Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.

  1. There are tighter bends, not going to affect belt life at all much, it is time and contamination rather that flexing that kills them.
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  2.  @johnhpalmer6098  Yes, electric windows do help, just got to fix my one with the dicy switch. Plus the Kia where it also needs a new switch, but currently worldwide out of stock, so made a plan involving taking that unit apart a few times, and doing some soldering. Who uses rear windows anyway.
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  3. Gee, also have that same breaker bar with the exact same twist ze top off on it. So far the only parts of the drivetrain we have not had apart on the vehicle is the actual manual gearbox. But up to around a dozen and a half recoil inserts now, fixing previous damage to various aluminium parts.
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  4.  @stephensmith1118  Yes, but at least it is not one of the thousands of Ford trucks recalled because they catch fire, and the electrical system failing means you cannot unlock or open the doors as well, so you burn to death in it.
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  5.  @mattyb7736  Thin enough wire and it is a fuse anyway.....
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  6.  @pauldunn4426  100 feet, or it will land in the only patch of gravel for 3 miles.
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  7. That old oil looks like they put some snake oil additive in it in an attempt to stop it knocking. about the only thing that would work is if they replaced the oil with grease......
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  8. Flipped the like count from 999 to 1K, a first for me........
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  9. Bent frame bet there was a kerb involved.......
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  10. Fuse did it's job and kept the starter from catching fire, as the blow time for the fuse is normally longer than the starting time, so it does not heat up enough to melt. But if there is an issue, starter solenoid that sticks, ECU that was not programmed to time out starting correctly to avoid blowing the fuse, then it will disconnect the starter safely, so it is hot, but not on fire. Bet she kept on pressing the button, for around a minute, before the starter and fuse got hot enough.
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  11. Why bother, no lights on, and the engine will relearn within 5 drive cycles, and most modern radios are coded to the BCM and ECU via CAN these days, so do not need a code entered.
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  12. You know they got small Korean person who does those, fits no problem at all.
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  13. Digital ones work, just will not easily show up those with cracked internal plates, which need to be loaded for 5 seconds before they will drop voltage down. Still room for the old cooking toaster ones, but the digital one is faster and gives hard figures, while the old one needs skill to use and interpret the readings.
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  14. More like just was in rain and such, and the top of the switch is not sealed well enough, so the pool that is in the top is pulled in when the trans cools down, and then it sits and makes the green crusties in there. Probably is a TSB where you add in a plastic washer cap on top, to sort of solve that.
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  15. But keeping them clean does help a lot. Not time to do my one again, it has been a year, will do it with the oil and filter change. Was at a shop and found a few oil filters that are the correct Z156, bought the entire stock, because they had been on the shelf for 15 years, older than my vehicle, and were still at the price from 15 years before. Got 2 left of the 3.
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  16.  @Bryan-Hensley  Yes I know it is the voltage drop from the current, but you want more copper in there to reduce that voltage drop. That 10AWG is rated by NEMA for 30A for 300ft is because they consider 10% voltage drop within limits, at that distance and current, in a residential 115VAC situation, subject to typical loading and diversity factor. Would not recommend it for a heavy sewage pump running at continuous operation, at that length and current though, pump will have a short merry life.
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  17.  @johnwarr7552  A street paver would work there with how bad some of those castings were......
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  18. If you have ever seen an aircraft in for a major overhaul you would be suprised as well. When you see a bay with a tail number on the board, and the only thing in there is a few racks with parts on it, and in the middle is a wiring loom, laid out on hangers on the floor. That it all will be back together in 2 months is amazing.
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  19. Not filters but those smoke and mirror magnets sold to improve fuel economy.
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  20. That is a common switch to fail, and it looks like it fits quite a few models as well.
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  21.  @DasYorgo4000  Yes but the 40 year old venerable VW Golf engine in original form, with the cast water pump, has as only failure the bearings rusting out because the seal leaks. But the non OEM part is cheap, though I have had them last under a week. So changed it twice in a month, and took the old one, after removing the evidence of gasket maker from it, for a refund the next working day. was still dripping coolant from the weep hole.....
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  22. Had the same with an Opel Corsa. Ignition switch and the lock cylinder were very cheap, plus very easy to install after watching a video or three. Just had the hardest part being the removal of the security module, and to swap the chip to the new key. Now to code in a spare module, so the second key can work, and also get a new remote module programmed in so there is now a spare key, and to also delete all other remotes for safety.
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  23. Yes had an industrial one. Used 44 gallons of tricholethane, and would clean things in seconds. We used it to clean PCB's, and that was a fine balancing act between stripping off flux residue, 2 seconds, and stripping off the conformal coating, ranged from 5 seconds to never, depending on the exact conformal coat used, of which there were 3. Leave a board in for 10 minutes and the resin bonding the actual fibreglass weave together left, which was useful for some boards, where we were robbing parts off them, and did not care for the actual board itself, though it did a number on component markings, so they were all labelled again afterwards to identify.. Hot solvent was also great to remove potting compound from the high voltage assemblies, it took around 1 minute cycle to soften the surface, and then you could pick out the soft resin without damage. When finished pot the assembly again to keep it from arcing over. Friend would bring stuff over for cleaning, though I told him when to bring dirty things, like carburettors, valve assemblies and such, when it was getting time to replace the fluid due to it being too dirty. Then all those went through in an hour, and then dump the hot dirty fluid into a drum for disposal, and fill with clean new fluid. Carburettor, put in black with dirt, and it comes out looking like it just came out of the casting mould.
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  24. Blaster is also very good at cleaning EGR tubes, as it simply has to have the suction attached at one end, probably using some duct tape, and then blast from the other side, so you do not waste the media, and get it Noisse and Shiny as Ray wants. To blank off parts that do not need it best to use duck tape, and it will hold up well to the media, unlike painters tape. For the media valve simply get a large diameter water valve, exactly like the air line one, and put it a little further down, and use it to turn off the walnut flow. Large diameter valve, also called full bore, so that it does not clog, and probably best to use a ball type over any other as those at least do not clog up easily, while others like butterfly will, and the only one that will work with mud and muck is a pinch type, which closes off the hose by compressing it.
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  25. Only for the US market, where even the US muscle cars only come in auto these days.
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  26. US engines are typically much higher power output, so the oil is run harder. Note this is a 3.3 l engine, when the corresponding model in the EU area would be a 2.0l engine, in the same block. so the US engine has higher power output compared to the EU block ,and also has much more severe operating conditions, because of long distances traveled every day, and because of this and lots of short drives, because in the USA you drive to the local stores, while the rest of the world you either walk 3 minutes, or have a once a week shop habit. Remember in the USA you often have people commuting 4 hours a day, often in stop start traffic, as there is little to no public transit, and thus a vehicle has a cold start, then run foot flat for 2 hours, then from that to off and cool, down, and repeat. Much more aggressive drive style as well, almost binary in pedal position, either foot flat, or hard on the brake, because there is no defensive driving taught, or any sort of care for fuel economy, because USA fuel is cheap. Leads to fuel dilution, high engine loads, and also because of higher internal stress early failures By me that same Sedona comes with a 2.0l 4 cylinder engine, as there are not many V6 and V8 engines, and also most vehicles have lower power ratings compared to the US model. Yes much lower power, but they then again also last a lot longer as well.
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  27. Probably only a 12 month warranty, and even if it was sitting in a shop it would only be 6 months old before selling at most. Batteries at retailers they really want to make sure stock rotates, because the OEM only covers the 12 months from production, the retailer covers the 12 months from sale, so they always want fresh stock.
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  28. PT a big box in the rear with all the parts in it. Then your worktop is clear, and it is fine if it stays or goes, all parts with it either for the new engine or the compactor.
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  29. The odd values are because resistance measuring sends a small constant current through, and measures the voltage drop. Power being on means the amplifier itself is providing a voltage, much more capable than the current source in the meter, and what you measure is the voltage there, averaged by the meter internally to make a stable reading, as it otherwise will vary slightly as the probes contact varies.
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  30. Getting to winter by me, dropped below 18C last night.......
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  31. You can see the last battery change on passenger side they lost a bolt.......
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  32. Ford put it inside to save 5 seconds in the assembly line, one less plug to put it, by integrating it all into the single transmission control plug.
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  33. Drive it south of the border, and it will live another decade as a work truck, as is.
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  34. Probably waiting on a few parts, but Ray has said his videos do not come out in sequence, but more when finished the job, and edits finished. That is why he said you might see Troy there, even though he has gone to better pastures.
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  35. Boxer engine, made very popular by the millions of original VW beetles that were made over the decades, in assorted variants, all with the same style of flat 4 engine. Yes they all leak at some point or the other.
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  36. I regard those leads as a service part, buy them with the plugs, and change every 30 000 km.
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  37. That bushing looks like it was made from polyurethane. Cheap urethane will disintegrate with time alone. Had one that went, and, rather than replace it with the same junky urethane, I decided instead to make a new one out of some scrap rubber belting. 3 small strips, held together with 3 small nails used as rivets, and it was a "never bother with you again" fix. Did later have to replace the motor, it decided to burn out, running around 6 hours a day, after another year of abuse. But I had a spare motor, only lightly used, from having to replace the previous pump because of that exact coupling failing. So put it in, same coupling half, with the same rubber coupler, and it ran till the machine was sold off. Coupler used to keep the pump from having axial thrust, because a vane pump has bugger all tolerance of end float, and will eat up an end of the rotor and the end plate. Less than a thou of clearance is the difference between work and does not grind into mush, and not pump at all, with the oil film providing the seal. Yes those pumps did not live a merry life.
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  38. Military with drums of fuel always left around 30l at the bottom, because of the chance of water contamination. So those drums always came back to depot, where they got properly emptied, and then refilled. Friend was doing that run one week, and found out he could not fill the truck at the depot, refused as the bill was unpaid. So took down a drum with the crane, and emptied all that ullage from other drums till it was full, and lifted it back up till it was back in position, above the fuel cap. Then hose into it, and siphon onto the tar till it was running jet fuel, then filled the tank. Hose was the depot watering hose, not fuel rated. But that truck ran very well on the jet fuel, lots more power and pep, before you rowed the box at any incline, now it did not need any gear changes at all, and easily kept to the speed limit.
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  39. I have set timing by ear, then checked later on with a timing light, and it was pretty close, so it never got adjusted, as it was close enough to correct, and within the timing error. New distributor, or rather new to me, because the original distributor got stolen in the street. Toyota engine, and that is a very expensive distributor, and was also only available as parts, and half out of stock. New was close to $400, used one, from a rolled vehicle, was only $25, and came complete with the plug leads, clamp, vacuum lines and the bolt.
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  40. Literally the same vehicle, just different badges on them for different markets, and of course a different side for the driver. That one could have been built in Australia for export, or was built in Korea by GM/Daewoo. Depends on the VIN as to where it was built.
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  41. Or just contaminated gun, because the shop does not pay for 3 rinses in the gun before you change paint. Dump out the little bit of left over, wipe with a not solid yet rag, then a rinse with a tablespoon or two of solvent, then the next one goes in. Yes might be bubbles because the clearcoat ran out, but also probably old flakes of other paint that peeled off finally. Also a rant about body shops, modern paints can go on and be gloss straight off, why does every paint shop put it on to a matt finish, then buff the hell out of it. First time I ever used a spray gun with epoxy based paints I only had a slight matt finish on the first coat of primer, and the second coat was dull, because i used a fast thinner on it. Then the main coat i used a retarding thinner for all 2 coats, so that I would not have that. Yes did have a little bit of fisheye to fix, because I was learning just how bad silicone can contaminate, but that was doable with sanding down, and a redo a week later on after it had cured. Then we did a friend's car, where we got both coats done using only 1l of paint, and 2l of retard thinner, we just made it to the end before running completely out of paint. Had a few dust spots, but no booth either, just Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning, under cover as best as possible.
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  42. He did.
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  43. Still got a timing light, and actually used it recently, to check that a coil pack was weak and misfiring, by comparing the 2 halves output of the coil pack.
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  44. Yes, faster charge to restore battery when idling and at low RPM, and the ECM will taper off charge faster as well. At anything over 4000RPM the ECM will in any case not command high power, as the alternator then is running in a overspeed, and inductance in the windings severely limits output power, and increases losses in the cores due to eddy currents.
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  45. Dealer is claiming to only use "genuine ATOYOT parts", but likely is going to use generic parts, and bulk oil, but charge for them with a 100% mark up from the manufacturer recommended service price for over the counter sales.
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  46. Firestone tyres........ must want to go rollong.....
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  47. Decent gauge on the inside of the vehicle also helps, because you know no shop gauge set is ever going to be accurate after a couple of hundred drops onto the concrete. Calibrated gauge and stem is in the door, just for that use, and it has been very useful to prove that more than half of the gauges at the garages are at best only mildly wrong. Worst one actually inflated to close to 5 bar, when the rating called for 1.8 all round. Felt it when leaving, stopped at the next one down the road to check, and rectify. We were wondering why the space saver spare was not getting to the required 6 bar pressure.....
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  48. box of assorted grease fittings is cheap, gives you a selection of threads, diameters and also ones with an angle to allow greasing. cheap, and well worth buying as the box is about the cost of 10 fittings, and if one is popular you just buy a pack of 50 of them.
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  49. Well, once BMW bought LR they did finally make a LR that did not leak fluids while in warranty, something JLR could never do.
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  50.  @paulferreira8342  Yes, but those BMW designed 3.0l engines were a lot better than the old V8 engines that were there, and did not lead oil, plus had much better fuel economy. No drive on a beach in low, and get a warning about "fill up fuel, range below 80km" with a full tank.
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