Comments by "SeanBZA" (@SeanBZA) on "Rainman Ray's Repairs" channel.

  1. The sticker is not, just the refusal of warranty service based on the removal of the sticker, or damage to it. Heat tabs are not going to be disclaimed if damaged, but the claim will be disclaimed because there is no proof you did not overheat the unit, while the internal damage is consistent with overheating it.
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  2. Drop gearbox and engine complete, only have to undo cables, coolant and drive axles. Much less work then to separate engine, unless you want to leave the trans in the vehicle, in which case you can get engine out from the top, after a lot more stripping of it.
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  3. Do it half, do it on the cheap, do it at least twice, plus likely this time they will have to approve the replacement of the other side, plus of course new seals, and new chains, guides and tensioners.
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  4.  @TheBry_Guy  Yes but you probably will want to only put a few bucks in, to get a quarter tank, and then try again.
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  5.  @MrCarCrazy  True, but they will send him to BMW, who in turn will send him to the one dealer who deals with these types of exotic cars. Yes there are dealerships and independants who deal with them, but likely Ray is the one local, and the owner really wants the AC to work in Florida summer, because otherwise he will be cooked inside the can.
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  6.  @spaceflight1019  Used to use a speciality cleaner in the military, it would, with a new can, spray at least 10m away, though for wasp control it was always better to also have a flick of the BIC before spraying, so that you immediately converted the wasps to walks, and after 2 seconds of the flame they were no longer mobile, and cooked in the shell. Same for the nest, burnt to a crisp.
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  7.  @MonkeyJedi99  Very likely one is to the transmission, and the reason there are 2 is because the one section on the trans was put back incorrectly, it likely should have been between the trans and the mounting, not the crossmember.
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  8. Magnetic viewing film, green and shows black where the field is.
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  9.  @FireStriker_  90% of the time that 11A fuse gets replaced with a foil or wire, because they are $30 each from Fluke. You can buy similar rated fuses for cheaper, but not really going to be under $5 each for a proper rated fuse, as it has to also be able to withstand the breaking current at full rated voltage as well. The one in that meter of Ray's is either the jumper wire version, or a fake one.. Either way needs to be replaced with the proper one, and the shop needs to keep a few spare ones on hand as well.
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  10.  @Pinki-77  Yes but it has been started and run for a week, if alternator was not charging that battery would be dead by now.
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  11. For the piston tops get a old tupperware or generic container, and cut a hole the size of suction into it, then use as a clear cover.
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  12. The rubber insert is a pain, so I keep an old long plug lead top, originally for a GWM pickup, which is long enough to reach, and it works well to insert the new plugs and remove them once loose. Also acts as guide, so it will not get cross threaded, and grips tight enough to thread them down all the way before the socket does the final work.
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  13.  @ednorton47  The bastardised new Beetle did, basically a VW Polo that was left near the fire too long and had all the panels melt and bubble.
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  14. Lots of water normally.....
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  15. Note the rods are numbered, and they are in the wrong order now.......
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  16. No varnish there, those are just plain nichrome strip elements, and the smoke is the burning off of all the dust and oil vapour that has been deposited from being in a garage where this is in the air, and where you also breathe it as well. Got a cheaper one, one setting non adjustable, and it too will smoke after 10 seconds of use, which is the duty cycle to test a battery, to emulate a typical starter load and time.
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  17.  @Wese28  I got that, though it does have a lot of Nickel and Cobalt in it as well.
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  18. One with small gap was the dropped one. Plus not ignition coils, but plug leads. Rotor you just clean it up, along with the cap, and a new set of leads are all you need. Rotor does not have a resistor, it is inside the cap instead, so it really only needs changing if breaking down to the shaft.
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  19. Had the same with a roll pin, got it out, eventually, and instead of putting it back put a split pin in instead. Not much stress on the pin, and much easier to remove when it has to come out again.
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  20. Top cover bolts are called shoulder bolts, or are also called die guide bolts, as the most common use for them is as die guides for plastic casting machines, to align the parts of a multipart die during use, so the plastic parts end up with a minimal seam.
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  21. I guess his parts store is local to him, and has deliveries out 3 times a day, so as to allow this. By me that would be a guy on a bike, something small, around 80cc, and with a driver who occasionally uses the road to drive on. As we joke, the biggest biker gang in the country is the 60-60 gang, which delivers for the one nationwide chain. My friend knows all the drivers in her area by name, and they greet her all over as well. They get around $1 per delivery, so do around 60 deliveries a day, but do not own the bikes, so maintenance is not their problem, though fuel is.
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  22. They are there to reduce steering wheel kick back when you have a wheel drop into a hole, or slip off a rock off road, by limiting the rate at which the steering can turn. Keeps you from having a broken hand if the wheel kicks back. The one on the top does the same, in standard configuration, just needs extra help when you have the lift kit installed, so the 2 on the bottom are there.
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  23. No you did not miss it. Those new bolts going with the old hitch...
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  24. Only thing that really mucks up a compressor stage is ingesting a large bird. Small ones just vanish, pigeons sort of either come out as a puff of feathers, or just smoke, depending on where they hit on a bypass engine, and on a smaller turbine they just sort of vanish, leaving a smear on the first stage
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  25.  @BigBadWolfe63  Last one I changed was nice and easy, just a little hard to get the lock ring out without the right tool, but the large water pump pliers worked well there.
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  26.  @shakerman55  Yes, and likely not covered under warranty either, as it would be classed as deliberate damage.
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  27.  @calyodelphi124  VW has one, and it is loud and annoying.
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  28. Got a crow foot spanner that is perfect for that, fits oxygen sensors, and has enough grip points to grab the sensor irrespective, and small enough to go anywhere, but strong enough that the spanner on the end works to break it loose.
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  29. He dumps it dry every time he uses it, along with empty out the catch canister into the used fluid drum. That way the remaining fluid stays clean in the hoses all round.
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  30. Same with a Mirage F1 and a Golf GTI. Pilot also did give a fighting chance, and used regular take off power, and did not go full throttle and through the gate to full afterburner either. The one with a Mikoyan design engine, sort of "borrowed" from a Mig 23, was capable of a lot more than the stock Atar engine as well
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  31. That engine was always known as the 3 litre fuel eater........
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  32. What dealer, likely there are none that half of the USA, unless he wants to send it via container across the USA.
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  33. Pentastar is a great engine, at least ofr the parts department, who can easily supply you with all the new parts to make it work again, and then soon blow itself up again.
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  34. Had the same kind of hand damage, so on with a bandage, finish putting the window in, and then off to the doctor to get the 6 stitches in it, after consulting with my neighbour nurse, who told me i was a silly fool. Had to agree with her though, because she was right.
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  35. Having come close to clocking one, yes that is a good thing. though that was the least worry of that night, further on came across a hippo, and definitely did not want to be involved with that. Emergency stop, and a very rapid reverse, because a hippo is quite capable of biting thorugh sheet metal of a car, or even biting through the radiator as well. Hitting not good either, 2 tons plus of by now very unhappy critter sitting on your lap, and they are, despite the massive bulk, both very fast and very agile. Elephants give them a wide berth, along with rhinos, and crocodiles, and all of those are very capable of defending themselves.
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  36.  @MummaBear  Well, in for a storm tonight. This one left 20cm of rain in a few hours during the weekend when it hit land, likely to be doing the same today. Lots of trees down already with the winds of it coming in.
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  37. And then he sends it right back in drier than a temperance bar. And at full power as well.
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  38. Well VW is second most popular vehicle in most of the world, after Toyota.
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  39. Oh yes, please remember to get your shop a Recoil/ Helicoil set, with a pack of 50 M6x1mm by 1.5 length inserts, because you will be needing it for the Rubasoo timing belt covers, as those little M6 bolts get stripped out by the dealerships going in with the ugga dugga method, and tear the threads loose. Done a good number of Recoil inserts into either aluminium alloy valve covers, or on VW carburettors, where the centre bolt comes stripped, and there is only room to do the Recoil insert. Drill down deep, and put in 2 of the 6mm inserts, to get enough thread engagement to keep it from stripping out, and clean the hole, plus use green oil resistant threadlock on both insert and the stud.
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  40. Because the manufacturer gets one fewer oil change they are required to do under warranty, and they also know the vehicle will be traded in at a big discount for a new one, right at that time, so will be either exported or scrapped. Export it likely will fail soon after, but again not the manufacturer problem, out of warranty, and then they get to sell a new engine. The less oil changes in warranty the lower total cost of ownership they can prove, so they will go for 20 000km or 25 000km soon, knowing full well the engines will self destruct typically at around 200 000km, outside of warranty, which is typically 120 000km or 5 years by me, though some only are 80 000km or 3 years for some models. Only manufacturer that offered a 1 million km 12 year warranty is Chery, on the top range hybrids, wonder how that is going to turn out.
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  41. Gave up on welding Ford manifolds, as they all crack at the same point, so started to braze them up instead. Less heat, and braze is a lot more flexible than the cast iron, so the darn things no longer cracked. Plus did not have to remove that bloody thing again, saving a lot of hassle on gaskets, gun gum and the possible warping of the casting.
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  42.  @bobbykozak6032  Works well, and braze adheres to cast iron well if it is clean, and you use a decent flux. Yes it will melt if the exhaust gets hot enough, but running a cast manifold at red heat is already a serious fault in the engine. Did see that once on an Atlantis diesel, we guessed that truck, with the coolest part of the exhaust being the tip at dull red, with some really nice Mach diamonds, would not make it to the top of the hill. Turbo was white hot, bright enough to actually cast a shadow in the twilight, and was visible to us from 2km away as a bright light. Engine was breathing well, and no shortage of fuel either, though that turbo was likely also acting like a combustion chamber of engine oil.
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  43. With an impact it acts as a long torsion spring, so the head flexes the shaft, but none of the impact is applied to the socket end. Hand you can wind to compensate for it, but the impact only acts to turn in small increments, so if the flex is such that it cannot click to the next position it will simply wind up and release the energy every cycle, and not apply to the driven end. Torque is still the same, just that the impacts that are applied are damped down in flexing the shaft. Using long ones, and a deeply buried socket, I have gotten to a quarter turn of flex, before the bolt actually got enough torque on it to break loose.
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  44. He did, testing in the non start positions either side of the range for a brief moment, though I would guess foot was firmly on the brake as well.
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  45. Should always use anti seize on exhaust fasteners, the next one working on it will thank you, and with your good results that can be you.
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  46.  @MonkeyJedi99  Our hanger heaters were large, took 8000l of jet A1, and were made in France. But never needed, because the record low was 8C. If it was hot then best place to be was the LOX bunker, which was always refreshingly cold, despite the good ventilation. But most of the base was buried anyway. The fake visible base for Keyhole observation was a few hundred metres away, with a crew who moved things when the sattelites were not in view.
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  47. And it is a Manuel.......
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  48. Would have put a blob of sealer on the back of those 5 screws, just in case you need to take it apart again, and so you know you were the last to work on it. Yes the lift kit without all the moving parts fixed, a common thing, and the same with the lowering kits that are a half job.
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  49. Yes the manufacturer warranty is worth it, aftermarket is cheaper, because they exclude all known failures on the vehicle. If the trans is known to fail, like a CVT is, they will exclude it in the small print, and claim any damage due to it is also excluded as well.
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  50.  @EudesRJ  Saw a fluke 77 the council arctricians attempted to measure the voltage on the primary side of a transformer, and applied 11kV AC to the input side. Meter stopped working, and the inside of the case was nicely coated with a thin film of copper, evaporated from all the PCB traces on the board of the meter below the display. Display still worked, placed in another meter to test, as that one had a cracked display, from the same group of low IQ techs, and the 9V battery was also placed there, and was fine. 11A fuse was the only intact fuse, the other 440mA fuse got blown, with the rest of the carnage, as the plasma arced through the inside of the case. However nothing escaped blast wise, very tough cases they have. Meter leads were a lot shorter from the arc as they got close, well cooked and in any case they had already broken the probes off, using the bare cores of the wire instead.
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