Comments by "Oblithian" (@Oblithian) on "Engineering Explained" channel.

  1. hmmm that 5 star scale is deceptive because it is non-linear. *...And each category has a different meaning. Thanks!
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  2. The same power figure as 20 years ago, but at higher relative cost. Does, it have two doors? Check. Is it RWD? Check. Is it a straight-6? Check. Is it turbocharged? Check. Is the HP 320? Check. Is it Red? Check. Then it's a supra...
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  3. I was considering buying one, because it seems awesome, then remembered <1990's vehicles...
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  4. in terms of pedal operation strategy, Porsche's is better. It gives the driver total choice in the vehicles operation. (single pedal operation limits your ability to control the vehicle fully, as do most electronic assists) Battery strategy, it does not give full choice but... At worst effectively you end up in a better place after a period of time; at best you are operating your tesla in the same way anyway. Now vehicle weight and efficiency is something they need to work on but, when driving the car, I would rather have the porsche.
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  5. Nah, just get the right turbo.... or twin-charged.
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  6. ...yep
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  7. I was hoping the circle was indicating the space over which the same amount of traction is obtained (that you might know how far is a reasonable margin of error to avoid overcorrection), or how much snow builds up as your car slides and when is the best moment to recover as a result... or something bizarre but informative. oh well... I guess a comparison of friction on lower friction surfaces is helpful to someone who has little experience with weather.
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  8. Sweet, makes sense.
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  9.  @jacobjeckles1283  from what I have heard, that is the case.
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  10. BMW's engines are usually decent (electronics...). Toyota has lost a lot of reliability since the new millenium, oil consumption being one of the more mild annoyances.
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  11. Do you have any formulas for determining ideal exhaust diameter to velocity? Perhaps a self-calculating excel sheet. That will populate a graph.
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  12.  @TheV8Pumpkin  no It's really not
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  13. I was told that on dry roads (not frosted or icy) winter tires are always worse, nice to see your testing had the same results. That said, I think you should have used all-seasons as the test.
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  14. I would say that the "benefits" of a flat engine are not significant enough to justify the downsides.
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  15. I find this list insufficient, I could not feel comfortable sending someone off to buy a car with just this.
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  16. RX-3 next
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  17. You missed excessive brake wear and transmission wear because they don't generally go back in gear smoothly.
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  18. No problem, sorry that wasn't a specific answer (as I am not certain which wear fastest, google will know). I don't go more than twice without a replacement or resurface, but that's because I don't have a caliper or micrometer to measure the wear. (Every car has an OEM recommendation for maximum wear).
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  19. Excellent captions.
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  20. Engineering Explained So If I recall correctly, combining this technique with ITBs would counteract their downside (of having benefits only for a limited rpm range)?
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  21. ....
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  22. Couldn't you use the hand brake like a steep hill start? or is that even harder on the car?
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  23. I would like to see the stats on caliper location for front vs rear vs awd performance cars.
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  24. different molecular structures of carbon? or perhaps the pad to rotor combination?
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  25. That makes more sense
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  26. So Toyota lightly hamstrung the BRZ version.
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  27. I thought about buying one that year, and enjoyed the test-drive, but where I live VW dealerships mark up all of their vehicles well above msrp, so >$31,000 for a beetle was a bit absurd when I could get a v6 mustang for as little as $23,999, a Genesis coupe for $28,000, or a 370z for around the same as the beetle.
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  28. I was just thinking about dirt and rust (in terms of longevity).
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  29. Interesting
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  30. Testing tires sounds awesome.
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  31. I have only needed the ebrake one time. In San Francisco, where my girlfriend's little accent had insufficient power and would stall immediately even with full throttle so the e-brake let me build some power without negative momentum.
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  32. Mostly that last part. Cars that warm up slower need that extra time in extreme cold because you will end up running it at high rpms at some point before it reaches operating temperature... unless you live somewhere flat... with low speed limits, and you have a car with close gear ratios and a lot of low-end torque.
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  33. I live at the bottom of a large and steep hill with a decently high speed limit. When it's -20C or colder most cars I have had take close to 10 min to warm (vs the 15 at idle). Then there's the fact that other parts a of your car start freezing up below -25c so it is also safer to let it warm.
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  34. That would depend on the duration, track, your speed, the weight of the car, the size of the rotors/pads, and of course your abilities/braking habits.
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  35. Yeah sorry, I personally couldn't tell you without at knowing more. But my best suggestion is to measure (or find the specs) a set of new brakes, Then run them twice and measure what you have left (then do the math).
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  36. But full flushes, most auto shops don't bleed the brakes and only replace what's in the reservoir.
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  37. RC-F or LC? Same platform, same engine, different prices, different styling.
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  38. So the most efficient would be a hcci opposed piston engine?
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  39. But how is hp affected? By the 4%?
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  40. Bolt on exhausts, so much easier. No cutting, no welding, no clamps. The new exhaust sounds pretty good.
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  41. I don't think filters can last 20,000km. The filter media seems to degrade fairly rapidly.
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  42. I don't know about ultra premium, but I have had bad luck with Penzoil. Quaker State and Castrol seem to function better over the life of the oil. Speaking of, could you do a test for the various oil brands?
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  43. Yeah, oil and air cooled engines like that would heat the external air more, when oil is present (as you mentioned). The oil isn't there to cool the block, but to cool and lubricate the internals... which would eventually expand till seizing. That said, the engines are built (in general) more rugged than the typical car engine to handle little maintenance, running with low oil, and being left out in the elements.
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  44. I was disappointed with the original. I will have to try the new one if it's decent.
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  45. Completely agree about the ideal gear ratios.
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  46. They say satelites are better, but shouldn't a well calibrated G-meter on a timer be more accurate than data being sent many Kms to some old satelites (doing many things at once) and back?
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  47. You should clarify the "I don't recommend a warm up" since it very obviously (though perhaps to the casual owner) does need to at sub zero temperatures.
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  48. Exactly
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  49. Too bad dyno testing is so expensive, the power and torque gains would be nice to know.... nvm you commented on that at the end.
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  50. Indeed, because math.
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