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Aaron Britt
Rainman Ray's Repairs
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Comments by "Aaron Britt" (@aaronbritt2025) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.
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I've been telling Ray to get shielding gas for years. He doesn't care. Would rather do it the hard way for the REEEEEE.
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@Cheepchipsable get over yourself, internet white knight.
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As a former Nissan dealer tech, I can tell you that some dealer techs are morons.
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I remember Mercedes came out with a print ad claiming their SLK55 was the only car in it's class with a standard V8. Lexus made them print a retraction. The SC was a little too Grand Tour and not sporty enough. They basically built a car for 70 year old's going to the golf course. The SLK appealed to a wider audience.
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Just wanna say thanks... Now every time I hear a phone ring, I'm also doing a Swedish Chef impression.
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It may not be his primary skill, but learning something new is never bad. I love learning new skills. It makes me more employable.
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Altima 2.5 with a check engine light... Probably needs a transmission. I used to do 3 in a day. The oil leak is the o-ring at the top of the oil cooler. I've changed many hundreds of them. It's a TSB. It's a 4.9 quart engine. P0420 on a 2.5L Altima is usually a cracked weld on the cat. At Nissan, we replace the cat. At my shop, we usually re-weld it.
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Watching you pull the change out of the console reminded me of a customer I had that pulled the change out of his cupholder in front of me before I took his car. I told him, "Sir, I'm not losing my very well paying job over $3 worth of change. It's safe in your cupholder".
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I wanted a Regal T-Type or Monte SS back in high school. I'd still take one in mint condition. That's probably why the prices are going up on 80's and 90's cars. We Gen-Xer's are wanting to buy back our youth, much like how our parents drove up the prices on 60's muscle cars about 10 years ago.
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So, you also have a service writer who comes and asks, "how much longer" when you're only 1/2 of book time into a job?
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As a torque wrench troll, I only use a torque wrench on bolts that are compressing gaskets, or where I wanna make sure I've met the minimum torque requirements, like wheels and crank bolts.
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Those heat shield bolts ALWAYS break on 4-banger Altimas and Titans. I always drilled them out with a reverse drill bit.
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@8:30... Well, we know what happened. Fan stopped working, car overheated and someone replaced all the wrong parts chasing the overheat situation. Doesn't matter though because when it overheated, the driver kept driving until a head warped and blew a head gasket.
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As a former dealer tech, I can tell you that dealerships knock money off for any aftermarket work, even if it is done right. Reason being, what some people think is cool will turn off some buyers. The biggest offender is aftermarket exhausts.
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I think it's worth dropping a used engine in it. Replace the radiator and flush the evaporator core. Should run around $3k and the Jeep is worth about $8k, at least it is out here in the SW.
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@32:20... You're supposed to go over the water pump pulley last. That's why it has the rounded outer edge. To make it easier to slip the belt over it. It's also a larger diameter, which makes it easier.
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and the inners need an extension. I also have a "U" on the outer. Just makes like easier.
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Most techs are actually this honest. It's the dishonest few, glowing like a neon sign that make us look bad.
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I always make sure to tell the customer that the book called for much more time than what I charged them. Use the discount to earn that repeat business. This torque spec is why I spent the money on electronic torque wrenches. They can be set to measure angle and beep at 45 degrees.
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@markadams5429 In the first video, he said he got the handle.
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Back in the 90's, a guy I used to ride with got killed when a truck ran over an "alligator skin" (retread that came off a truck) and kicked it up right in front of him. It hit him in the chest and broke most of his ribs. He bled out internally before they could get him to the hospital.
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This.
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Keep in mind though... Not all advice is bad advice. I've been working on cars for 30 years and even I've learned a thing or two from Ray and some comments. Hope maybe Ray has learned some stuff from us as well.
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@v12alpine Supposed to kick on high immediately with a/c activation.
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@MonkeyJedi99 My company has enough equipment, we have our own mobile heavy equipment techs.
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Gonna be 115 in Vegas this week. We have an excessive heat warning from the Nation Weather Service all week. Using standard calipers, you're just measuring the lip at the edge of the rotor. I have calipers specifically for measuring rotors. A proper brake inspection doesn't require removal of the caliper. I have a measuring device that slides into the caliper to measure the pads. I can give the customer an actual measurement without removing the caliper.
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They should be, but insurance companies only pay for what MUST be replaced, not what SHOULD be replaced.
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That 0-8 oil is to meet EPA emission and fuel mileage. Don't use it. It's too thin to properly lubricate the engine. Use 0-20 or if you're some place super hot, like Vegas or Phoenix, use 5-30..
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As someone who's received many "sunburns" from welding... I concur. I used to get them on my chest/neck between my t-shirt collar and welding hood.
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My favorite way of connecting wires in automotive applications is the crimp butt connector with the solder pellet built in. I've found it to make a good electrical and physical connection.
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@peterperpetua2974 Same. I don't pull the intake when doing cooling module work on a PT. I just remove the grille and core support.
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@Wakeupandsniffthecoffee The HHR SS has a turbo 4. The SSR has a LS V8. Two completely different vehicles.
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I use Dawn dish liquid.
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@santatigerclaus This is why I always get the "lifetime warranty" rebuilds. O'Reilly actually pays some money for the labor too.
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The main thing that tells me it's not a leak is that it's intermittent. Intake leaks don't come and go, they're constant. Intermittent problems are almost always electronic. When you need to work on warm exhaust components, you can cool them off with a water bottle set to mist. It cools the components slow enough that you won't warp or crack anything. I set a blower pointing at the area and spray with water mist.
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Where's that? Cuba?
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This one was easy. Some cars require removing the front bumper cover and the headlight assembly.
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Because it's a Nissan VQ35 engine. You'll learn through your career that certain engines have quirks and certain vehicles have common problems. For example, when a customer calls my shop and says they have a Nissan Armada (Infiniti QX56) or Titan and the heater is blowing cold, I know it's probably the heater control valve under the hood because they fail all the time.
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It's odd that the new machines fill with the bottle right side up. My Robinair requires the canister be upside down. The hissing in the dash could be an evaporator leak. 1234yf high side psi should be around 250 at 90* F. 325 seems high. Either overcharged or expansion valve.
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@clbcl5 The things Ray is talking about are really about all corporations, just the publicly traded ones. Milton Friedman ruined publicly traded corporations in the 70's and 80's. His philosophies shifted focus from the customer to the shareholder. He said CEO's pay should be directly tied to the share value. This is why CEO's make short sighted decisions to boost short term gains at the cost of long term viability. I could go on for pages, but the TLDR version is that the problem is shareholders, not the actual business. The only way to fix it is to support small businesses and privately owned businesses and to move away from public ownership.
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I would have drilled a few small holes behind the low beam fan to allow a small amount of airflow without compromising the weather protection too much.
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Looking at this truck makes me think of something you should do for your customers that I do for all of mine... Polish the headlights. I do it for free for all of my customers. Takes me 5 minutes per light and my customers always love it when I point out that we did it. It's one of the little things that makes my customers keep coming back.
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As a former Nissan tech... It's sooooo much easier to recover the A/C while removing the fans, then remove the radiator and condenser as a unit. It actually takes less time than fiddling around with the lower tabs. You're also less likely to damage the radiator or condenser. Also, I keep a vacuum hose connector the same size as the trans lines and connect them together to prevent leakage. Why don't you use the vacuum filler? We saw you have one at the start of the video. Also, if you don't use it, remove the bleed screw on the heater hose. These VQ motors all have a bleed screw because the heater hose is higher than the radiator.
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You don't need to remove the rear cover if it's not leaking. There's a cut-out at the 1 o'clock position of the seal to make removal easy and if you buy a Delco seal, it should come with an installer.
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I stick the oil fill cap on the hood latch. Can't close the hood. In 30 years, it's saved me 3 times.
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Robert, Dorman makes a blend door repair kit for the F150 that drastically cuts down the cost. Takes the labor time down to about 1 to 2 hours. It does require cutting off a piece of the dash that's covered by the glove box, so you'll never see it. It also requires cutting a hole in the HVAC box that gets sealed up but duct tape (real duct tape, not the grey stuff you buy at the hardware store).
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@2:55... Heater circuit fault... I can't tell you how many times I've had a car in my shop with that code and it was just a fuse. So many people (even techs) don't realize the heater circuit has it's own fuse. Not saying that's the issue here, but it's the first thing I check. @15:30... You can get to the connector from underneath, just gotta wait for it to cool down so you can reach over the cat. @24:35... Yes, it is. That's the crankcase fresh air side. The PCV side pulls air OUT of the crankcase into the intake manifold. That creates a vacuum in the crankcase that is equalized by fresh air drawn IN from the clean air side of the intake. The problem is the PCV being stuck open, so even minimal vacuum in the intake is opening it. Should only open under high vacuum. @47:00.. Not only was he replacing the wrong bank, he also replaced the wrong sensor. That's Bank 2 SENSOR 2, not sensor 1. @54:50... I charge what the diagnosis should have taken. About 1.5 hours plus the part. I don't tack on the replacement time because replacement is part of the diag tree.
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Just a suggestion... In your video titles, you should include words that mention the parts your replacing and the model of car. This will make your videos more searchable and will probably get you more views and subscribers. Example, this video should be "Bad Idea! Will it survive? Chevy Cobalt 2.2 radiator". Now anyone looking for a "how to" on replacing their Cobalt radiator will find your video.
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World's easiest condenser replacement. With the compressor, start the bottom bolts so you know they're lined up, then do the top bolts. This takes the weight off the lower bolts. Then go back under and run in the lower bolts. Yes this means climbing out and going back under, but to me that's easier than trying to run the lower bolts in with all the weight on them. BTW, I hope you get that when I post a comment, I'm just one tech trying to share with another. I'm in know way suggesting you're doing anything "wrong". I learn stuff watching you and hope maybe I can return the favor by sharing some of what I know.
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Nearly ALL vehicles turn on the A/C compressor with defrost.
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