Hearted Youtube comments on KYLES CABIN (@KYLESCABIN) channel.
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Great job guys! Not meaning to be critical in the least but more observations and tips.
For exterior wall corners, rather than using 3 studs nailed together you can use 2 studs fastened together in an L configuration which will save lumber and much more. This will provide a surface for fastening the intersecting walls together, this will provide a surface to attach the interior finish to (backing), this will make running wires around the corner much, much easier and this will provide a cavity to better insulate the corner. Partition wall ties (where an interior partition wall intersects with an exterior wall) can built ahead of time using 3 studs in a U configuration - just remember to insulate the exterior of the U before sheathing. Partition wall ties create a fastening surface for the intersecting walls to be tied together and provides backing for fastening the interior finish to.
House wrap provides more than water protection. As a semi-permeable membrane house wrap allows moist air inside the wall cavity to escape but prevents drafts and moisture from outside to penetrate inside. I'd use it ever time, worth the effort and expense, it's like buying insurance.
Whenever possible, I will frame a wall (or wall section as the case may be), flat on the floor (building the bearing walls first of course - and remember, roof bearing walls ALWAYS go over the beams), and I will attach the housewrap (and any door/ window waterproofing methods/kits),and exterior sheathing/ chalet siding sheathing while the wall is flat on the floor. This saves a lot of time and perhaps more importantly this ensures that when you stand the wall up it is perfectly square and stable, only requiring bracing the wall plumb from outside to inside, no temporary lateral bracing required.
I prefer to fasten the king studs to the headers (lintels) separately and then move them into position in the wall and fasten the king studs to the top and bottom wall plates. Fastening the king studs to the headers in place often can be very awkward and difficult due to close proximity to a neighbouring stud. Another way around this is to fasten all king studs and headers in place before placing and fastening any studs in the wall.
When building walls make sure all of the crowns of the lumber are facing the same direction - any studs with excessive crown can be "fixed" with a sawcut, some pressure and a nail. Walls that will have lower cabinets and counter top should have the stud crowns facing the inside of the building - this way you won't get any big gaps between the countertop and the wall.
Protip: Pay attention to sheathing products manufacturer spacing requirements printed on each sheet. OSB in particular needs to be spaced a certain amount to prevent future swelling and buckling.
Protip 2: Walls can be built in sections as need be. For example, if a wall will be too heavy for the crew to lift in place when built (and no cranes handy),build the wall in sections. The main thing to remember is to offset the top plate splice from the bottom plate splice.
When standing walls. Nail "kickers", scrap pieces of lumber to the outside of the rim joists about every 8' or at least on each end of the wall that will be stood up. Keep in mind the thickness of the wall exterior sheathing that extends down on to the rim joist - you will have to fir the kickers out an amount equal to the thickness of your wall sheathing, scraps of wall sheathing behind the kickers will accomplish this. This will prevent the wall from sliding off the floor when lifting the wall and setting it in place. An ounce of prevention.
Protip 3: A foam gasket under the bottom plate of exterior walls can help prevent drafts from any small voids and is required by code in some areas.
Protip 4: A router with a panel bit makes quick and accurate work of cutting window and door openings in the sheathing (always move the router clockwise), this can also be done while the wall is flat on the floor.
Protip 5: For chalet siding as used on this project, use 2" oval headed galvanized nails. The oval head countersinks the nail slightly and the galvanized coating prevents the nails from rusting and from streaks from appearing on the siding later.
I'm sure that you are planning to do this, but make sure to plumb and brace all the walls about every 8' on the inside before starting the rafters. Running a string line at the top of the outside of the wall and using this as a guide can help ensure that you have a perfectly straight top plate on top of which the roof will go on.
Be careful with heating up cans of canned food over heat, some cans have a toxic very thin layer (veneer) of plastic on the inside that can be transferred to the food when heated. You can "cook off" a can, wash it and use that as a cooking tool. Better safe than sorry!
Good luck and have fun!
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