Hearted Youtube comments on The Car Care Nut (@TheCarCareNut) channel.
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I worked at a nuclear power plant for 23 years. Our 2 standby emergency generator sets were 2 1000 hp Caterpillar V12's coupled tail to tail with generator between (yes, one ran backwards). Each engine had 2 turbos, one for each bank. In our training, we learned that turbo speed and power is a function of unburnt fuel, yes, the fuel is still burning in the exhaust turbine, and turbos run at 80,000 to 200,000 rpms under full load/ engine speed. Our exhaust piping was too long (back pressure) due to building design, and I have seen the cast iron housing literally glowing red hot due to that. It meant down rating the gen sets by several hundred kilowatts. We had to disassemble and inspect each turbo every 3 months, then they had to pass emergency startup testing weekly. These gen sets would go from shutdown to full rpm/ load within 4 seconds. Each engine had 2 air starters at 250 psi air pressure to achieve 4 second load pick time. One time an intercooler leaked cooling water into intake manifold, causing 8 of 12 cylinders to be hydrolocked. That engine did not turn 3 degrees when they did the weekly test. This incident caused full overhaul/inspection of each engine. It was astonishing when I pulled out the precombustion chambers/injectors and saw standing water in the piston tops!
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I am the owner of this truck. At time of repair it had 118k miles on it.
First of all, I'm incredibly grateful to have such a trustworthy and talented technician essentially in my backyard in AMD. He is 100% as friendly and knowledgeable over the phone and in person as he is in the videos. His pricing on the job was more than fair and being able to accommodate me and handle it while I was out of town made it even more budget and schedule friendly. Truck runs like a top and I feel very secure taking it to 250k and beyond.
I'm DIY maintenance guy to a certain point. Biggest jobs I've tackled on my own were a timing belt, water pump and motor mount on my wife's 2014 pilot and probably a rear differential replacement in the 2010 Tacoma I owned prior to buying this truck. Never in my wildest dreams would I try to attack this job in my garage.
Description of the issue:
A loud, intermittent rattle heard from the front driver's side of the engine near the top, which occurred on cold starts after the truck comes down out of a high idle. Typically this started at the 3 minute mark on the trip clock and went away around the 7 minute mark.
This timing chain tick first started around 50,000 miles (don't have exact). The truck was still under powertrain warranty. I took it to my closest dealer and gave them the exact description I've written above. Would you believe it? They called me back the day after I dropped it off and didn't hear anything. So off I go to the dealer to show them. Start the truck, wait the 3 minutes and there it is. I'm assuming they started it, didn't hear anything and called it good instead of waiting the 3 minutes as described. Back and forth with this dealership for a while with no answer. Eventually - 3rd drop off I think - they decide to get some regional tech out to look at it. Service manager follows up with me says they can't do anything about the issue because I have an aftermarket oil filter. Never actually told me what the problem was and how they came to the conclusion that the oil filter caused the issue.
Here's where I went wrong. Early on in owning the truck I read on a forum that it might be a good idea to swap the plastic oil filter housing for an aluminum one, which I did. This seems to be where Toyota had cause to deny any repairs under warranty. So consider yourselves advised, and I believe AMD has a great video on the subject.
The coolant leak was noticed about 6 months ago and the came towers were done proactively since he was already so deep in there.
Oil changes on this vehicle were done every 5000 miles +/- a few hundred. Initially I was using Mobil1 0w-20 and then moved to Rotella and for the last 30k Castrol Edge High Mileage with either a Toyota or Mobil1 filter. I'm pretty impressed with how clean the engine is inside.
I did try to solve this sticky tensioner issue with a Liqui-moly proline Engine Flush. It didn't change a thing.
$5200 is a lot of money, but it's way less than the ~$50,000 it would cost to trade it in for a new Tundra with it's own set of issues. Maybe not everyone's jam, but I'm taking pride in keeping this truck as long as I can.
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