Comments by "Aaron Britt" (@aaronbritt2025) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.

  1. I can't work like that. I put everything away at the end of the day. Goes back to my dealership days where you had to put everything away and lock it up, or your stuff would grow legs.
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  2. The maintenance schedule on these new DI engines should include an engine de-carbon every 30k miles at a minimum. The valves no longer have gasoline washing them off.
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  3. When I have to deal with a full glove box or cubby, I get a small parts box and empty the property into the box. I leave the property in the box when I return the car to the customer. I then explain that I left the stuff in the box because I knew I wouldn't be able to put the stuff back how they had it.
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  4. You know what's fun? When you're trying to pull the heater hoses off and the cooling system is so corroded that the outlets snap off at the firewall and you then have to remove the entire dashboard to replace the heater core. Yep... Done it. I'd buy those pliers through your link if I didn't already have 'em.
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  5. I've found that on pretty much every modern car, removing the radiator, condenser and fan as a unit is usually the quickest way. I will say, this is the first time I've seen a trans cooler in the A/C condenser, rather than the radiator. Chrysler has been doing interesting things with A/C systems as of late. They also used the A/C system to cool the intake charge on the Demon.
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  6. I had a '98 B4000. I loved that thing. Sold it when it hit 200k miles. Didn't want to be the one holding the bag when it finally broke.
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  7.  @defaultname531  Because they don't want you messing with it. The fluid level being set correctly is extremely important in a CVT. They want you to take it to a shop or the dealer.
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  8.  @XStuntManiac  R134a is actually over 1400 and 1234yf is under 1. Not to bring politics in this, but I've heard many conservatives blame American democrats for this. 1234yf was actually developed to meet European standards, not the US's. Also, the only reason it's expensive is because two companies hold all of the patents, DuPont and Honeywell. Despite the fact that most of it is cheaply made in China (a small amount is made in Louisiana), they can charge whatever they want.
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  9. We call it a flame drill.
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  10. Those FJ's have an electric master cylinder. There's a bleed procedure you should follow. Not following it can damage the accumulator. You also need to let the master cylinder cool down for two minutes after every minute of use.
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  11. Not gonna fault you for replacing the radiator, but when those fittings leak, it's usually just the o-rings on the lines are bad.
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  12. This is why I don't wrench professionally any more. I only do it as a hobby, so I can take my time. When I was at the dealership, I flagged 2 hours for every hour I worked. I still did quality work, but occasionally overlooked small details that I wasn't being paid for. Now, I can be thorough, since the money I make isn't paying my bills.
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  13. All devices for cooling or heating are "heat exchangers". Radiators, condensers, heater cores, transmission coolers, intercoolers, oil coolers... All heat exchangers.
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  14. @30:43... The new one is black, not blue.
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  15. @3:40... These re-leak because after you seal these, you MUST let the RTV cure overnight before refilling. Most shops won't do that because they want the car off the lift to get the next paying customer in. This is why I always seal these at the end of the day, so they can sit overnight. When you fill these, oil pools there. That's why all that oil dumped out when you loosened the cover. If the RTV is wet, oil will push a path through as it sit there and the RTV soaks in oil. @19:10... Know what help with phalange fatigue AND saves money? caulking gun with the big tubes of RTV Grey.
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  16. BTW, you should separate out your rotors and flywheels. IDK about in FL, but here in Vegas, we get a lot more for them from the recyclers than I get for bulk metal.
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  17. My response to my service writers when they start bugging me is always, "you can finish it if you think I'm taking too long".
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  18. Best to add with an empty tank, so it mixes well. This stuff is basically an injector cleaner.
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  19.  @ahotdj07  I've seen him with safety squints in several vidjeos.
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  20. I use a blind hole puller, like you use for pilot bushings.
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  21. I got it down to 2 hours, but that was after about a dozen of them for practice. When you're at the dealer and only work on one brand, you get pretty quick. Plus, I personally own an '87 Hardbody with the VG30i that I've had since new. It's got 460k on the original, never been cracked open, engine.
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  22. I mentioned in another video, but be sure to check the rear upper and lower control arm bushings. Known issue and it causes a "death wobble". Coolant drain on this should be a phillips head plug in the bottom, center of the radiator. If you're draining the coolant, just pull the radiator. So much easier. P/S belt is super easy to remove from below. Raise the truck up. I've actually got this job down to about 2 hours.
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  23. Should have just replaced the line, unless that wasn't really the ONLY reason.
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  24. I would definitely ask the customer why they want those installed. It's likely someone told them they need them when they actually don't. I always try to save my customers money when I can. Especially since those look like cheap Amazon/eBay sensors. @24:50... Get BMR LCA's. Much better than OEM and not much more money. Just my opinion, as a 25 year F-Body enthusiast. @31:00... I start with a razor blade for the big stuff, then switch to a carbide (which I started using about 2 years ago when I first saw you use one).
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  25. I'm from New England, and now live in Vegas. I don't understand why any human would want to live in a place that cold.
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  26. @1:40... A limited slip isn't a locking diff. You know that. @6:43... Yes, green threadlock since these will never come back out unless you're rebuilding the diff again. @8:45... Using the top of your tool cart like a workbench is making me cringe. Maybe it's time to put some stuff away so your workbench is able to be used as a workbench. @10:30... It's easier to flip that over. Put the bearing on the bottom and push the differential into it. @12:00... Just drop the bottom beam of the press one spot. @26:12... It's just happy to see you. @40:45... You need a magnet. Either a pocket screwdriver with one on the end or one of those collapsible ones. @46:00... I think I would've installed a drain plug while the diff was apart. @48:00... Does that Eaton diff need a limited slip additive? Better read the instructions.
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  27.  @ssnerd583  Go away troll.
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  28. The needle went to the middle KOEO. The engine wasn't running. That's not fixed.
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  29. We all love our jobs, just some days the love is lessened.
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  30. I love that all you Youtube mechanics watch each other. Just goes to show, no matter how much you know, you can always learn something.
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  31. I used to sneak in an extra bolt to the pile of bolts when a new guy did his first engine tear down. It's fun watching them try to figure out where the leftover bolt was supposed to go.
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  32.  @justinhall5102  Corrosion adds resistance. Resistance is bad.
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  33. @1:55... Invest in a Hotsy heated pressure washer. Trust me, it's worth it. It blasts off oil and dirt so fast. @17:40... I slide a ratcheting wrench over the bolt, then run the tool onto the bolt. This lets me use the ratcheting wrench to drive the tool instead of an open end.
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  34. I was Nissan dealer tech and my service manager sent me to all of the classes except the last one I needed to officially be a "Master Tech". His stated reason was that we were too busy and he couldn't afford to lose me for a week. Real reason was that he didn't want to give me the $5/hr raise that came with the title. I quit.
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  35. @7:55... The capless cars always have a funnel designed to open the port. It's usually near the spare tire or jack tools. Use that funnel and you can funnel on those cars. No spilling.
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  36. It may seem crazy, but remembering where that stuff goes is pretty easy when you've been doing it for years.
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  37. A/C machines "burn off" some refrigerant when evac'ing the system. 0.2 Lbs. is an acceptable amount of burn off. If he ecav'ed 1.4 Lbs. it probably had a full charge.
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  38. I've found that brake clean can leave a residue. I keep alcohol rubbing pads in my tool box. After cleaning with brake clean, I use the alcohol pads to make sure there's no residue.
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  39. @22:50... You never heard from her? If it's been 3 years, you should have Wife Unit give her a call and see if she's ready to come back for another trans service. I keep track of my customers and check in with them about the time their next service is due. @28:45... The proper way to service this trans requires dropping the pan and replacing the canister filter, right above your hand. A spill and fill leaves about a quart in the pan because of it's shape and there are two magnets in the pan that need to be cleaned. Also, many techs mistakenly think the filter is in the pan. The thing in the pan is just a screen. The filter is in that canister housing. I use the scan tool to monitor the temp to set the fluid level. I believe the spec was about 150, but I'd have to check. Also, use the scan tool to reset the fluid counter. It tracks how old the fluid is. @30:48... I use Heli-coils to fix these due to the low torque. I got really fast at doing it because of the number of hack jobs I had to fix. Oh and get yourself a set of Lisle tap sockets. They're awesome.
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  40. Guessing the oil change place under filled it. This is why I tell people not to use those places. They hire kids with zero automotive knowledge, because of the low pay. Always go to a dealership or a full service shop for oil changes (or learn to do it yourself). Low oil could obviously cause the oil pressure code. It could also cause the cam position code. I'd test drive the car again after filling the oil and changing the PCV. It might have fixed everything.
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  41. @50:07... I preload the control arm before tightening the front bolt. This makes sure the bushing is in a neutral state when the car is put back on the ground. I learned this when I started building race cars. Just gotta be careful and make sure you're not lifting the car off the lift arm.
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  42. Do we not own a coolant system pressure tester? If it's not misfiring, it's probably the oil cooler and not a head gasket.
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  43. Watch the Torque Test Channel's review of torque sticks. Apparently they work great on air guns, but don't work well on electrics. I believe it's the faster speed of the electric gun that doesn't let the torque stick "rebound" which is what makes it effective.
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  44.  @youdontknowme2915  Physics is a hobby.
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  45.  @peted5217  Try $10k. I had a Verus Pro set up with it's own box, printer, 30" monitor. It listed for close to $14k, but got it for $8k off the demo truck.
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  46. There's actually a few of us out here. Just gotta look for us.
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  47. Ray, it's a good thing people are sending you brake clean. It's up to $4/can here in Vegas. Price has doubled in 2 years. Inflation is only 16% since then though. Hmmm... If that's a reman PCM, could be junk. I've seen a HUGE increase in junk reman parts since covid. Most of the reman factories are in Mexico. They must be having the same problem there where low paying labor jobs are only attracting people who can't get a job anywhere else. That being said, the PCM may not be faulty. The relay control in the PCM may be preventing the relay from closing for a reason. Is there a chip in the key?
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  48. Proper way to diagnose if your oil pressure sending unit is bad is to check the grille for a Chevy or GMC badge. If it has one and the gauge is at 80, it's the sending unit.
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  49. Yeah... I would've just pulled the doghouse from the start. Yes, it's a PITA, but it just makes everything so much easier.
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  50. CEL for a glowplug issue. We not addressing that? Also, there's a set screw on the bottom side of that knob. See... Sometimes my comments are useful. LOL.
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