Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Wrenching With Kenny"
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Toyota can accept a lot of error in alignment and still drive fine. Likely they, from the damage, sideswiped a Jersey barrier, damage is consistent with clubbing the base of one, pushing front suspension back, and the rest is from the side of the concrete. Yes a thing that should have been disclosed, though the painter who worked it did a poor job, orange peel all over, fisheyes and clearcoated the dust, plus failing to fix the edge damage on A pillar. But matched the colour well, that charcoal colour is actually a really hard paint to match properly, too bad it was applied poorly. Rushed, poor prep of surfaces, and dust in the area.
Yes if the price reflects the fact it was damaged, you take it to an actual alignment place (definitely not toe and go) and get that subframe correct, it should give no issues at all, though your range control will absolutely need recaibration, as the aftermarket bumper covers are different to OEM, which get matched at the factory before they get on the line, and this is then programmed into the ECU as it finishes the line.
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Yes still remember using those kits, and even rebuilding master cylinders, as those also had kits. There were a few engineering companies that also did sleeves, making the bore standard size again, and stainless steel, so it would not need oversize kits. They are common in vingage and veteran vehicle repair, as often you cannot get the original part any more, so either resleeve the cylinders and get seals, or you have to modify (a sin in the classic car show market) to use a compatible modern unit. Even did rebuild a few Morris Minor indicator stalks, rewinding the coils that had burnt out, using modern enamelled wire which had a much higher temperature rating over the old varnished wire, so the new winding would not fail again. Getting those old rivets out was a pain, especially if you needed to get the rusted ones out intact.
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Fails when hot, my perennial Ford issue, so much so that in the vehicle there was always a distributor module, tested for a few days, a 7mm spanner, and the thermal transfer compound, all wrapped up in a cloth. Those were all aftermarket, simply because Ford/Mazda did not supply them any more, and even the OEM one was notorious for failing. But a 5 minute job to swap it out, and use the cloth to clean your hands, then go buy a new one to put in place of the spare. At the time they were under $10 each.
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Thinknig that the pump could have been killed off by bad fuel, which sent the marginal pump out to pasture. With what came out the filter you probably had a nasty sludge build up that made the pump work hard, and finally die. high pressure at inlet, yet the engine side with barely anything, filter was clogged badly, and then this let the pump work to build up too high a pressure, which eventually caused it to fail, either shedding bits of the impeller, or by the high current draw against the high head, eventually heating up the rotor to make one of the segments go open circuit, not helped by the low flow making it boil the fuel in there as well, which then leads to cavitation, and the hard starting till it cools.
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Labour cost, and not many places around any more that will recondition an engine and block. Cheaper to drop the engine out and bolt in another than strip the head off, send out to be skimmed, do the valves, clean off the block ,check block is still straight, get head back, and install again with new gasket on it. Especially US rates, though take it across the southern border, and the price to do that is halved, due to the lower cost of labour.
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For those saying grinding off the side weakens it it might be true, but a wheel stud is one of the more over engineered parts of a vehicle. That 5 stud pattern is designed so that even 2 adjacent studs being in will still allow the vehicle to safely drive, and not fail for a good time, and thus with all 5 in they run at a very low stress anyway. More likely to snap off from being put on by Bubba, and his 12 foot long cheater bar, shearing off the threads at the end of the nut, than from pulling the stud through the hole when the lip shears off. Or simply having the threads strip off of a well worn stud because there is only a half thread engagement to the thread on the nut.
By me it is so common to see a 3.5 ton Quantum minibus taxi, loaded with 25 plus people, driving at high speed, when you look at the taxi at the rank, and see it has 10 lug nuts shared among the 4 wheels to hold them on, and one will have all 5 still there. Yes common to have the wheels come off them (have been the recipient of that twice), but generally that is because the bearings have long gone out as metal powder, and you get a wheel, brake drum and backing plate, plus half shaft, come off as a unit. Same for buses, though there is is 30 out of 40 nuts, with the broken ones still there in the hub.
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No alignment tool a broom stick works well, or that punch, and a roll of masking tape in an even layer, to build it up. Another tip is, if you are going into the clutch housing for any reason, like a main seal, or gearbox input shaft, is to replace that throw out bearing, unless it is brand new. Any wear on it cheaper to toss it and put a new one, as you already have done the labour.
Should also have taken flywheel off and replaced rear main seal on that engine, they are known to leak as they age, and that one looks like it has never been off from the factory.
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