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  9. Really nice informative video. A couple of additional comments from a former battery management system engineer, to the real nerds out there: First, charging to 100% affects more than just range estimation. It also effects accuracy of cell-to-cell balancing, and hence actual range! Small leakage currents in some cells inevitably cause charge differences to accrue between different parts of the battery over long periods. The circuitry needs to correct these imbalances by "bleeding" charge off of the higher charged cells or cell groups. It can only do this if it knows which cells are more charged! If the cells aren't properly balanced one cell/group will hit 0% before the others, leaving energy on the table, and as a consequence the vehicle will estimate (and deliver) lower total range. Even NMC chemistry balances better when fully charged occasionally. Although more steep than LFP, the NMC charge/voltage graph's slope just isn't steep enough for <1% accurate balancing in the middle portion. You'll get up to a couple more percent range from NMC if it can reach 100% every so often and re-estimate charge there, and re-balance more accurately. Second, it's important to understand that all battery management systems use "coulomb counting" (monitoring discharge current) almost exclusively to estimate range, at least when driving. This is not just for LFP, NMC absolutely does this as well. The cell voltage fluctuates wildly during driving as the internal impedance of the cell causes varying voltage drops under varying load and really can't be used for charge estimation very much at all while driving. In fact, even once the car is parked, NMC systems can't just immediately look at the cell voltage to recalibrate the current accumulator that tracks charge. Not only do cell impedances have time-dependent components that take minutes or even hours to stop exhibiting small voltage drops, but cells exhibit all sorts of irritating effects that temporarily change the cell voltage, such as hysteresis and other history dependent effects. These effects tend to go away over time (and faster when it's not freezing cold). So for NMC the car wants to be placed at 100% occasionally, and left there for at least 6 hours or so, and preferably not too much below room temperature. This will allow more accurate recalibration of the accumulator, and more accurate balancing. Now the actual algorithms are very complex, the car will get progressively more confidence that it understands where the charge level stands as the cells rest more and more, so even while driving the current accumulator would be updated if it disagreed wildly with the cell voltage, and the convergence just gets better and better if you give it more time with no current draw at a steeper part of the cell curve. [oh and it really should be plugged in for this so that the battery doesn't have to support ancillary equipment, and really has no load on it for those 6+ hours] One last bonus point, not so much about delivered range but about range estimates. Although slightly sketchy feeling, it's actually also helpful to discharge an NMC car to low charge levels, where the voltage curve bends down, for the same reason of estimation accuracy. (It doesn't need to be 0%, but say below 15%-20%). Probably true of LFP too but no first hand experience with that. The same as near 100%, the charge/voltage curve is steeper here and the car gets a better idea about what's going on. Again, the car the needs to sit there for at least 6 hours or so and not be too cold to "rest" the cells and let their voltages precisely settle. This is ideally done in close proximity to the 100% "rest" described above(like the previous day or the next day). Once these two "rests" have happened the battery management system now has a very, very good estimate of the total capacity from 0% to 100%. It doesn't have to extrapolate too far, since it's just recently been near 0% and 100%, and thanks to the steep curve at the ends it knew exactly where it was! This allows the system to update the estimated amp-hour capacity of each cell group with confidence, and so better know how much juice it actually can hold. Again this won't give more actual delivered range, the car stops driving when the battery voltage of the lowest performing cell/group hits the low voltage cutoff no matter what percentage is displayed. But if you don't want to ever drive below 10%, and the estimate is off and pessimistic, you might be leaving range on the table by driving to a faulty estimate. Or even worse, if the car never ever sees low charge levels and has a really badly erroneous and optimistic estimate, you might believe you have another 10% left to make that last 30 miles of the trip, and be stranded 10 miles out. It's really hard to get a car into this state, but if you only ever let the battery see the range 60%-80% and never outside of that, it's possible. That's only a 3.3% range estimation error in a 300 mile battery pack but 10 miles is a big deal if the car stops driving.
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