Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Wrenching With Kenny"
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Yes people go for the manufacturer interval, which is designed to get the engine out of warranty before something fails, and thus you either buy a new engine, overhaul it, put in a used one, or trade in the scrap for a new one. All 4 result in profit for the manufacturer, and the long oil change intervals also are profitable, because you go to the dealership, and they can sell you new pads and rotors, because the long interval means you were through the pad and damaged the rotors, or the suspension is shot and needs bushes. But the manufacturer only has to pay for 6 oil changes in warranty as part of a plan, but gets to upsell 6 times, and no 7, with the big sticker shock, is not covered, and you have to fix it, as you still owe money on the loan, and it needs to run for another 2 years before you have paid it off. So loan more money from the dealer, now you are there for another 3 years as customer.
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Alfa had that, though they also did a bigger difference and had inboard calipers, so that a vehicle with standard 15in rims off the factory could have 19in disk rotors, and thus much better stopping power. Handbrake worked the same front pads as well, so the handbrake mechanism provided a lot of holding force, if adjusted properly. the big rotors really helped in driving sporty, you could scrub off speed faster than you could put it on, and those massive rotors did not fade much at all, unless you really were abusing them.
Unfortunately they could not make an automatic adjuster there, so you would need the 2 special Alfa tools to adjust the handbrake to work, or you would find that it barely held after a while. My father did not want to pay for those tools, so instead got some steel rod, and an old 10mm socket, and a 5mm hex bit, and spent a few minutes with a gas torch brazing the hex bit on the one rod, and the socket outside to the other one. That then allowed him to spend 5 minutes a week, when checking the fluids and general condition, to undo the lock nut, and wind up the slack in the cables for the hand brake, to keep it consistent. He wanted it to grip by 3, and fully on at 5. Leave for a month and you might be almost vertical and still have the car able to roll. He really loved that car, despite it seeming being built entirely from compressed rust.
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Yes common faults there. Oil cooler you can do without removing that manifold, but easier if it is off, but doable, and there is an entire kit to do it which is cheap. Likely will need a new valve cover gasket as well, use the blue one there, it will last longer. 2013 at least it is not the later generation known for cracking pistons. Not a bad car, yes it is a Daewoo Matiz, rebranded as Chevy Spark. Quite reliable vehicles in general, you just have to maintain them properly. Will bet when you pull the coil pack (pre 2012 had a coil pack outside there, and 4 wires, so the coils do not run as hot) the plugs will be swimming in oil, and the old valve cover gasket will be as hard as rock.
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Will say that any driveability issues, you get the vehicle with a cup of fuel in the tank, but a fuel pump almost always will show up with a near full tank, so you have to drain it out somehow. Yes that fuel rail was bad, and your fix was a great job.
A tip if you need to bend that hose, but have no mandrel spring that will fit inside, is to simply take lots of copper wire, and feed it into the pipe, to past the bend area, and heat it up with the hot air, then use a tube bender to quickly make the bend. Leave to cool, and pull the copper wires out one by one, till they are loose. The wires keep the pipe from kinking, and then it will hold the shape. Otherwise do like the AC manufacturers do, and wind a steel wire tightly around the outside, making a wire diameter gap between turns, and use that to keep the pipe from kinking. Again remove when shaped and cool.
Another cause for crank no start, but will start eventually, can be the fuel pump relay, very common to have it go faulty and intermittent, as it has both power and a keep alive signal fed to it from the ECU on older vehicles.
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@WrenchingWithKenny Yes exactly the same, finding power on return wire in a single phase system means either high resistance joint, or a broken wire. But in the USA with split phase high power circuits will have 2 hot wires, because to run high power loads you need 220VAC power to supply the needed energy, and not 110VAC, though many of these appliances, like driers, need the common as well because they have 110VAC controls as well as the 220VAC active elements. So a 4 wire cable with hot, hot, neutral/common and a protective ground wire. 3 phase power is not common in the USA residential side, but there again you get some really odd configurations, because the suppliers have to give the 110VAC supply as well, and want to use the same transformer to give it.
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Brake use depends heavily on drive style. Drive like you have a carton of eggs balancing on a small pole and not falling over they last forever. But drive in traffic hard, and the wear is going to be severe. Heavy front of the vehicle and it will wear anyway.
Did mine this last weekend, of course it is "as per sample", so go get the less common rotor diameter, and matching pads, and then take old off, clean caliper, support, hub and backing plate, and apply a thin film of rubber grease on the touch parts, and the hub and bolts, so that they have a little film to keep the rust from making them one. Pads I got are Ferodo, so guaranteed to last 100 000km, though the rotor will be destroyed by the time they wear out. Did put the little screw back in place, but only hand tight on the torx driver, not even a socket handle on it, as it will not fall out with the wheel in place.
Reason for replacing was I felt a slight shudder when slowing down from high speed, and then looked, and saw that, while there is half the pad still left, the rotors have worn a nice set of ridges, and thus the shudder. So off to the spares place, and get what they have, not ATE, which I wanted for pads and rotors, but off brand rotors and Ferodo pads, so I know that in 50 000km I will replace the rotors and the pads again, with the pads again showing no real wear. Old pads were OEM from GM/Isuzu, no idea which local supplier they use, but likely the OEM, looking at the construction, was Ferodo, as they, Girlock and ATE have the local market OEM part supply pretty much sewn up. Filters I use GUD or Fram, as they now are the same company, and I never had issues with the filters from them, but the others I have had issues with leaking and such.
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