Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "I Do Cars"
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Thing is that there is an oil level sensor there at the bottom of the pan. Measures oil level before the starter is engaged to start it on the first cycle of starting, then displays on the display oil level. With stop start the sensor only operates during initial start, disabled if the start is too fast. However it does not work well in operating engine, due to the oil splashing and foaming, or if there is glitter in there, though it also has oil contamination sensing (check oil for conductivity, conductive oil either is water condensed there, or very carboned up oil) built in.
Likely is the owner ignored the oil level warnings, just got in and thrashed the cold engine, and also likely did not bother doing any servicing, leading to the oil being contaminated, and also being used up in blowby into the inlet. So drove it till the oil pressure warning came on, and the vehicle ECM refused to allow engine starting. Then turned off and saw the low oil warning, so dumped in a full 5 quarts of oil, which was still low, so added another 5 quarts of oil, as again no dipstick, but now oil level warning is off. Then proceeded to drive it, and as the knocking grew worse, figured that they are well under water with the likely cost of replacing the engine ( JLR not going to rebuild a engine doing the macarena at idle for sure), plus likely still owing around half the original purchase price, but now it is valued at scrap metal rate of 2c a kilo as mixed. So decided to instead slam on the anchors on the highway, and be given a love tap from the rear, in the hopes insurance will scrap the vehicle, settle the loan, and they come out owing nothing, and with still good credit score, or at least not any worse credit score. Hope they did not get that payout, and the driver that hit them was in possession of a dashcam, or that a witness got this on dashcam.
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Well, Bentley and Rolls Royce were the major manufacturer of aircraft engines till the turbine division was split off. Thus the engine designers in this era brought through the aircraft design philosophy, that fasteners should really stay fastened till service was due. Plus, as the price of the vehicle is rather high, the thought was that owners would be able to afford the service cost, even if half the cost in the service was labour hours. Rolls and Bentleywere not shy with pricing, but they also would make sure in those days that the stuff would not break, even if you abused it. Big engine, old technology, wet liners, that cursed hydraulic system (just wait to see the trans, it drives the rear brakes off the output shaft, so they come off when you stop) and the electrical system that could have "interesting" faults in it.
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When you are running stretch bolts you have them, and also the same for any fastener designated as use once as well. you are getting it out of the elastic region and slightly into plastic deformation, so that the tension in the bolt is higher than any force between the surfaces. Now to get that you need to start at a known tightness, and then stretch it so much, thus the degrees from a known torque that has them firm against the gasket. The second round is so that you allow the tension to be relieved, and then stretch it even further, getting closer to the yield point of the material, but leaving enough margin so that you do not have any failing in use. Use once so that you will not use deformed bolts, though you can measure them in most cases, and if they are less than a specified amount they have not stressed too far, though if there is a region that is waisted narrower than the standard diameter that bolt is close to failure, and needs to be replaced instead.
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Probably replaced engine because that piston wrist pin wear was causing knock, and the ECU, thinking this was detonation, due to the timing on that cylinder, had pulled power way back. Then the lowered fuel input meant the cylinder was running ultra lean, and this, combined with probably a small carbon particle that got stuck on the valve, caused it to wear, and then the ECU carried on running that cylinder ultra lean, leading to the valve seat eroding as the combusting fuel mix kept on bleeding by. You can see the run marks of the metal being eroded away. Engine replaced because ECU told of misfire on one cylinder, bad knocking and lack of power, along with very lumpy idle. Compression test said cylinder really bad on leak test, so scrap engine instead of stripping head, because the used engine is cheaper than a strip, repair and assemble labour wise. Pump likely removed because it was faulty on the junkyard engine, probably leaking water, so to cut cost they swapped with the old one.
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@I_Do_Cars I have the non USA 1.6 5 speed manual one. Nice car, just service is not buying GM parts, but Daewoo, because it is really a Daewoo with GM badges. But a nice car, now 12 years old, and with a nice clean engine as well. Some time soon I will have to replace the clutch, but that is readily available by ordering for a Daewoo Lacetti. Nice comfortable car, no speed demon, but loves the open road, and keeping around the speed limit is around the most economical fuel use point. Just needs regular oil changes to have a long life, and yes I had to replace cam belt recently, because of a bolt that went down and damaged the outside of the belt. No idea where that came from, must have been left when the engine was overhauled at 130 000km because the exhaust place tried to do an EGR and cat delete, and failed. I got that right after a little work, finding what they broke, and fooling the EGR valve into thinking it was passing exhaust gas.
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