Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs"
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Center piece is there to keep the coupling from collapsing, easier to make it a separate part, than the make the more expensive mould, that you would need to have the polymer injection work, and not fill it with the green damper as well. Solid center on the mould to hold the part in place for the second run, making alignment easier for the robotic arm placing it in position. Likely made on a fully robotic plant, so as to keep consistency, and only a few workers who take the finished parts, do a final fettling and QC check, then place it in the bag, seal it, and apply the label for it.
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My father had a garage in Central Africa. He had a customer who would send his Citroen 900 miles, on the back of a heavy duty truck, for every service. Truck needed because the roads in the wet season (half the year) were impassable for any passenger vehicle, even the Deux Cheval, with it's impressive off road handling. You are not going to drive when the mud is deeper than the height of the vehicle, and going off road involved a few axes to remove the trees, and possibly blasting as well, for the more obstinate ironwood and other hard wood trees. Dry season you has dry rutted road, which is why so much went via rail. Freight in very cheap, deadheading on the cars coming in to load up on copper anodes for export. Now they go via truck, and come down to South Africa to get to port.
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Diesel oil in a petrol engine is fine, the extra detergent will remove a lot off sludge and varnish off the engine, though you would be advised to do a second change of oil and filter after a short interval, probably around 300 to 500 miles, as the oil filter will be full of all the sludge and junk removed if this is the first time. Lots of farmers only keep one oil on the farm for all vehicles, and it will be for the diesel engines, the rest get the exact same oil. Knew one who when we looked into the cover that top end looked like it was barely out of the factory, despite the vehicle, VW Golf, having been driven for over 200 000km already, and it had been getting farm oil changes only for the last 3 years or so, being a second hand vehicle bought for the son, and had come with a lot of sludge in it. 20W50 was the oil needed, but all got the same SAE30 HD3 diesel oil, that arrived there in 55 gallon drums.
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Had a similar thing, except the refill was a blend of colas into the tank, to get enough to get to the shop down the hill, where water was available. Sad thing was that there was an urgent "DO This NOW" recall for the hoses, and the vehicle had been at the dealer for a month already for other things ( minor things, like oil leaks, seat failures, failed electronic modules), but the urgent recall was not done, despite the hoses having been sent already to do it. You know you have a lemon when the dealership people thought i worked there, because i dropped it off so often, and also that it had it's own demarcated parking bay, right by the office in the workshop, right at the front of the long rows of Freelanders, all stripped, awaiting new engines and transmissions to arrive.
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Yes, and the 70 plus reading is probably from a failed pressure transducer that lost a bond wire off the MEMS sensor, giving a more than full scale high output, which the ECM interprets as over 70PSI, as that is the full scale range it has. Tiny little 3mm by 3mm silicon sensor in there, made from 2 wafers that were bonded together under high vacuum and heat, and with the middle having a small cavity etched in the silicon, and on top a set of diffused strain gauges that measure the flex of the silicon, plus a diode that is used to compensate for temperature.
Absolute, so the cavity is a vacuum, otherwise the ones meant for gauge pressure have the bottom silicon wafer have a hole etched through to allow connection to the other side of the thin diaphragm, and these then get bonded to a reference port. Yes a fab that costs billions of dollars to build, and almost as much to operate, but the sensors coming out are in the cents price each, due to the massive volumes made. Make the sensor a little larger and you can integrate the entire electronic system on it as well, and by making the membrane thinner you make a MEMS microphone, that can be placed in a phone, and give you a complete microphone and conversion electronics, giving direct to digital output, only needing 3 connections to the outside, and capable of handling from a whisper to a scream.
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Yes, did my drivers with a Datsun 680 pick up, with column shift, all 4 speed and reverse on the tree, and with the full Nautilus package, of no power steering and drums all round. Then owned a VW Beetle, same thing, just gearshift on the floor. Currently drive manual as well, simpler to maintain, no trans fluid to get dirty and die, and a clutch is cheap as well.
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Yes a much better option over a 100A relay, that will both not be rated for full time operating, and also as they normally come with always being able to remove the key in the off position, it is easy to see when the key is in use, and also have a convenient way to disable the system when not in use. Though if you are putting in the deep cycle batteries a much better option is to get a dual charge controller, and leave them always in circuit and charging when the truck is running, so you will both never have them not get a charge, but also they cannot discharge through the truck itself if the main battery is flat for some reason. 150A dual charge controller, that attaches in the lead out of the alternator, and gives 2 heavy duty feeds, one per battery, will work much better, and less problems. Will still be a good idea to have a disconnect switch there though, inside the box, just in case, and also a 120A fuse in the battery lead for protection. Car audio can supply all these parts, just beware of the cheap ones with CCA wire leads.
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Yes exactly that, granite floor tile (not reconstituted quartz stone, but the real cut out of a mountain slab, and checked for it being optically flat) on a plywood base, and it works for me as a good enough for the stuff I do block. Got a second one just in case, that is still not used, but there are 2 granite offcuts, counter top reconstituted stone, that I use for a mouse pad. Big, heavy, works well with optical mice, and does not move, plus easy to clean. A third gravestone offcut, mostly polished before it cracked, got repurposed, along with a dial indicator stand I got cheap, as a microscope stand. Reminds me of the optical test benches, which used a massive granite block beam for the frame, for rigidity and temperature stability.
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