Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "DiagnoseDan" channel.

@Danidasanic ECU is detecting low pressure, so will not enable injectors, as the map disallows fuel flow when pressure is low, so as to allow the diesel high pressure pump to build up enough pressure in the rail. Once the pressure is above the minimum level it will enable the injectors again. Normally on a vehicle with a good pump and fuel system this will only take around one crank cycle to build up, but with the stuck injector bleeding off fuel it never got to that level. Another diagnostic test is to pull the dipstick and check the oil for that characteristic smell of diesel, with that amount of leak the oil will be very much past the full level as well, and much thinner than normal. Well at least most of the carbon deposits in the sump will now come out with the oil, as the diesel will have gotten them in suspension with all the cranking.
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More than likely will, as it is their failure to install the new turbo as the instructions say, as Dan says, they give the new lines with the kit for a reason. Not even any reason to not undo that bolt, you would have to remove the line anyway to get the old unit out.
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A lot of insurance companies now will tell, based on age of the vehicle (ie if it is in or out of warranty) to put the cheaper aftermarket parts in.
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Yes I had the same issue, just the fuse block burned out on 2 of the fuses, so I went for the cheaper alternative of 2 inline fuse holders and crimped them into place, then used a ring to provide power to them. As VW on this one integrates half the loom into the fuse holder, a lot cheaper than the buy a new one alternative.
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Also can occur if the owner put truck or agricultural diesel in, because that is high sulphur, and not great for the precision parts of the fuel system. Similar if you run illuminating paraffin or heating oil, or recycled cooking oil that has been sold as biodiesel.
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Probably the wire was nicked during manufacture, and then this part of the loom got to spend time under water, due to leaves blocking the drain, and thus get water in when the vehicle was parked, causing the corrosion to grow. Hopefully the loom there got a spray of water repelling fluid before the tape application, so as to keep any other insulation problems from causing further problems. Also probably tell the owner not to park under trees, or at least to clean the leaves out, but that likely fell on deaf ears.
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@TJAnttola Not really, used oil is eminently recyclable, and cheap, plus the filter as well. I never got oil past 10 000km, and that was on a stock low compression VW, because black oil is not the best lubricant, and DIY is very easy.
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Was not enough, as the engine still turned over. Too much and that starter would have stalled up, though that cylinder 2 will be low compression for a while till all the fuel dilution is washed out of the ring lands, and it will have slightly more wear on the bore from poor lubrication.
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Condenser looks like it is just old, fins rotted off from road salt and grime that eats the thin aluminium away.
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Guaranteed diagnosis cost is at least 100 times the price of that relay though. Other fault codes likely just from the failing relay going intermittent, and of course the transponder error is always going to show up randomly, key in a different orientation, ring obscuring it or such.
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Saw one today, same crank no start. But also water damage, so they are going to have to clean all modules, connectors and hope they get all the water out of them, otherwise the vehicle, like a few thousand, straight off the Toyota assembly line, are destined for the crusher from flood damage. They were flooded, in many cases to roof height, no way to fix other than replace entire electrical loom and ECU, and replace all fluids as well, along with complete interior.
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Going to guess the other 2 ground leads are for headlight that side and the side marker and indicator, so it is likely there is a headlight code as well.
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With the tone tracer it works best if you connect both leads to the loom, for that 2 wire sensor connect both green and blue. As it is a twisted pair the break is very easy to find, as the break will cause a very sharp drop in volume level of the tone. For others use the suspect wire and any other wire from the same sensor, as those will be next to each other in the loom. Single wire sensors connect the one lead to ground, as that will result in a better signal into the wire, making the break easier to find when you trace along the loom. Note that large looms you might find the signal nearly vanish when the wire is buried deep, you need to scan all the way around the loom to find the best signal closest to the wire. The probes were originally used for phone lines, but are useful with any large and complex wiring looms in industry as well.
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Carbon deposits are from both too long between oil changes, and from not allowing the turbo to spin down before shutting the engine off. Long oil change intervals allow the oil to form sludge, which, combined with the turbo spin down with no oil generating enough heat to degrade the oil, blowing the breakdown products into the piping. The return line is larger, so the restriction will be less noticed, but the supply pipe is small diameter to regulate the oil flow into the turbo, so it will clog first. Solution is to change the oil at the "harsh service" intervals, as noted in the owners manual, as the only way to get the oil to survive the regular service interval is to drive the vehicle like the "old granny driving for a Sunday country drive, and enjoying the view at minimum speed limit" all the time. If you are driving to enjoy the acceleration change oil more regularly, it is a lot cheaper than the 2 turbos.
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Probably related to either ground issues or to water in connectors.
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Windscreen cracked in the driver view not an automatic fail?
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My guess it was there from the assembly on a jig by the loom maker, where it was cut as the sharp ends of the sleeve were put on. Passed the initial testing, and worked on the line, and worked till the vehicle was driven in water, which leaked and was held in by the loom there, and then the wire, combined with the voltage on the sensor, caused it to slowly corrode away. Best trip for doing those kind of joins is to use adhesive lined heat shrink over the solder join, and shrink it down to bond the hot melt adhesive to the wire, making sure to lightly sand the insulation at the area to get clean fresh non damaged plastic insulation, making for the most waterproof join possible to the sleeve and insulation. Liquid electric tape is also good, cover with that, then 3M insulation tape over, tightly wrapped, then again liquid electrical tape over that. Works well on boats to keep stuff in good shape.
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