Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs"
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Yes but the bearing is only a tiny bit cheaper than the whole assembly, and once you take into account the 15 minutes of time to press it out and the new one in, it is cheaper to replace the whole thing. Yes doing it yourself the labour cost is lower, but Ray has to make a profit on the job, and the 30 minutes to swap versus spending 30 minutes on another billable job, is making replace the whole thing look a lot cheaper. I have done a repack on noisy ones, but once noisy the bearings are already toasted, but more grease from new will help with longer life. Bearing packer that gets the extra bit past the seals works well, especially on ZZ bearings where that is just a dust seal, and not so well on RR ones, where you might pop the seal getting more in.
Have done gearbox bearings, where the new ones came in as RR, and I removed the inner seal, so the gearbox oil could lubricate the bearing as well, much better life over the original. Those with an outer seal both got removed, so the seal got lubrication.
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So, if you are in an area that is prone to flooding and storm damage, get out of there. If you are in an area with high elevation, and does not get storm surges and flooding, get yourself stocked up, put storm shutters on, and strap down things that will blow away, and help those who are going to get washed out. It would be good to keep water, spare fuel, a generator and fuel, and probably also a month's worth of dry food there, along with a few spare mattresses and bedding, plus some old clothing, because you are going to be a shining beacon of salvation to the area. Let the neighbours move cars to high ground, and lett them stay with you as well.
Above all don't be a Karen. Be kind, be polite, and keep a pack of candles handy, along with waterproof matches. Plus a few packs of tea candles, because that, plus a bit of stiff wire, can be used to heat a can of beans in emergency.
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@RainmanRaysRepairs LOL, better than a narrow minded "name the party" person. And yes very likely those corn dogs do suck, mostly because they are both mass made, and also probably have sat in a warmer for 2 days already. Should come visit by me, you can find out that fuel station convenience stores can actually have good food, because here the biggest differentiation for fuel stations is the store, due to fuel price, and full service, being regulated. Only thing they compete on is location and service. Best coffee I ever had, being made to the same standard, was at a fuel station, getting there for the first brew of the day, in clean cups, and a totally clean brew machine. They also do pretty good fast food as well.
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Yes, and as the vacuum cleaner is a bog standard Karcher unit the vacuum pump assembly is also a very cheap item, and easy to replace. Just a non standard bucket with the added mesh inside and the media removal port. But the rest looks like off the shelf, so the wheels, which are always the first thing to go on these, are a very cheap and easy fix. Pop off the broken one, and press on the new ones. Plus also get a spare filter, as that one will get dirty with carbon build up, and they are washable, but having a spare one around means no downtime while it sits in a bucket of engine degreaser overnight, and then is left to dry for a day.
Ray should get a set of them to keep, because, in a garage use, they wear fast. But buying another identical Karcher will also have as a bonus the tools it comes with, which includes the crevice tool, which is ideal to remove the media in the inlet, after a little work with a plastic welder to make it a little shorter and skinnier, and it plus right on the hose end. Plus also can be used to clean engines, and cars, unlike blowing air and sending stuff flying, it pulls it all into the bag.
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Bypass filter with only 2 lines, oil from pump, and oil return to block. Needs to have a third line to return the bypassed and filtered oil to the sump, because all that does is have 2 filters in parallel, so in reality you can put 2 of the finer filters in, and still get full flow, as the drop across them will be a lot lower due to the lower flow. Plus really needs as well a differential pressure switch or gauge, to light up and show you time to replace the filter, before you get low oil flow and pressure in the engine. Does need calibration, using a graph of flow across the filter versus blockage, or using minimum oil pressure at idle versus turn off pressure of the oil light, so that when drop gets within 5PSI of turning the oil light on you get a light to change filters.
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Still plenty of those running around by me, in various stages of body ventilation. All the way from being near showroom condition, to those held together with body putty, to those that are rust in close formation, but still the engine and drivetrain are going, even if the whine of the diff is loud enough to let you hear it coming a few blocks away, and the stop at the fuel pump is to fill up the oil, and check the fuel, because the gauge stopped working in 1999, and ever since then the standard has been to have a 5l oil in the cab, and another 5l with diesel or petrol for the tank.
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30 odd starts with no run will take any battery out to below start level, especially if the car has been sitting for a while, and the battery already was low from not running. Newish clean battery, though checking electrolyte level would also help, and topping up, but a nice equalising charge will work wonders on it. At least GM on my car did a lot of work on battery maintenance, it does a top up after starting, and then drops down to an equalising charge, and every few cycles does a desulphating charge, though I do have to watch electrolyte level and top up. Sealed for life battery just means it fails outside warranty, because the cells are all dry.
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Funny enough we call the one neighbour's car the Valdez as well, though that one is called the Laurel Valdez, as he generally fills it up with kerosene, not the diesel the manufacturer designed the vehicle for. Thus it leaks a little, oil, water, kerosene, and possibly brake fluid and transmission fluid as well, though hard to see against the big pool of oil and kerosene it deposits where it parks, leaving a visible pool on the floor. Laurel as that is a trade brand of one of the suppliers of illuminating kerosene, which is a little cheaper than diesel. Of course he has to let the car warm up, at a minimum of 15 minutes, and it apparently also has to idle when he washes it, to prevent the water getting into the engine.
Only good thing is it will probably never rust, though the alternator is having a hard life, swimming in fluids is not exactly good for it, as proved by it needing to be jump started recently, a few times, and a dragging starter as well, for the same reason.
As to doing it twice, that was me Monday, changing the timing belt on my car. Did it so well i did it twice, because after the first 20 minute struggle with the tensioner, no way to set it other than brute force, we were one tooth out, so, with the experience from the first time, it was done again, and this time the marks all aligned after the belt was on, and still so after 4 times around the combustion cycle to get the marks we put on the belt again to line up. Belt changed at only half of it's life, because a mystery screw, that must have been rattling up top for the last 30 000km, finally made it's way into the cambelt housing, and landed up carving a horrid notch in the belt when it landed up at the bottom. Plus replaced original serpentine belt and the very noisy idler it had on there, as they came off, so new was cheaper to put back on.
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