Youtube comments of Jean Cassel (@michesbianan).
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Due to combination of experimentation with newer tech, tight deadlines, and the government ever pushing the bar for emission controls. Take for example the fuel injection, everything is well with Port injection, but then toyota dabbbled with direct injection, then we got carbon issues, and now we have the updated version with both Direct and Port injection in each cylinder.
As with most things, don't buy the first version of a new generation, most Toyotas run for 5-6 year cycle, if buying new, buy the second half of that generation years 4-6. Most of the issues are sorted out. Except for the case above LS 460, it's damned since it's birth.
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Watching this, after picking up today my 2011 Corolla with 2.0 engine (Asia) from the dealer, and I had all suspension parts replaced with OEM. Motor mounts (followed CCN's advice to just replace all 4), front struts + mounts, control arms + ball joints, rear shocks, stabilizer links and sway bar bushings. I wish I had done it sooner as I was starting to dread driving it on roads with not so good parts (daily route), but oh boy, the car is like new, feels like gliding over the roads now.
Came around 2 grand total, but every cent well spent. The car is virtually rust-free, engine is great (except for occassional VVTI rattle), transmission is great, 70k miles. New cars are too expensive these days, I reckon, I'm keeping this one until end of time.
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To start off, get yourself an OBD scanner and scan the car for issues. For average guys, a cheap $20 ODB scanner is all we ever need. When you are shown fault codes, reset them with the scanner. Drive the car for 5-10 minutes, then scan again, if there are fault codes, search google by typing on those codes so you have at least just a general idea where the error may be.
Then take note of those codes that appear after your drive to then bring them to Toyota or your trusted shop for final evaluation / repair.
Next you suspect something is off, you have that scanner to help you partly diagnose what is wrong. Don't be afraid it's very simlpe to use.
Do note, that some fault codes are not really worth the time and money for repair, things like you know the fault code does not affect drivability of your car, or safety of your car.
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If you're ok with either, take them both to your trusted mechanic, or a reputable one, and have them do the inspection as if you're going to have all the issues fixed. They will give you sort of a bill of health, you will decide from thereon. It's hard to judge cars based on mileage and year, because I myself drive a 13 year old car, but maintenance is always on sked, always genuine parts.
Also, try to consider that for older cars, parts can be hard to find. If this is going to be your additional car, it's fine, we need to fulfill our hearts as well. But if it's going to be your daily driver, it's not advisable because you might have no car for weeks while waiting for parts.
Nevertheless, Lexus IS cars are very nice, I will pick ES though.
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