Youtube hearted comments of SeanBZA (@SeanBZA).
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Numitron backing is grey because RCA used what they had in spades, the sheet steel with aluminium coat that was used to make anodes and internal structures for thermionic tubes, and this was proven to survive the glass sealing and gettering operations. Thus they used the standard tools they had in the tube plant, the flat anode sheet, slightly formed to be a stiff backing, and punched out the holes needed to hold the filaments. Then used the technology they had to make glass beads with wire in them, and sealed those into the holes, making the filament supports, and then simply used a flat section of that steel wire that was bent over to hold a length of thoriated filament wire, also a common item in the tube shop. Length and diameter calculated for the brightness needed at the applied voltage, and then simply placed in location, the ends folded over, then spot welded together to trap the tungsten wire under slight tension. Then at the rear spot welds to a lead frame attached to a standard off the shelf 9 pin glass base, and you have the complete unit. Glass top attached, and then evacuated with the standard roughing pump, and as a bonus because of the low voltage, and no need to maintain an ultra low vacuum, the roughing pump and the heat sealing of the tube is all that is needed to operate, no need for a getter to be installed, and no need to flash it, just a RF heating during sealing to get a high vacuum, then seal.
Incidentally there were small versions made, the same size as your common 7 segment LED displays, and they were very popular, as they ran off 5V, and interfaced with logic. They worked best using CD4049/50 CMOS level shifting buffers, as those would source or sink 50mA no problem. Using a buffer/inverter per lamp, and a BCD decoder or counter per digit allowed those displays to be bright, and as bonus you could also use the blanking input on the drivers to use PWM to dim them.
Project to replace those displays with LED ones worked, just that it really did not drop display current use, it was still 5A of current at 5V, though it was good in that at least you had a display that now was available, using a tiny HP 7 segment red display. Do one conversion and you had 16 numitron displays to use to fix others, so we only converted 3 boards to the LED version. Biggest problem was the resistor value selected was too low, so the LED displays were running way too bright, so had to be dimmed. Rather than destroying the cordwood board made to fit them, I simply used 2 6A silicon diodes in the common line, to drop the voltage seen by the LED displays down from 5V to 3V8, which made them dim to exactly match the old displays. Those 2 diodes were hard to fit in the limited space left on the display board. Users liked the new crisp displays, the bright version got complaints that it was so bright it was unreadable at night with dark adapted sight, and it lit up the entire cockpit. Display dimming had to match the other display, and that board used unijunction transistors, and had a disconcerting habit of the power transistor unsoldering itself from the wire leads, it ran so hot. Base lead unsolders itself, transistor is still conducting, runs hotter and lamp blows. Select spare lamp and it also blows, unless enough time for transistor to cool below 200C junction temperature. Would have been nice to have had some of the more modern mosfets that can handle 50A, but not at the age of that design.
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Box is an electrical switch refurbishment kit, which while it is for the water distiller, those switches and parts would have been common throughout the U boat, so that kit would have been used all over, for switch and control maintenance, as the switches are a common ship part, and the ceramic parts used to contain the brass and silver contact blocks, and those do wear with use. That it was in the front was just that it was probably last used in the torpedo room as a tool kit, and then it stayed there, till it would be needed again for the water distillation plant, or there was more need for it at the front, or at least space to store it there, as often tools would be stored all round the ship, where you had a space free.
BBC later on amalgamated with the Swedish Asea group, and then became Asea Brown Boveri, and later on also dropped the names, becoming ABB group. I have used Brown Boveri relays, they are an incredibly popular item in German built equipment, all the way through to this century, as they are both very reliable, and also very robust, with a lot of the relays going well past the rated million cycle guarantee, and some probably went well past the hundred million cycle point before they physically wore out.
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Hope you put some oil on those felt pads, otherwise those bushes are going to be very dry, especially after being scrubbed in the ultrasonic like that. They need 5 drop or so of 10W 30 engine oil added to each pad, which will then soak into the oilite bush and lubricate for a long time.
Yes please get some crimp on ferrules, especially for cables like that, they will come loose otherwise. The common crimp on ones can also be soldered if you remove the red, blue or yellow sleeve, and then use some heatshrink tube after soldering, to make them both more robust and able to fit small places easier. Cheap eBay pack (throw the flimsy horrible crimp tool that comes with the kit away, all you need are the crimps, and some decent crimp pliers) and you will get at least 20 of the most common size hole lugs, in all 3 common cable sizes. Then you see which ones run low first, and buy packs of 100 of them.
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Very nice, was wondering why you did not make the shaft larger, then saw the clearance at the top. Would suggest as well getting a thrust race for the top, will make working with it better, or just turn a bronze washer to act as bearing, saving wear on the top of the machine. Like how the missing capscrew was replaced with the one removed for thread sample, when fitting that nice clamp. Suggestion would be to add in a small venturi in the feed line, so that you can have the option for air or coolant cooling, or by adjusting flow rates have coolant mist there, so that deep work with the tooling had the ability to remove chips fast so the finish is better. Just needs an air line and regulator, with non return valve in the air feed by the venturi, to allow this to run.
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The small taps are a "just how many of those per banana did you say I need?" moment. But they are great, the most common taps I have broken off in holes wereM6 and M8, so I have broken tap extractors in those sizes.
Only improvement would be to stamp CEE and the date on each one. The shorter length and the step makes it more rigid, the step keeps it on the tool post, and the lack of length does nothing for clamping force. Would say it does not need any angles relief on the sides either, button is wider, but the pocket does transfer load well. Plus now you have all the tools needed to make other more custom ones, probably you will have a job soon where these are too short, so need a really long one, which will need a deeper tool to stop chatter, and that would be easy to make now. Next will be a button insert boring bar, to hog out material in holes, basically this one on it's side.
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Belt squeal you can use belt dressing, but chalk works just as well. Tip for the VFD is to make a stand for it, because you will find a lot of other uses where you want a variable speed, so having a nice sturdy wheeled stand for it, to hold it at face height, with a lockable set o castors, a flat tray at the bottom, and a small er one half way up to hold parts, and a hook for an extension cord for power, plus a surface mount 3 phase outlet to plug the motor in.
If you want get your brother to take a 2 button pendant, put in a KM start stop assembly, with the VFD inputs for stop start, and a separate speed control pot, as the VFD will operate remotely easily. Short cable to attach, and you have all the options for a simple small remote control, and still have the display readable, or get a remote box and cable for that removeable pront panel, though that will mean putting the VFD in an enclosure, as the wiring is at mains potential on the display. Do not ask how I found that out......
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Linkage you are asking about is a universal joint. Cameras would have failed in high radiation mostly because the radiation damaged the semiconductors in the amplifiers for the vidicon tube, the actual tube itself would degrade slower, simply because of the larger mass of the photocathode meaning it would take much more to damage it. You would get ghost images from radiation off the video entering through the housing gap by the lens, but mostly for radiation all you would get was noise as the amplifier transistors got cooked.
Same for the digital logic making the video signal, where ironically a few generation older cameras, all tube based, would have survived for hundreds of hours more, till the radiation finally changed the values of the components enough. Those would have been seriously radioactive then, as you would had made a lot of highly radioactive isotopes of all the metal parts, and would have a lot of noise on the video from the radiation interfering with the actual electrode structures. But they would survive short term, a few days, looking into the most radioactive parts of the reactor, provided you kept them cool enough. But the failed cameras, once removed and cleaned externally, would decay back to background levels in a few months, as the isotopes created from the gamma radiation and neutron bombardment all have relatively short half lives.
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Pretty reliable, once you remember the correct operating condition for the contacts. They run best with 24V across them when open, and 20 to 100mA of current when closed, which helps by keeping the contacts free from oxide, as they wipe across each other, and this make good metal to metal contact. You get a totally different switch, with thick gold contact faces, for low level signals, such as those from the hundreds of thermocouples and platinum resistance thermometers that were used to measure temperature, and the hundreds of bridge type pressure transducers as well.
Those AZ-5 switches look like they break before make, so while you operate there is a brief period where all contacts are open, so as to prevent shorts. Others will be make before break, where you do not want interruption, while say changing the range on a meter.
The mirror galvanometrs are very interesting, with them not only showing up as readout, but also being a simple interface to the SKALA system to be able to input state information without needing complex extra converters, and also associated programming on them as well to set limits. Just built into the existing display, annd an easy way to show if nominal, or which way the deviation is. Likely there is a further phototransistor there that also acts to inform that the lamp has failed, and print it out for a repair operation. 28VDC lamps, run on 24VDC, probably with a series resistor as well, so as to drop voltage to around 22VDC, so leading to greatly increased lamp life.
The type of lamp is classed as prefocussed beam, as the optical path is fixed in the lamp construction, so that in use no further focussing is needed during changing the lamp, as all of them are adjusted in the factory to have the filament in exactly the same orientation and plane, so you simply swap the failed lamp out, and close the panel up.
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Friend landed up in hospital after that. Go visit him after the day, and he asked just one thing. Take the shop van he drove to hospital with, drive to the base, get the section keys out of the duty room, and go into the locker room, get his clothes, his car keys, with his room keys, and most importantly his cigarettes and wallet. Did that, left the work van at the gate inside, and drove his car back to him. Next day got off the bus at the gate, and drove the van back to the section for his boss.
2 weeks later discharged, after giving birth to a 5 pound baby. Doctor tried enema, soft food, safe laxatives till eventually RN grabbed him, told him to swallow this, and to never tell the doctor ever. Rough and tough laxative, normally given to horses to "get them moving", and an old home remedy. 3 hours later Atlas moved the world.....
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Any other manufacturer would have been using 1mm steel, and the tack welds would have been all the welding done, relying on paint to hold it together. But CEE puts the same mass of weld down as the metal, and double the thickness of metal.
Tip for the weld blanket is to grab some clothes pegs, or bulldog clips, to hold it to the extractor bottom. Will help keep the overspray down, and make it easier to clean up. Would also suggest putting an extension cord on the base with the extractor, to save looking for one each time. Long enough to reach the plug, and it will always be there.
Cutting saw if it is single phase motor time to change the capacitors, or the start contact is worn out. If 3 phase you have dropped a phase, either in the plug, or more likely in the switch.
Magpie swoop is most likely just asking for food, they know you now, and expect food, so are swooping hoping you would share......
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@lbochtler Yes the older type tubes had issues with slow response to bright light, as the phosphor got saturated. Backlighting, and then using a black level clamp to restore the video level back to black, removing the offset at the expense of dynamic range, did help a lot. Of course in TV studio use they simply blocked the iris way down, then put in a lot of light ( 10kW plus on a set was minimum, some went as high as 20kW for what was essentially a 2 desk wide area), so as to both have backlighting on the tube, and also limit peak white, so you could expand video level to a point below smearing, but still have a fast response with minimal smear.
Using for CCTV you had more problems, but there again auto iris was welcomed, or manual iris and accept muddy video.
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You can get a custom LCD made in China, which is a product that has dropped in price, though you might have to reverse engineer it, and order 100 of them, but you can always sell the other 95 to recover the cost, fixing other units that used the same display. But as it is likely a 4 digit common backplane display, and those are still common parts, should be easy to find a modern drop in, though you might have to do a little work to make the pin spacing closer, as the modern displays are considerably narrower, so the pins will all need a spacer.
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Totally 100% CCCP made, as the same parts, in different grades of quality, were made for the military, and thus the consumer and industrial equipment used the lower grade parts, and after they started doing commercial production they simply kept on making the same parts, using the same machinery. USSR tech was always on the trailing edge in a lot of respects, as they had to both make the machines first, and then were loath to upgrade them to make newer versions. Some parts were utter junk though, especially capacitors, where they routinely used parts designed in the 1930's, when much more modern parts existed, but because the machinery was still working they made the old ones, despite them being shorter lived, and also making poorer quality parts. Got some old Soviet era metal can capacitors that are identical to the 1940's versions, but made 50 years later, and they are as unreliable as the originals were, degrading even when not used. westerm made units updated over the years, to make them much more reliable, and in many cases closer tolerance and better performing at the same time, and also improved material made them much lighter and smaller.
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@CuttingEdgeEngineering Yes, never seen that use before. Have done the bronze plate though, to fix up bores that were somewhat less than good, to get them to the point the shafting that ran in them, or at least the new shoulder bolts I used, would be a tight fit. Holes wallowed out, and the original pins were under 5mm diameter at the wear points. No way to get spare parts, seeing as the manufacturer, still in business, no longer supports a machine they made in the 1970's, and have less than a clue, though the parts likely are still on some of the modern versions, seeing as they likely use a similar version of the linkage. But the braze and drill was both faster and cheaper, and the shoulder bolt was $3, off the shelf. Now to get some flexible pneumatic cylinder shaft couplers for it.
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When you opened the box, and I saw the thick plywood, proper box with metal corners, and then the heavy strap holding it, in addition to screws, that is a company that wants only the best product. Very good qality, and it should hold up well with the loading you place on it, and seems to have large holding faces all round to not have issues.
Probably just by cleaning and setting up your cross slide again, you have improved repeatability a bit as well, just from getting all the wear out, and fresh lubricant in the system as well.
Guess the rainy season in your area is around, seeing the background was all rain on a hot tin roof.
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Remember as default formatting a drive as ext2/3/4 (or ReiserFS, with the warning that there is no way to undelete on this file system) the owner of the newly formatted filesystem there is root, so you need to change ownership of the folder as root to be user 1000 (the default login user, normally you) before you can use it.
Formatting as FAT or NTFS does not do this, as these are non native Unix Linux file systems, they are mounted normally using FUSEFS, and many older distros could not read them, unless you added in a module to allow this, which was eventually included as part of the kernel by default. Also beware of compatability between different versions of EXT filesystem, older ones cannot read newer ones correctly, so you would need to use a compatible version, or format on the old system first, as the new one will read and write it correctly.
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Bolts are easy, plus the different lengths for steel versus alloy rims are hard to do in a stud form, either they stick out far, or are too short depending on the wheel type. Not much difference from each other, just that bolts at least have the wearing part easier to change, plus broken ones are, because the tension is now off them, are easy to remove, provided you have not left them on for ages to rust fast. Studs on the other hand are a PITA to change, especially when you have no clearance behind to remove them, and have to take a hub apart to do so. Smaller heads as well on them, so smaller diameter possible on the wheel boss, while still having enough strength and fatigue life to last.
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Mine I did use a waterproof additive in the grout, plus used it on the walls before tiling, and in the tile adhesive. Lip by the shower door, and sealed with silicone as well, plus the weep holes in the premade unit. Of course no problem with mould and peeling wallpaper, as the entire building is concrete and brick, plus the bathroom is tiled. The original tiles were a bear to get off, as they were put in properly, back bagwashed with cement slurry, and then laid into a freshly plastered wall, followed by the rest of the room being plastered to the same thickness.
In general you just use a jackhammer to chip away the old tile glaze all over, paint with 2 coats of bonding liquid then place the new tiles over the top, because the old tiles only come off with the plaster and a bit of the brick surface. Old buildings, old building codes, the newer ones you just use a scraper and peel them off, if they did not already fall off.
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I remember one day walking in town, and seeing 2 boy racers at a light, next to a truck tractor, belonging to the railways. Nothing special about the truck, just the tractor, Mercedes Benz, with the then standard Atlantis Diesel engine and Eaton box. Boy racers were in the then new VW Golf GTI Mk1, and a new 330i BMW. They were revving engine, waiting for the green. On the green the truck driver floored it and left rubber, screaming that ADE engine up to 2200RPM red line, spinning all 8 rear tyres, and leaving the GTI and BMW in the dust. He was at the next light, and stopping, before they were even half way down the street. Both boy racers simply slunked around the corner, quietly and slowly, thrashed by what looked like any old truck. Yes they likely would have beaten the truck if the next light was 1km away, but at 300m they got eaten badly.
Also Steve, in his Mk1 GTI, put money on a fighter pilot he could beat him in a quarter mile (500m) drag race. So one night while we were on night ops, they lined up, pilot on the runway, Steve on the taxi way next to it. On the flag off they both go, GTI easily being in front for the first 200m, jet on full afterburner and 20 tons mass, with extra fuel in 3 drop tanks, far behind. 300m and the jet is catching up fast, 400m and the jet passes the GTI, then flat taps at just under 200kph (Steve had a ticket or two showing he could get to there), with the jet putting a lot of forward stick to hold it onto the runway. 500m and the pilot pulled back hard, just left the undercarriage down for an extra minute while limiting speed, so as to allow it to cool down before selecting wheels up. Steve lost his money.
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Saw one today, same crank no start. But also water damage, so they are going to have to clean all modules, connectors and hope they get all the water out of them, otherwise the vehicle, like a few thousand, straight off the Toyota assembly line, are destined for the crusher from flood damage. They were flooded, in many cases to roof height, no way to fix other than replace entire electrical loom and ECU, and replace all fluids as well, along with complete interior.
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Easiest thing for the floor is to simply rent a buffer, and clean it using the rotary brush attachment, water and detergent in the mix tank, followed by a rinse, then simply use a commercial liquid polish to seal it, probably 3 coats applied with a flat mop. Will seal the concrete from spills and stains, and will at least keep the dust down, plus easy to patch as all you do is strip with polish stripper, wash, let dry and then apply another coat. Do every year as a maintenance task, and it will still allow you to have bare concrete look, but a little more resistant. Downside is if you want to do epoxy afterwards you will have to diamond grind off a millimetre more of the surface to get to bare substrate, so add an hour or two to the epoxy job.
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Carbon deposits are from both too long between oil changes, and from not allowing the turbo to spin down before shutting the engine off. Long oil change intervals allow the oil to form sludge, which, combined with the turbo spin down with no oil generating enough heat to degrade the oil, blowing the breakdown products into the piping. The return line is larger, so the restriction will be less noticed, but the supply pipe is small diameter to regulate the oil flow into the turbo, so it will clog first.
Solution is to change the oil at the "harsh service" intervals, as noted in the owners manual, as the only way to get the oil to survive the regular service interval is to drive the vehicle like the "old granny driving for a Sunday country drive, and enjoying the view at minimum speed limit" all the time. If you are driving to enjoy the acceleration change oil more regularly, it is a lot cheaper than the 2 turbos.
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That adaptor plate you made will probably be black anodised, and used as it is on the helicopter. 8 M5 bolts to hold the camera, not going to be a very heavy unit then, probably under 50kg. Yes those vibration mounts are nice, till they get a little old, when you start to find snapped wire rope ends in the mounting area, which start off as single, but rapidly grow to failure of whole wire rope rings. Not too expensive though to replace, except when you have to buy the exact same part, that MM Carr sells, but with the OEM aircraft manufacturer putting it in their box.
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My guess it was there from the assembly on a jig by the loom maker, where it was cut as the sharp ends of the sleeve were put on. Passed the initial testing, and worked on the line, and worked till the vehicle was driven in water, which leaked and was held in by the loom there, and then the wire, combined with the voltage on the sensor, caused it to slowly corrode away. Best trip for doing those kind of joins is to use adhesive lined heat shrink over the solder join, and shrink it down to bond the hot melt adhesive to the wire, making sure to lightly sand the insulation at the area to get clean fresh non damaged plastic insulation, making for the most waterproof join possible to the sleeve and insulation. Liquid electric tape is also good, cover with that, then 3M insulation tape over, tightly wrapped, then again liquid electrical tape over that. Works well on boats to keep stuff in good shape.
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SAE tooling for that banjo bolt because they are still an imperial thread, and you will never be able to change that, as it is a 1/4 inch pipe fitting. Just remember your caliper bolts, brake fitting threads and all hydraulic fittings are a metric equivalent fitting, because the old stuff was changed to nearest size.
2.5 and 4mm hex keys, very common in industrial machinery, though I will tell you that, if they do get seized fast, the easiest way to get them out is to have a few of those ultra cheap 30 piece 1/4in hex driver sets, and look for the Torx bit that will just not fit in, and tap it into the damaged hex head, so you can turn it out. Will get it out, and if you do not have a replacement capscrew, you can put it back in again with it, and wriggle it with a pair of pliers to get the bit out, making it into a Torx head.
Done that very often, because you might need that machine to run right there and then, and driving to get a new one, adding an extra hour of breakdown time, is often not an option. Make a note to keep that size as spare parts, for the next visit. I go through a lot of those size, M4 and M5, as they are a common thread, and you find often the stainless steel will gall fast to the aluminium parts if you do not use a thread sealer on them, especially if they get hot. I also have the thread repair kits for those sizes in various lengths, and the extractors for the broken screws, though you really burn through cobalt drill bits doing that, especially for the 8.8 high strength variant, and the left hand thread version drill bits are stupid expensive, even in plain HSS.
Ridgid do make a really nice extractor set, but sadly the lifetime warranty does not apply by me, so I have had to buy some replacement sets along the way, because I always break the smaller sizes.
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