Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Wrenching With Kenny"
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I had 3 cans of spray paint as standard in working on helicopters. First one was water displacement fluid, used on every part. Second was contact cleaner, used on connections. Third was matt black, used, with a piece of paper as mask, to touch up instrument panels. For corrosion control we used Tectyl, but the cans were not easy to get, but the 205l drums were all over, and if it would fit in the drum it would get dipped, then hung up over a galvanised steel pan, next to the drum, to drip dry. Larger in the pan and use a brush to cover it. I put entire instrument panels in that drum, then wiped them down to a clean surface, so that every pore was filled with anti corrosion compound, then would wire it up, put the gauges in, and put it back in service. Would not corrode then.
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Funny about that just today play in a wheel. Looked at it, and was told new bearings recently. So easiest thing, undo the CV nut, pretty tight, then loosen it off, and knock CV loose. the tighten nut again, using long breaker bar ( but no pipe) and standing on it. Got near another turn on it, those bearings must not have seated fully initially. Put back and away it goes. Needs a list of other things, like sway arm bushes, shocks, saddles, valve cover gasket and a camshaft sensor. Those can all be done soon now, now it is running properly, and not a danger. Really needs new brakes, but they are still usable, and owner is going to go back to smaller rims, cheaper to replace the tyres when they wear.
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Blowing gas, so even a new thermostat will not fix the problem, gas in the coolant, and no antifreeze, means it is blowing it out fast, which is a blown head. About the only thing you can do is a can of stop leak, and see if it slows down, but that engine needs a new head gasket on it, and possibly a skim, though it can have cracked already and need either a new head, or stitching together. VW was famous for making a 5 part head if you overheated, cracking between each cylinder.
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My one battery charger was made by GE around 1950, but still is working, after a few repairs and updates to put charge control in it, to not cook batteries. 3A average charge current. Also go another smaller GE with 1A charge rate, that is fine to keep a battery charged all the time. Modified a welder to make a DC fast charge, up to 50A for 30s, which is enough to bring a battery up to something useful.
Issue with the alternator is that the regulator is the wrong type, you have a few different ones that are used, from a plain dumb one that simply acts like an old 1980's alternator, to the more modern ones where the ECU is the thing that provides charge regulation, and varies a PWM signal to control voltage from the alternator, and battery charge. Yes been bitten by this as well, solution was to go to the dealership, and order the exactly right alternator, based on VIN of the vehicle, direct from Korea via the agents. They will give the right part, and i would say your daughter has a failed brush pack on the alternator, worn away. New brushes $1 by me, though for the one I needed a different brush, so bought the cheapest VAG clone, and ripped the brushes out of that.
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You will come across some 2 wire sensors that are polarity sensitive, notably some sensors that use active electronics inside the sensor, so best to make sure you always follow the wiring diagram for pin number to wire colour, just in case you run into one of those rare sensors. I have seen this in industrial sensors, where you get a lot of 2 wire sensors that are very much polarity sensitive, despite being 2 wire, and those are making their way into automotive as well, as they solve a lot of problems in cable routing, as the small signals are conditioned right in the sensor, making it possible to use a much cheaper wire in the loom, instead of a shielded one, saving time in the loom assembly and cost to make.
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Another tip is to small the oil, you can tell if it has stop leak and seal fix in it, and if they added stop smoke, just from the smell, and the sticky feel when you separate 2 fingers that are in the oil. Those mask bad seals and worn rings for a short time, till you change the oil, or they stop working, hiding the problem. Also do the sale for the ATF or gearbox oil, you can smell burnt ATF, or see the distinct smell of burnt gear oil, and the additives added to make noise go away for a while. See that look at another vehicle, or offer lower price, because you will either be rebuilding an engine, or replacing it with a new one, along with transmission, in short order. Price will have to reflect that cost.
Also check brake fluid, and inside the reservoir, clean fluid, in a dirty sludgy stained bottle, says it was just changed recently, and probably just the fluid in the bottle, the dirt is still in the lines and cylinders. in the underside check look for rusted out brake and fuel lines as well, along with other rust damage, and any suspicious freshly coated areas, as that often is a case of paper and filler over rust, and hiding the rust damage without repairing it properly. Seen way too many with cardboard rubberised to the pan to cover the holes.
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My father, amongst his other things, was also an automotive engineer, and he swore blue streaks at automotive engineers for designs they did in the 1980's, with parts absolutely designed to fail. most of his automotive design was with heavy mining equipment, where a design point was to make things as easy to service and as robust as possible, because somebody will be doing this service a half mile underground, in a rock strewn section of tunnel. He did spend the last 30 years of his career though as civil engineer, designing and installing infrastructure to both mines and towns, like conveyors, factories and water and sewage treatment plants, then went into transport logistics for a large brewery, as that required a lot less travel, and paid better. Still needed that automotive engineer, as this included as well procurement and design of fleets, from the trucks and trailers, to the actual buildings they used. I still see trailers he designed in the 1980's, still in use, and still going strong, despite being designed to be at least 5 tons lighter than the competition ones, but with the same load capacity.
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You learn, eventually. Possibly to drive slower, put the snow tyres on, and to add a load of weight to the rear to help with traction. Incidentally that type of reinforced sign is now no longer legal, after a few incidents of them not breaking away, and people being killed by the sign pole penetrating the vehicle. So now they get protected by moving them further back, making them overhead, and putting barrier rails to slow down vehicles who hit that spot.
Did not help with the one I saw, where the idiot driver was speeding, hit the plastic barriers, smashed 100m of them, and then proceeded to punch the steel barrier rail right through the vehicle, including the driver. He had come past us about 15 minutes before, basically low flying, and decided to overtake the line of cars in a construction zone, where it was reduced to a single lane.
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I remember one day walking in town, and seeing 2 boy racers at a light, next to a truck tractor, belonging to the railways. Nothing special about the truck, just the tractor, Mercedes Benz, with the then standard Atlantis Diesel engine and Eaton box. Boy racers were in the then new VW Golf GTI Mk1, and a new 330i BMW. They were revving engine, waiting for the green. On the green the truck driver floored it and left rubber, screaming that ADE engine up to 2200RPM red line, spinning all 8 rear tyres, and leaving the GTI and BMW in the dust. He was at the next light, and stopping, before they were even half way down the street. Both boy racers simply slunked around the corner, quietly and slowly, thrashed by what looked like any old truck. Yes they likely would have beaten the truck if the next light was 1km away, but at 300m they got eaten badly.
Also Steve, in his Mk1 GTI, put money on a fighter pilot he could beat him in a quarter mile (500m) drag race. So one night while we were on night ops, they lined up, pilot on the runway, Steve on the taxi way next to it. On the flag off they both go, GTI easily being in front for the first 200m, jet on full afterburner and 20 tons mass, with extra fuel in 3 drop tanks, far behind. 300m and the jet is catching up fast, 400m and the jet passes the GTI, then flat taps at just under 200kph (Steve had a ticket or two showing he could get to there), with the jet putting a lot of forward stick to hold it onto the runway. 500m and the pilot pulled back hard, just left the undercarriage down for an extra minute while limiting speed, so as to allow it to cool down before selecting wheels up. Steve lost his money.
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Tip for the garage dig a small trench around the outside, about a spade deep, and a spade wide. Then order for yourself 5 20kg/50lb bags of borax, which is very cheap. Then pour into the trench, a nice even layer about fingertip deep, and close it up. Will keep any of them from moving in, and also kill kill any ants as well. Same for the house. Also works to kill fleas and roaches. Will, after doing it, have you finding them all over for a few days, kicking on their backs. Cheap, relatively non toxic, though not pet safe, but works well.
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Those fuses are stamped out of a sheet, and the metal used is aluminium, which has a low melting point, or a tin zinc alloy with a similar low melting point. Then they get inserted in the plastic housing. The melted metal is from oxide forming between the legs of the fuse and the edge of the brass contact in the housing. The cure is to remove all the fuses, and then clean down there with a thin needle file, to make a new clean surface, followed by a thin coat of dielectric grease to keep it from tarnish, then the same on the fuse blades as well. Needle file set, and the single sided flat file, one wipe down per side, and then a thin coat of the grease on a piece of thin card cut to fit, and same on the fuse. Then put in, and check the contacts are what is gripping, and not the plastic, and retension the contacts as needed to get a good grip on the fuse blade.
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Thermal camera on wheel rotor you first need to hit it with a quick spray of paint, no real issue as to colour, as the shiny metal reflects back the temerature of the environment, not the metal temperature.
Biggest use is to run through the fuse box, with all loads on, like lights, AC, fan on high, hazards on, brakes on, defroster on. That then will show up all the hot fuses, and if any have poor contact they will be a lot hotter, so simply remove them, clean the legs with 320 grit water paper, and check the socket, and put back, and it will run cooler again.
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@WrenchingWithKenny By me I see vehicles all the time with bald tyres, and other obvious defects. Not even only old cars, plenty of newish luxury models where the driver only puts fuel in, because they have learnt that from running out a few times. They do not even know what fuel to use, because the garages are all, by legislation, full service. You can bet as well that that vehicle very likely is still running on the original factory oil as well, and they will run it till either the lease is up, or it breaks down on them. Then tow and complain about how unreliable the vehicle is. When you see a soccer mom, drinking her famous Seattle iced frappe with one hand, other on the phone doing her social media, with sparks coming from the 4 bald tyres, and her doing all this at 100plus in a residential area, with 3 children in the car, none wearing seat belts , or even in child seats, you know to stay out of the way, and hope you are not involved in her accident, which will invariable not be her fault, even if she drove into a brick wall.
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I put one in a good number of years ago, because otherwise your car will be stolen. Now it went into a repair shop after it got into an accident, and my friend, who's car it was, forgot to tell them about how to disarm this. After 2 weeks he collected, and found they had been pushing the vehicle up a 2 flight ramp every day, because they had called an automotive electrician out, and he could not figure out the immobiliser. He got in, and started it, and they could not figure out how, because we had discarded the reed switch commonly used, as thieves simply went around with a strong magnet off a broken speaker to try to find them, and instead had a hard to press switch hidden under the carpet in the tunnel. Immobilier itself I used the full 2m of loom it came with, and matched the original tape used on the loom, and cut and pliced, soldered connections all round, into the main loom near fuse box, and simply taped this extra wire into the loom with matching black tape, all the way to the passenger side kick panel, where the control box vanished into a hole in the frame, and was held up there with some foam wrap, and looked like a factory installed loom and module. By me you cannot insure a car unless it comes with a security system, unlike the USA, and even a 1980 Toyota Corolla had to have a minimum spec system. You do not have the easy to steal Hyundai and Kia issue at all, simply because the insurance companies will not finance such a vehicle, so all come with a decent immobiliser.
Though if it is over a certain price, or is one of the top 10 all time stolen ones, which includes the Toyota pick up, all variants, any 1 ton pick up, all larger Toyota sedans, and the biggest seller, VW, you are required to put in at least one tracking device, and often you will get companies putting in at least 3 of them.
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Durham, had any vehicles in that have met the can opener bridge? Or just you doing a drive through of the bridge itself.
Yes the bottom spring is there to keep the element pressed up to the base, but in the middle is the bypass valve, and up top the rubber is the non return valve on the inlet. Using a different filter than the original is fine, provided it is the correct seal diameter and correct thread. You also do not want to downgrade, so longer or fatter is usable, and if you do not have a spec for valves having them is better for cold starts after overnight, where the filter without will drain back down, and thus oil pressure takes a few turns longer of the engine to build up. There are a lot of filters that are otherwise identical in all respects, just the difference being if they have inlet and outlet valves, and there are cross reference charts saying the lowest version is obsolete, and the others that are a fit and suitable replacement.
On my VW I used different filters than OE, as the OE does not come with anything other than the bypass, so I used ones that fit, but have both inlet and outlet valves. Z88, the most common filter by me, to Z147 or Z157, both fitting, just one fatter and shorter than the other, but same area of filter material in them. Older cars you find filters are obsolete, but the modern spin on filter that replaces it is worlds better performance wise, or is supplied by the dealership as a replacement, improving filter ability, or improving cold start performance.
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True on the F150, but the worst is the bog standard vehicle, but has the aftermarket knobbly all terrain wheels on it, with the tyres that make that noise. Yet the most off road they do is onto the pavement to park in a shopping mall, right by the door, because they do not want to walk from the parking.
Yes that fuel line is single use only, because the install makes it conform, and there is not enough wall thickness to allow it to be reused. It likely will soon enough be made with proper fittings and a flexible hose by the aftermarket, to use the correct hydraulic fittings that are meant to be reused, instead of the use once style, but the use once one for Kia is a lot cheaper to assemble, low cost steel seamless tube rated for the pressure, and then cold formed to make the flare ends. Can also probably find an alternative that has the flare ends crimped on the pipe, giving a thick wall flare, that is reusable, but those also cost more to make as opposed to reusing the brake line flaring tool, which will still seal under lower pressure, but not at the 2000PSI the GDI engine has to operate at.
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