cover with a plate from outside, before you paint, and use rivets to hold the patch in place, then paint it inside to make it less noticed, though bondo over the dip helps as well. Roof try to get new tiles, the old faded ones absorb a lot of light, and while there get some insulation in as well, even 2in of extra batting helps with the heat a lot.
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