Youtube hearted comments of SeanBZA (@SeanBZA).

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  2. Numitron backing is grey because RCA used what they had in spades, the sheet steel with aluminium coat that was used to make anodes and internal structures for thermionic tubes, and this was proven to survive the glass sealing and gettering operations. Thus they used the standard tools they had in the tube plant, the flat anode sheet, slightly formed to be a stiff backing, and punched out the holes needed to hold the filaments. Then used the technology they had to make glass beads with wire in them, and sealed those into the holes, making the filament supports, and then simply used a flat section of that steel wire that was bent over to hold a length of thoriated filament wire, also a common item in the tube shop. Length and diameter calculated for the brightness needed at the applied voltage, and then simply placed in location, the ends folded over, then spot welded together to trap the tungsten wire under slight tension. Then at the rear spot welds to a lead frame attached to a standard off the shelf 9 pin glass base, and you have the complete unit. Glass top attached, and then evacuated with the standard roughing pump, and as a bonus because of the low voltage, and no need to maintain an ultra low vacuum, the roughing pump and the heat sealing of the tube is all that is needed to operate, no need for a getter to be installed, and no need to flash it, just a RF heating during sealing to get a high vacuum, then seal. Incidentally there were small versions made, the same size as your common 7 segment LED displays, and they were very popular, as they ran off 5V, and interfaced with logic. They worked best using CD4049/50 CMOS level shifting buffers, as those would source or sink 50mA no problem. Using a buffer/inverter per lamp, and a BCD decoder or counter per digit allowed those displays to be bright, and as bonus you could also use the blanking input on the drivers to use PWM to dim them. Project to replace those displays with LED ones worked, just that it really did not drop display current use, it was still 5A of current at 5V, though it was good in that at least you had a display that now was available, using a tiny HP 7 segment red display. Do one conversion and you had 16 numitron displays to use to fix others, so we only converted 3 boards to the LED version. Biggest problem was the resistor value selected was too low, so the LED displays were running way too bright, so had to be dimmed. Rather than destroying the cordwood board made to fit them, I simply used 2 6A silicon diodes in the common line, to drop the voltage seen by the LED displays down from 5V to 3V8, which made them dim to exactly match the old displays. Those 2 diodes were hard to fit in the limited space left on the display board. Users liked the new crisp displays, the bright version got complaints that it was so bright it was unreadable at night with dark adapted sight, and it lit up the entire cockpit. Display dimming had to match the other display, and that board used unijunction transistors, and had a disconcerting habit of the power transistor unsoldering itself from the wire leads, it ran so hot. Base lead unsolders itself, transistor is still conducting, runs hotter and lamp blows. Select spare lamp and it also blows, unless enough time for transistor to cool below 200C junction temperature. Would have been nice to have had some of the more modern mosfets that can handle 50A, but not at the age of that design.
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  37. Pretty reliable, once you remember the correct operating condition for the contacts. They run best with 24V across them when open, and 20 to 100mA of current when closed, which helps by keeping the contacts free from oxide, as they wipe across each other, and this make good metal to metal contact. You get a totally different switch, with thick gold contact faces, for low level signals, such as those from the hundreds of thermocouples and platinum resistance thermometers that were used to measure temperature, and the hundreds of bridge type pressure transducers as well. Those AZ-5 switches look like they break before make, so while you operate there is a brief period where all contacts are open, so as to prevent shorts. Others will be make before break, where you do not want interruption, while say changing the range on a meter. The mirror galvanometrs are very interesting, with them not only showing up as readout, but also being a simple interface to the SKALA system to be able to input state information without needing complex extra converters, and also associated programming on them as well to set limits. Just built into the existing display, annd an easy way to show if nominal, or which way the deviation is. Likely there is a further phototransistor there that also acts to inform that the lamp has failed, and print it out for a repair operation. 28VDC lamps, run on 24VDC, probably with a series resistor as well, so as to drop voltage to around 22VDC, so leading to greatly increased lamp life. The type of lamp is classed as prefocussed beam, as the optical path is fixed in the lamp construction, so that in use no further focussing is needed during changing the lamp, as all of them are adjusted in the factory to have the filament in exactly the same orientation and plane, so you simply swap the failed lamp out, and close the panel up.
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  118. I remember one day walking in town, and seeing 2 boy racers at a light, next to a truck tractor, belonging to the railways. Nothing special about the truck, just the tractor, Mercedes Benz, with the then standard Atlantis Diesel engine and Eaton box. Boy racers were in the then new VW Golf GTI Mk1, and a new 330i BMW. They were revving engine, waiting for the green. On the green the truck driver floored it and left rubber, screaming that ADE engine up to 2200RPM red line, spinning all 8 rear tyres, and leaving the GTI and BMW in the dust. He was at the next light, and stopping, before they were even half way down the street. Both boy racers simply slunked around the corner, quietly and slowly, thrashed by what looked like any old truck. Yes they likely would have beaten the truck if the next light was 1km away, but at 300m they got eaten badly. Also Steve, in his Mk1 GTI, put money on a fighter pilot he could beat him in a quarter mile (500m) drag race. So one night while we were on night ops, they lined up, pilot on the runway, Steve on the taxi way next to it. On the flag off they both go, GTI easily being in front for the first 200m, jet on full afterburner and 20 tons mass, with extra fuel in 3 drop tanks, far behind. 300m and the jet is catching up fast, 400m and the jet passes the GTI, then flat taps at just under 200kph (Steve had a ticket or two showing he could get to there), with the jet putting a lot of forward stick to hold it onto the runway. 500m and the pilot pulled back hard, just left the undercarriage down for an extra minute while limiting speed, so as to allow it to cool down before selecting wheels up. Steve lost his money.
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  163. SAE tooling for that banjo bolt because they are still an imperial thread, and you will never be able to change that, as it is a 1/4 inch pipe fitting. Just remember your caliper bolts, brake fitting threads and all hydraulic fittings are a metric equivalent fitting, because the old stuff was changed to nearest size. 2.5 and 4mm hex keys, very common in industrial machinery, though I will tell you that, if they do get seized fast, the easiest way to get them out is to have a few of those ultra cheap 30 piece 1/4in hex driver sets, and look for the Torx bit that will just not fit in, and tap it into the damaged hex head, so you can turn it out. Will get it out, and if you do not have a replacement capscrew, you can put it back in again with it, and wriggle it with a pair of pliers to get the bit out, making it into a Torx head. Done that very often, because you might need that machine to run right there and then, and driving to get a new one, adding an extra hour of breakdown time, is often not an option. Make a note to keep that size as spare parts, for the next visit. I go through a lot of those size, M4 and M5, as they are a common thread, and you find often the stainless steel will gall fast to the aluminium parts if you do not use a thread sealer on them, especially if they get hot. I also have the thread repair kits for those sizes in various lengths, and the extractors for the broken screws, though you really burn through cobalt drill bits doing that, especially for the 8.8 high strength variant, and the left hand thread version drill bits are stupid expensive, even in plain HSS. Ridgid do make a really nice extractor set, but sadly the lifetime warranty does not apply by me, so I have had to buy some replacement sets along the way, because I always break the smaller sizes.
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